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No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

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78 granada
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No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #1 by 78 granada » Tue Sep 20, 2016 8:10 pm

So the old Granada is back together and purrs like a kitten - no leaks, no misses, all good. The other day I had enough time on the new top end so I decided to run it up to 4000 rpm. Oil light came on and the top started knocking loud. Pulled the valve cover and the distributor. Everything looked visibly good on the valve train. The hex drive for the oil pump was intact and the distributor drive gear was perfect and tight. I used a drill on the pump and watched the oil flow to the top end also perfect. So it put it back together and installed a mechanical oil guage. Started and ran beautiful and took it for a 30 minute cruise. Then tonight I took it up to 4 grand again. Top end rattled and the oil gauge went to ZERO!

What the heck am I missing here? I don't want to wreck this thing. Is it possible that the oil pump pressure valve is sticking open? That or head gasket? I see a tiny bit of moisture between the head and the deck, just barely, but there is no oil in the coolant. You can imagine how much I would like to hear you guys thoughts on this. Wish me luck!!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #2 by CNC-Dude » Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:02 pm

Well, you said it was back together. Why not start from the beginning and tell us what you did so we can see if anything jumps out at us.
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #3 by xctasy » Wed Sep 21, 2016 12:18 am

Before you do anything, you need to check the oil quality, so if you've decided to change it, keep the orginal oil.


Two things.


1st. Oil starvation due to windage, and inadequate bleed back. Happens with some kinds of edge oriface hydraulic lifters in a 250 with its ability for its almost 4" stroke engine to totally airate a whole sump of oil into thousands of tiny globolar spheres.


Over fill the sump one quart, and reprime. Take it to 4000 rpm again.


If you've chaged oil weight, or up rated the oil pump, or had a rebuild, there is a possiablity of this happening.


Its why the Aussies did such a huge trade in custom engine sumps for upgraded in line sixes.


2 nd . The pump pickup screen should be new. If its not, it won't be anodised, and some running in particulates might have clogged it.

Get a sample of the oil. Take it for an ASTM ash test. It'll tell you if you have excessive particulates. The amount of metal in suspension is indexed against a standard amount.
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FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #4 by thesameguy » Wed Sep 21, 2016 3:50 pm

Is there a bypass valve on the oil pump on these cars? In others I've worked on there is a simple valve which prevents the pump from overpressuring the system - sometimes the spring holding the valve closed is damaged and after pressure gets to Xpsi the valve opens, bleeding off pressure long before it should.

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #5 by thesameguy » Wed Sep 21, 2016 3:55 pm

...

78 granada
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #6 by 78 granada » Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:57 pm

All good stuff. I did the top end only and added adjustable rockers without the bleedback on the shaft. Milled the head .060. No PCV just breathers. Oil pump is original with 44K on it. Oil is Driven 10W-40 and about 1/2 quart high. I am not familiar with the style of overpressure valve the pump may have but it seems odd to me that once the pressure goes to zero it stays there, absolute zero. Whatever causes this happens very quickly. I gave the oil time to drain back down but pressure didn't come back in about 5 seconds of run time. didn't want to push it!!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #7 by drag-200stang » Wed Sep 21, 2016 5:37 pm

Try a different brand oil filter, may be collapsing at rpm, "more flow". The rice paper they use is cheap now days.
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #8 by thesameguy » Wed Sep 21, 2016 5:41 pm

What you describe is consistent with some modes of failure for the pressure relief valve. Sometimes you've got a weak or inappropriately sized spring that will open too early but then close once pressure drops, but sometimes the valve, bore, or spring is damaged in such a way that once it's open it will remain open until there is zero oil flow (engine stopped) and sometimes even until luck or gravity causes it to fall back in place. If you google "oil pressure relief valve" you'll see a million examples of what these things look like but only a few failure modes. Since you know the drive is good, the pump is good, and the fill is good (since it works consistently under 4000rpm) you're looking (it seems) for "failure after Xpsi" and that screams PRV. :)

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #9 by 78 granada » Wed Sep 21, 2016 8:10 pm

Here is what is weird too. Both times this happened, which are the only two times I had the revs up, I had to prime with a drill to get the pressure back even after it sat for a while. Now I am not saying that if I had let it run the pressure wouldn't have eventually come back - didn't want to risk it to find out!! But as far as the pump and relief valve are concerned, what would be the difference between running the motor or using the drill? What the heck does it care? The good news, sounds great at an idle and I'll use less gas that way!! Ha!

I don't have a manual that gives the recommended oil weight? I would sure hate to pull the motor, change the pump and have it happen again due to windage. Xctasy you definitely sound like you've been there for sure! But at the same time I haven't changed the bottom end. Would a stock motor straight from the factory lose pressure from frothing up the oil? This is one of those lay awake at night things right?!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #10 by thesameguy » Thu Sep 22, 2016 6:35 pm

What does the oil pressure gauge say at 3999rpm? Can you replicate that pressure using a drill to drive the pump?

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #11 by xctasy » Thu Sep 22, 2016 6:56 pm

78 granada wrote:Here is what is weird too. Both times this happened, which are the only two times I had the revs up, I had to prime with a drill to get the pressure back even after it sat for a while. Now I am not saying that if I had let it run the pressure wouldn't have eventually come back - didn't want to risk it to find out!! But as far as the pump and relief valve are concerned, what would be the difference between running the motor or using the drill? What the heck does it care? The good news, sounds great at an idle and I'll use less gas that way!! Ha!

I don't have a manual that gives the recommended oil weight? I would sure hate to pull the motor, change the pump and have it happen again due to windage. Xctasy you definitely sound like you've been there for sure! But at the same time I haven't changed the bottom end. Would a stock motor straight from the factory lose pressure from frothing up the oil? This is one of those lay awake at night things right?!


No, its not the frothing up, they have an anti foaming agent. Its cranshaft windage. You don't pick it up, a gague isn't instant, so by the time you see zero oil pressure, it has been happening for 6 seconds or more.


On my 81 200 Mustang and 84 250 Falcon. Both thrashed within an inch of there lives at various times, the sump had to be filled up to avoid pump screen zero oil pressure when taken up past 3500 in hard cornering conditions. At 95 mph in my 2.73:1 axled Stang, and a lot slower but in very hard driving in my 84 XE.



Are you running a Fram filter, like the HM8A High Mileage?

What oil weight.

The basic check is the mounting of the pump, and that there isn't particulates somewhere.

X shells aren't so bad to drop a sump on, even with all the bits you find on low mount 250's in a Granny.


Fine ground grey metallics in the oil, then I'd be worried, but you gotta physically check now if you can. Its not a full motor pull. Invovled for even de-emissoned Granada's since there's SOOO much stuff in an around the engine, but

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #12 by 78 granada » Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:27 pm

The oil is 10w-40 conventional. Priming with a drill holds 60 psi steady. The oil filter isn't a fram but it isn't a premium like a Wix either. The first filter I pulled after the break in dumped out perfectly clean - no metal, as did the oil in the pan. When the car is going down the road at 2500 rpm the pressure is nice and steady and predictable as it heats up. As you say I will try overfilling the crankcase but man, didn't anyone ever rev any of the millions of stock engines in these cars? Why wasn't windage an issue? I wonder how many times I can test this without hurting the motor?? As always - really interesting and thank you guys!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #13 by xctasy » Thu Sep 22, 2016 8:55 pm

Its like this...if you put adjustables on, you might have the preload right, you might not.


Ford engines are designed to give priority to the lifters, and if you use too lighter grade oil, it'll over scavenge. Adding oil doesn't increase windage, it increases the stage in the base of the sump, stopping the pickup running dry. Stock oil grade for the 250 is 20W/40, I think.


Are your lifters the stock ones? There are four types of 875 lifter. Get it wrong, and you'll end up with the lifters siphyoning off too much Texas Tee...


For istance, AMSOIL doesn't go back before 1980, and there is no 4.1 Granada L or C code, just a D code 4.2 V8 for which they now recommend 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ATMQT-EA).

I'd go to 20W/40.
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XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #14 by JackFish » Fri Sep 23, 2016 12:14 pm

78 granada wrote: didn't anyone ever rev any of the millions of stock engines in these cars? Why wasn't windage an issue?

No, these engines were not designed to rev much past 3500 rpm. Think tractor motor. My I6 diesel redlines above 3000rpm.
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #15 by chad » Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:02 pm

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78 granada
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #16 by 78 granada » Fri Sep 23, 2016 5:41 pm

I could drive this car like it ought to be drove all day long and there would never be a problem. But when I started the project I was looking to build a cute little bracket car. 1/4 mile will have it see 4K but probably not much more. To be honest 4K sounded like a 'tractor' motor gone wild! Still, I would like to know that everything is OK with it. The book says 5 quarts of oil with a new filter. I am above the full mark but the filter probably doesn't hold a full quart either. I will see if I can get my oil in 20W-40 and then add some and try it. Like I say I'm not like a kid trying to blow things up!! Oh yea, I plead ignorant on the lifters. I bought B-2083s from Hylift Johnson. Did a visual on the height and diameter but didn't know to check any further. Maybe I got that wrong?

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #17 by drag-200stang » Fri Sep 23, 2016 6:35 pm

There are some guys and a gal that run their 250s a lot higher than 4,000 see what they are doing.
I ran my na tri power 200 to 7,500 with a super high volume pump and had no problem. But the pan held 8 quarts with a wind-age tray and a trap door.
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #18 by CNC-Dude » Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:26 pm

78 granada wrote:Here is what is weird too. Both times this happened, which are the only two times I had the revs up, I had to prime with a drill to get the pressure back even after it sat for a while.


I think this may be the best clue as to what is happening!
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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #19 by 78 granada » Sat Sep 24, 2016 1:42 pm

Just changed the filter to a Wix and added the oil I lost in the old filter. Then added 1 extra quart. Warmed it up good and took it down the road increasing to 4K RPM. Oil pressure dropped out completely to zero. Shut her off and coasted into the driveway.

I need to wait until I cool down, but I do not have room in my one stall garage for another winter to pull this and tear it down. I contracted a pole barn to be built so I can continue my hobby in the winter but the local zoning office says I can not build a pole barn! Get that, I have 4 acres surrounded on three sides by hundreds of acres of farm land and I can't build a pole barn!

Anyway I have another bit of advice, to not reuse a Felpro head gasket - I've got anti freeze visible in the seam between the deck and head.

So, looks like one of you guys might be getting a good deal real soon....Going once....going twice?

Edit: Just read this again - I guess it was kind of a rant!! I primed the motor again with the drill and got 60 psi on the gauge and held it there trying to replicate the failure but no go. When I am driving and the pressure fails it never reads above 60. I was hoping it would fail with the drill so I would know it was the pump.

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #20 by xctasy » Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:48 pm

78 granada wrote:I could drive this car like it ought to be drove all day long and there would never be a problem. But when I started the project I was looking to build a cute little bracket car. 1/4 mile will have it see 4K but probably not much more. To be honest 4K sounded like a 'tractor' motor gone wild! Still, I would like to know that everything is OK with it. The book says 5 quarts of oil with a new filter. I am above the full mark but the filter probably doesn't hold a full quart either. I will see if I can get my oil in 20W-40 and then add some and try it. Like I say I'm not like a kid trying to blow things up!! Oh yea, I plead ignorant on the lifters. I bought B-2083s from Hylift Johnson. Did a visual on the height and diameter but didn't know to check any further. Maybe I got that wrong?





No, the advice was wrong. You don't need to redrill the rocker shaft on and engine that doesn't need lost of oil to the rocker gear.

Period.

Just asking for trouble. Not your fault, the evidence has been around on every engine build, the feedback is that when you do anything at all to increase the stock non adjustable 250 or 200 rocker gear, you cause a potential oil starvation issue down below.

A combination of light oil weight, White Box HT 2083 lifters that you can't be sure arn't defective, and the normal issues which also afflict the similar Ford FE and Cleveland style engines is likely to be your problem.


Go to HT 900 R lifters, and recheck your pushrods an adjusters at full lift. If the ball ends don't wor together, get another kind of pushrod, or have them die ground and linished to clear the rcker arms.

Check with Bob the Builder on what lifters he used in his 62 250 pickup Ranchero.

50 bucks outa do a change for you. I'm baking on lifter collapse.


Read these three posts

http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php ... ons/page-2
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36327

yellow terra rocker arm install tips, Post #1 by rbohm » Sun Aug 24, 2014 5:09 pm


When you install the yella-terra rocker arms you starve the distributor gear & camshaft gear of very needed lubrication.
To fix that condition the second & third lifters are on either side of the oil hole above the gears.
You can cut a .025" x .025" groove in those two lifters and that will flood the area with the necessary lubrication to prevent scoring of the gears.
http://i.imgur.com/eOBfvyU.jpg
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Re workig the oil to the top of the engine by restriction is quite okay, its not a 7000 to 9000 rpm 351 C or boss 302 race engine where strangled oil supply to the springs will kill valve springs...its basic prudence the Aussies used all the time.


I'd say there may be a problem with particals in the oil galleries, even for dillengent people who have carefully done the work. I'd add some ATF to your oil, and redo the lifters for 50 dollars. There is a 12o thou height difference between 300/351c lifters, although you can swap them, you just need to know what's the best set for your needs.

HT900R's are what I use.


Before you do, check with Will and Bob.

I'm thinking check the clearances on the oil pump gears need checking if there isn't instant oi pressure. Could be scored to heck.


There are a few issues gaskets being used on pump to block mating...you don't need askets, but you can fit them if you have an oil problem.

1bad6t1 had similar issues with his 170... sometimes Ford does stuff on engines which cause problems when you use White Box lifters.
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FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #21 by 78 granada » Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:21 pm

The drilling I did on the top end was to each rocker as recommended in the falcon handbook? I was not sure as to whether I really needed to because the rockers came presumably ready to go. But when I saw that I was just enlarging to the size of the stock rockers I though what the heck, give it a try. I went with the lifters from Hylift Johnson on the recommendation of Gary at RU - said the others are junk so I took his advice. Boy, V8s are a heck of a lot easier to build but still not as cool!!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #22 by 78 granada » Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:31 pm

I wonder if I can use a different rocker tower bolt for the oil feed end to reduce the amount to the top end or maybe it is restricted enough by the stock one? I guess if I tear this down I can get the HT 900R lifters and a new pump. Forgot to thank you for the advice!

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #23 by xctasy » Sun Sep 25, 2016 6:58 am

78 granada wrote:The drilling I did on the top end was to each rocker as recommended in the falcon handbook? I was not sure as to whether I really needed to because the rockers came presumably ready to go. But when I saw that I was just enlarging to the size of the stock rockers I though what the heck, give it a try. I went with the lifters from Hylift Johnson on the recommendation of Gary at RU - said the others are junk so I took his advice. Boy, V8s are a heck of a lot easier to build but still not as cool!!



No one can track and trace white box goods. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Lifters can drop oil pressure just like that.

Check the obvious meantime. 5/16" hex shaft length should be shorter than the US 200,

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798
alloydave wrote:....you will need an aussie oil pump drive if yours is buggered USA drives are
10mm [0.394"] too short -can cut down 351c drive but will leave 1 unhardened end.
..
cheer Dave


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11134

alloydave wrote:if you have a aussie 250 beware the american oil pump drive .I was supplied one off an american 250 for my wagon and there about 10mm to short for the aussie . I got to the stage when i was winding the motor over to get oil pressure for start up and couldnt get any ,the shaft would quite reach the bottom of the dissy. I think we have used cleveland v8 shafts in the past and just cut them down to size ,but this can leave you with one unhardened end .We went through all the stock of 250 drives at my local speed shop and found that they had been supplied the wrong drives in an order ,luckly i didnt start the motor with that drive or it could of got quite messy . :shock:

cheers dave


/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74715&p=574696#p574696
62Ranchero200 wrote:I assembled my 250 recently ... No oil pump drive shaft bushing. The shaft, which is shorter than the shaft on a 200, fits into the oil pump and the dist. shaft.

Thanks
Bob
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FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #24 by 78 granada » Sun Sep 25, 2016 9:39 am

Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #25 by 78 granada » Sun Sep 25, 2016 4:10 pm

Just to be clear the HT900R will fit my 78 250? Neither Jegs nor Summit show them as an application?

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #26 by RichCreations » Sun Sep 25, 2016 6:14 pm

78 granada wrote:Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?



Other then the old steel shim gaskets (which always leaked) no head gasket is "re-usable"

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Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #27 by xctasy » Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:10 pm

78 granada wrote:Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?


Any head gasket. The lovely old 22 thou D8 thin shim gasket was indeed the only re-usable gasket. No longer made...

The Appco Felpro Monotorque is what I use down here.

Vitor Reinz should have something similar for you.


78 granada wrote:Just to be clear the HT900R will fit my 78 250? Neither Jegs nor Summit show them as an application?


Yes, the lifter, it'll fit the block just like that...

:hmmm:

But the key thing is getting your car running with oil pressure, yes?


I've decided you'd better go back to having the B-2083 lifters checked, and if you've still got access to a stock hydraulic 3.3 or 4.1 rocker shaft for the same year as your head casting, I'd use it.

Talk with your supllier of the lifters, buy some 50 dollar new 2083's, and a good in service rocker shaft and old 250 stanard pushrods, and get the thing running again. Re bed in the new lifters, and check that oil pump again.

I'm certain, based on what you've said, that its just a simple lifter bleed down collpase, but yopu've said enough to concern me that the adjustable rocker shaft might be bleeding off to much oil as well.



The US 250 has a higher volume oil pump than the 144/170/200'S , and heavy duty crank, and lots of US style uprades in the block.

Down here, our log 200 and 250's from 1971 to 1976 didn't get the US 250 oil pump, and they don't recomend the cross flow High Volme pump because it gives the Log and 2v 250 heads way too much oil.


From what research I've done, I think Ford USA's engieers made an oil pump flow upgrade for 1969 onwards 250's.

I'd never use the unrestricted adjustable rocker shaft on a US 250, it will most likely take too much oil to the top of the engine.

I'm thinking that is your most likely problem.




Just to recap on what we do down here:

The HT 900 are all oil through 0.874 thou pushrod lifters.

I guess you don't want the roller rockers that come with that package.



Initally the HT 900R's or VL65R were Cleveland 2v and 4v hydraulic lifters only for cast in rocker or posi locked studs. The oil priority is only through a hollow pushrod.

In 1984, Yella Terra designed some extruded Roller rockers for the non cross flow 2V 250 and log heads, and was able to use the common FE and Cleveland rocker arm conversions with a special rocker shaft on a posi locked stud conversion.

Then, later on for our log and 2v 250 sixes, they made non roller rocker adjustables to reduce cost. As Chevrolet has found with the 1996 onwardsLS1's, roller rockers aren't needed on engines that only do 6600 rpm tops, with less than 300 pounds peak of the seat loads.

So this is the kit, but its 680 bucks Australian, and I guess its too Dollars X x X "cOST-A-LOT"


But it is a good kit. wsa111 has found that thiskit restricts blead back to the distributor shaft, and has issues, so that's why he suggests slot machining the lifters to bath the cam gear and distributor. In fact, there is an option of even drilling the distributor shaft too.

Anyway, the kit has some restrictions, but it uses the HT 900 lifter, GM Holden 186/XU1 202 cubic inch pushrods, and the common roller rocker shaft stud, without the roller tip rockers, but with the roller trunion at the stud. It has two meaty stud girdles to stop the whole shooting match from moving too.

Image

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You use a 186S or XU1 Torana pushrod which are common and easy to get, but then you have to run a the common Street Terra non roller tip 1.65:1 Extruded rocker like all non shaft mounted Fords. And its mini rocker shaft.

The lifter is found on millons of Fords since 1962...

x-flows from 1976 to 1992
1965 on 240/300's,
1969.5 to 1983 335 small and midland blocks,
1983 -1995 HSC 2300 and HSO 2500 in line fours,
1968 to 1997 385 Big blocks
Boss 302 Windsor and WCP aftermrket SVO and FRP "Clevo" blocks
And 1962 to 2002 Windsor SBF'S

And Yella Terra roller rocker conversion 200 and 250's above
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

78 granada
Registered User
Posts: 119
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:26 pm
Location: Michigan

Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #28 by 78 granada » Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:17 pm

Funny, I have the steel gasket I took off it sitting right here. Pretty cruddy but I cleaned it with a pad and oven cleaner. Almost sprayed it with copper and used it again but didn't have the guts, Ha!!

I would sure like to tackle this, one potential cause at a time, so I can say precisely what the root is. But then again I don't know how many times I am willing to run this thing out of oil in the process?

In theory, the new rocker assembly should not flow as much oil as the stock one. Rocker holes I drilled out to the valve stem are the same dia. as stock. But, the stock shaft has a flat along the bottom where the oil holes are - I believe this facilitates lubrication but the RAU unit I have does not have that flat - decreased flow. I get maximum oil pressure with the drill priming method. I watched this with the valve cover off and the oil was well returned to the sump.

My lifters are american made here in Michigan, not China, and not generic. I can't say that they are not collapsing for sure but they are fairly quiet and I do have them adjusted on the lose side if anything. They are brand new. Don't really know how to check them.....I guess I can get a new set for the money, what the heck.

If I put in a new OEM pump, go back to standard rockers, put in another set of brand new lifters and the oil pressure holds, I won't have a clue why. Funny, these hobbies chose us, we don't chose them!!!

RichCreations
Registered User
Posts: 397
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:39 pm

Re: No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

Post #29 by RichCreations » Tue Sep 27, 2016 2:34 am

78 granada wrote:Funny, I have the steel gasket I took off it sitting right here. Pretty cruddy but I cleaned it with a pad and oven cleaner. Almost sprayed it with copper and used it again but didn't have the guts, Ha!!

I would sure like to tackle this, one potential cause at a time, so I can say precisely what the root is. But then again I don't know how many times I am willing to run this thing out of oil in the process?

In theory, the new rocker assembly should not flow as much oil as the stock one. Rocker holes I drilled out to the valve stem are the same dia. as stock. But, the stock shaft has a flat along the bottom where the oil holes are - I believe this facilitates lubrication but the RAU unit I have does not have that flat - decreased flow. I get maximum oil pressure with the drill priming method. I watched this with the valve cover off and the oil was well returned to the sump.

My lifters are american made here in Michigan, not China, and not generic. I can't say that they are not collapsing for sure but they are fairly quiet and I do have them adjusted on the lose side if anything. They are brand new. Don't really know how to check them.....I guess I can get a new set for the money, what the heck.

If I put in a new OEM pump, go back to standard rockers, put in another set of brand new lifters and the oil pressure holds, I won't have a clue why. Funny, these hobbies chose us, we don't chose them!!!


I have no input on your oiling issues, but do yourself a favor, and skip the steel gasket, there is a reason OEMs quit using them.

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