Engine not turning?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hi everyone I'm writing today with not very good info. So I am a 16 year high school student. I attend school in AZ and the falcon is in CO. So I can only work on the falcon during breaks which means that it sits for long times in between working on it. It doesn't have garage spot yet ( working on it). Anyways last time I left the engine as I told everyone it wasn't running very well so I read some pages of the falcon six performance handbook and decided to try and tune it. Well I out on the battery that was working earlier and turn the key. Well first I hear a click and then nothing. I try it 3 more times with the same result. So I get out and try to spin it by hand. It's extremely stiff and after about 3/4 of a turn it locks up I can spin it back the other direction but it'll lock up eventually to. And to add to the fun the either the starter or the solenoid crapped out on me. Any ideas anyone
Thanks
 
air, fire, fuel needed 2 run... no fire now.
Battery ran out of juice? Ur excellent description of the lead in to current problem helps me believe the battery died.(click, click; now no clicks). A click tells me ur starter solenoid is popping the starter gear out to engage the FW but it's not got enuff strength (ele current frm battery weak /or/ there's too much resistance, friction/jammed up) to spin the FW/suck gas into compression chambers'n fire up to start.

As Seth sez - other things may have conspired to increase the friction & wear down the battery (combined with repeated start attempts. Two things may have worked together to reduce the starting capacity. Increased friction, decreased battery power= no fun at the key).

I 4get now... did U lube up the 'rotating assembly' when freeing up the engine for its 'first start' attempt. Don't wanna beake anything Plus: Lots of rust there can create difficulty starting (piston, valve/valve train friction) as well. Rocking it back by hand opposite way moves everything in the rotating assembly but pistons, if 'froze up' as may B the case here. I would guess and say that a breaker bar on the crank bolt would easily free it up but would add my former suggestion to add some lube 1st so as not to break anything (under valve cover, thru spark plug holes, dump crankcase, put on new filter & 3 or 4 qts thru a removed dizzy hole & the normal place 2 add engine oil).

FW teeth number comes with the correct FW for the engine ( i think yours has 157 or 164?)
 
Hi, take out the spark plugs and squirt some engine oil in the cylinders. Now try to spin it by hand clockwise. Remove the distributor cap and see if that spins when the crank shaft is turning. Be sure you are in neutral. Charge the battery and clean all connections and grounds. Post what happens. Good luck
 
falcon_master":3vqvgfjl said:
... So I get out and try to spin it by hand. It's extremely stiff and after about 3/4 of a turn it locks up I can spin it back the other direction but it'll lock up eventually to...

Yikes! Do NOT attempt to crank it with the starter any more until it can be rotated freely by hand. Pull ALL of the spark plugs and then rotate it by hand; if you get a bunch of water out of any of the cylinders, you will need to pull the head to find out why.
Good luck,
Joe
 
Thanks everyone. I'll pull the plugs again and lube it. I had a question I've always been confused about. I know what a camshaft does and how it works I've seen the roadkill and engine Masters videos but one that that always confuses me is cam duration. I understand it's measured in degrees but what does the @.50 mean. Does that mean for example a 230°@.50 that means that it's open for 230° but what does the @.50 have to do with it. Thanks guys
 
falcon_master":1o4dkb1b said:
Thanks everyone. I'll pull the plugs again and lube it. I had a question I've always been confused about. I know what a camshaft does and how it works I've seen the roadkill and engine Masters videos but one that that always confuses me is cam duration. I understand it's measured in degrees but what does the @.50 mean. Does that mean for example a 230°@.50 that means that it's open for 230° but what does the @.50 have to do with it. Thanks guys

Yes Camshaft Tech can be quite involved! Duration is usally quoted in two different ways first is the advertised duration which is measured at .000 and it would be about a 280 degree duration for your above example. The next is usally measured @ .050 (not .50 which would = 1/2 inch of lift) there are some cam companies that also use a different measurement too but most will have the .050 measurement. For comparing cams to each other and when degreeing the cam the .050 measurement is a great way since there is very little cam lobe lift below that measurement. In your example of 230 degrees @ .050 yes the valve would be open for 230 degrees. The .050 is a point of measurement during the degreeing of the cam. Also remember that this is only half of the cam lobes i.e. Either the intake or exhaust lobe and the engines crankshaft needs to make two full revolutions or 720 degrees to turn the camshaft one turn / 360 degrees. Now besides this the next item is the lobe separation angle and last is the lobe lift. Good luck (y) :nod:

Clay Smith Camshaft Spec Cards

ci/CamCards.html
 
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