Yella Terra Planning

Matthew68

Well-known member
Hi All,

Trying to wrap my head around the changes that will be needed for my incoming Yella Terra 1.65 set. I understand the lifters and pushrods are different, and I've done my research in the tech archive and searches. Note that the block is not being removed from the car. Here's what I know vs what I am still trying to figure out (read: need your assistance!):

1. I know I will need new lifters, the oil through kind. VI sells hydraulic and solid. Which is the correct application? I have a 68 stock bottom end with a stock camshaft. I've also found through the search that I can use SBF 302-351 lifters, but I want to be sure I'm ordering the correct part. No one ever lists a part number for these, if anyone has it that would be fantastic. I'm also aware of marking the #2 and #3 lifters in order to supply more oil to my DUI.

2. I know I'll need new pushrods. I'm not sure on the length yet as I will be measuring with an adjustable pushrod checker. However, from my understanding I need oil through ball-ball pushrods. VI doesn't sell these. Anywhere else I can source these? Looking for a company with experience with the YT set and our sixes. Otherwise, is the oil-through for lifters required?

3. Blocking the oil passage on the LR block. I'll be honest, I'm a newbie. Doing this makes me nervous that I'll somehow screw it up. I found the original post Bill made, where Does10s recommended tapping and plugging this passage. For someone who has NEVER done that sort of thing, is there a step-by-step and materials list you can help me with? I understand the importance of it, so I want to do it right. I'm also nervous about getting metal shavings in the block doing this, or doing it incorrectly. Any other solutions to this other than the tap and plug? Here is the original post: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=55160&p=422866&hilit=yella+terra+lifters#p422866

Otherwise, any other advice on installing this set that I should know of? Again, want to do it right the first time.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
Number 3 is pretty clear, inclusive, and straight forward. Ask specific Qs for specific answ if still not clear enuff 4 U.

1 & 2 I'll leave to others. 8^ )
 
What exactly are you expecting to gain by using 1.65 rockers if you're still using the stock camshaft? You likely won't get any gains by doing this, especially if the rest of the engine is also stock.
 
chad":2sdcfuot said:
Number 3 is pretty clear, inclusive, and straight forward. Ask specific Qs for specific answ if still not clear enuff 4 U.

1 & 2 I'll leave to others. 8^ )

Chad,

I felt like I did ask specific questions in #3:

3. Blocking the oil passage on the LR block. I'll be honest, I'm a newbie. Doing this makes me nervous that I'll somehow screw it up. I found the original post Bill made, where Does10s recommended tapping and plugging this passage. [highlight=yellow]For someone who has NEVER done that sort of thing, is there a step-by-step and materials list you can help me with?[/highlight] I understand the importance of it, so I want to do it right. I'm also nervous about getting metal shavings in the block doing this, or doing it incorrectly. [highlight=yellow]Any other solutions to this other than the tap and plug?[/highlight] Here is the original post: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=55160&p=422866&hilit=yella+terra+lifters#p422866

You see, I've never used a tap and die. I've never drilled into a block. I'm interested if there are any other proven methods since I don't have a good comfort level with this. JB Weld? Some other plug method? I don't know, just spitballing.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
CNC-Dude":3kt6lqgk said:
What exactly are you expecting to gain by using 1.65 rockers if you're still using the stock camshaft? You likely won't get any gains by doing this, especially if the rest of the engine is also stock.

CNC-Dude,

I've got an OZ250-2V head that's going on it. I don't have the budget right now to rebuild the bottom end (nor have I even pulled an engine or have the tools), but figured while I put the new head on I could at least put the new rockers on. If there is truly no benefit, I'm all ears. I can wait until the block gets rebuilt and a new camshaft, as I've got a set of 1.5 adjustable and non-adjustable assemblies.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
I believe you need a 1/8" pipe tap if i remember. Fill the oil passage with grease. Run the tap far enough just so the plug is below the deck surface. The plug is the allen wrench type.
Shop vac. the shavings out of the passage.
Reinstall the pipe plug with permatex sealer or teflon tape on the plug. Just make sure its below the deck surface.
How dry i am.
The 1.65 rockers will help the stock camshaft, but good luck installing new lifters on a used camshaft.
Call Jerry at Schneider cams & he will recommend the best profile for your combo.
Get rid of the JUNK stock cam.
Also get the full roller timing chain from Matt at vintageinlines.com
 
wsa111":2ct4mmar said:
I believe you need a 1/8" pipe tap if i remember. Fill the oil passage with grease. Run the tap far enough just so the plug is below the deck surface. The plug is the allen wrench type.
Shop vac. the shavings out of the passage.
Reinstall the pipe plug with permatex sealer or teflon tape on the plug. Just make sure its below the deck surface.
How dry i am.
The 1.65 rockers will help the stock camshaft, but good luck installing new lifters on a used camshaft.
Call Jerry at Schneider cams & he will recommend the best profile for your combo.
Get rid of the JUNK stock cam.
Also get the full roller timing chain from Matt at vintageinlines.com

Bill,

With the YT setup, do I need solid lifters or hydraulic? Or either will work?

Cheers,
Matthew
 
Whatever the camshaft came with. If you purchase another camshaft use the lifter for the camshaft.
 
As long as you're planning further upgrades in the future you'll be fine with upgrading the rockers. But like Bill suggested, ditch the stock camshaft. What are you planning to use for an intake and carb?
 
CNC-Dude":93icr9x3 said:
As long as you're planning further upgrades in the future you'll be fine with upgrading the rockers. But like Bill suggested, ditch the stock camshaft. What are you planning to use for an intake and carb?


Is it possible to put in a new camshaft without pulling the block? If so, that might be much more feasible for me. If not, I might just put the head on with the stock rockers and then plan and save for bottom end upgrades including doing the rockers, cam, overbore if necessary, double roller chain, etc

I have the 2V detachable intake manifold that came with the OZ head. I have an Autolite 2100 1.08 (287 CFM). I was planning on another thread so people could follow along with the build.
 
so I can only guess (& doing so means this will B a very extensive response:

U need to know how to run an ele. drill. Not like in wood.
Speed'n feed R the issue - U must go fast enuff to cut the metal but slo enuff to not heat the drill as it will dull. Use cutting fluid (just a splash of 30 weight or spray the rust buster). If U can't keep the drill Plum'n Verticle use a square to guide ur relation to the material.

Is this what U need? Would U like some UTube refferences or can those B found?

I'll return w/"tap" if needed. Again, much of what's needed is right there. I can augment. Much of it is abt confidence & there's only 1 way 2 get that. Glad ur not jumpin into something such that results R a disaster. But there's also 'grabbin the bull by the horns'. 8^ )
 
chad":1ozm3ljj said:
so I can only guess (& doing so means this will B a very extensive response:

U need to know how to run an ele. drill. Not like in wood.
Speed'n feed R the issue - U must go fast enuff to cut the metal but slo enuff to not heat the drill as it will dull. Use cutting fluid (just a splash of 30 weight or spray the rust buster). If U can't keep the drill Plum'n Verticle use a square to guide ur relation to the material.

Is this what U need? Would U like some UTube refferences or can those B found?

I'll return w/"tap" if needed. Again, much of what's needed is right there. I can augment. Much of it is abt confidence & there's only 1 way 2 get that. Glad ur not jumpin into something such that results R a disaster. But there's also 'grabbin the bull by the horns'. 8^ )

Thanks, Chad. That was helpful. I'm also wondering since there is a hole there already, if I could use a manual tap/die set. Using an electric drill has me nervous I'd go awry, too fast, etc.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
there is a call # for each tap on it's drill (size). Right sz drill 4 each sz tap.
U hafta make THAT hole round (I think it's what folks here call kidney shaped). U hafta make it go straight dwn the length of the plug U screw in (it angels off to the side as it's a oil channel).
So the drill preps the hole for the tap. The tap chases some threads onto the sideada hole. Several rotations in, several out (clears chips to do more cuttin).

I actually can't guide U on this in this way. My arthritis is actin up frm all the typin. Readin is not as good as watchin - Plez avail ur self to UTube as demonstration is the best teacher. If U have never observed, R not some 1 considered handi (by self or others), I would suggest a friend come over - U can do the nxt one. OR practice on ahunka metal (serously - that's how I learned, 1 broken tap after nother).
:shock:
 
While higher ratio rockers can be beneficial, they are so far down the list of upgrades to do and are usually done after you have exhausted all other efforts to extract the last few ounces of horsepower from an engine. That money they cost can be spent on much more beneficial items that can yield 20 or 30 HP instead of just 2 or 3 HP.
 
I think he's tryin to figure his new Oz 2v.
Think it has a stock 250 bottom...
 
CNC-Dude":bgi23o3g said:
While higher ratio rockers can be beneficial, they are so far down the list of upgrades to do and are usually done after you have exhausted all other efforts to extract the last few ounces of horsepower from an engine. That money they cost can be spent on much more beneficial items that can yield 20 or 30 HP instead of just 2 or 3 HP.


CNC-Dude,

I realize that. When I purchased my OZ head, they came with it. I didn’t go out and purposefully spend the money on it stand-alone. Since I have them, didn’t know if it was worthwhile enough to throw them on. I’ll just wait it until I can get a camshaft and do it right.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
chad":286j4hip said:
I think he's tryin to figure his new Oz 2v.
Think it has a stock 250 bottom...

Yep, thanks Chad. It’s actually the 200ci bottom end though.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
65coupei6":q47zwaue said:
You can install a cam without pulling the engine. just pull the radiator.

Interesting. I guess it would be better to do it right and replace all the bearings. It has 150k on it with stock bottom end never rebuilt. Thanks for letting me know though.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
Since they came with the head, that's no problem. Many people get caught up in the hype or bigger rocker ratios without truly understanding what their purpose is or isn't.
 
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