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Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

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Soledad
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Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #1 by Soledad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:53 am

Howdy all, I could use some help on a bogging issue with this Autolite 1100 carb.

This is for a '66/'67 Falcon with the 200. The car is originally from Arizona but now resides with me in the Denver Colorado area (5200 ft elevation). It is a shell of a car and hasn't run in a long time. The dizzy is mechanical advance (not the LOM) and the 1100 carb does not have the port for the spark control valve.

Here's a list of everything I've done to it so far:

- New copper spark plugs
- New wires
- New cap and rotor
- New coil
- New fuel pump
- New carb fuel filter
(Note: Fuel pump is pulling from a fuel can for the moment until I get the gas tank and fuel lines plumbed.)
- New condenser
- New carb spacer as the other one rusted out completely.
- Rebuilt the carb (I have some doubts as to my abilities here but followed the rebuild directions as best I could)
- New gaskets for carb base and spacer base.
- Set timing to 12* BTDC
- Set idle to 600 rpm for now
- Battery now charges at a nice 14.2v - 14.4v
- Set idle mixture screw with vacuum gauge as best I could. It just won't go any higher than a slightly shaky 14 in.Hg which I'm not sure is low or good for being at 5000' altitude.

The choke is out of adjustment so the car is hard to start. But, once I do get it started and warmed up (choke flap wide open and radiator hot) it will stay running and idles fine although smells incredibly rich (burns the eyes and nose) but doesn't smoke. The original plugs in it were soot black. If I give it a quick blip of the gas pedal it will bog and wants to stall out or die. If I slowly press on the gas pedal to raise the RPM it does just fine although it does have a high RPM miss.

If I look down into the carb I am getting a solid stream of gas when I blip the throttle so I'm not sure why it's trying to stall.

Here's what I think it could be but just not really sure:

- This carb may be jetted for sea level (it was an Arizona car) and doesn't like the high altitude. I don't know what size jet is currently in it.
- I noticed on the accelerator pump arm there is a roll pin in the "Hi" slot currently. Service manual says that if you are above 5000' altitude that roll pin should be in the "Lo" slot. I'm not entirely sure what that means or how it works.
- I have not checked points gap or dwell yet.
- I have not done a compression test yet.

What do you think? Is this just a case of the carb needing to be rejetted and reworked for the higher altitude? Maybe something else I've missed?

Thanks!
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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chad
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Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #2 by chad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:27 am

thanks for sharin ur puzzle w/me. I love'em.

I'd wrk on the ign (all ways 1st) a lill more. Points should B replaced when doing condenser (don't C that in ur write-up). bubs has posted a nice ck-list to follow. Is dizzy's prts free'n smooth sliding? Tube to carb OK? Was vehicle running B4 U replaced all the prts?
Is the fuel system 'clean' end to end (gunk in the fine passages in the carb)?
Float set as advised ('Mike's carbs' is a great uTube resource on rebuild, specs/prts sales)?

Not 1 to advise on hi altitude tunes, sorry (esp the 'pin' U mention) & forget the timing but 12* seems off to me??? I remember
total gets up to 32/36* on these...

Then onto the carb linkage, cable, external prts not bent, operate correctly...
Keep talkin~
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #3 by Econoline » Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:45 am

You're probably going to need to jet down for your elevation. I think the jet's are available from Mike's Carb Parts.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #4 by Soledad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:48 am

Thanks as always for the help chad.

I'll get the points replaced this weekend (I do have a new set sitting around waiting to go in).

Didn't check to see if the dizzy's parts move nice and free. I'll check that this weekend.

Vacuum tube from dizzy to carb is solid but not sure if there are any leaks at the connection points. I'll check those this weekend.

Vehicle was running before but very badly. Wouldn't hold idle, had throttle blip bog, smoked a little and had bad high RPM miss. Then fuel pump diaphragm gave up and car wouldn't start at all.

Cleaned the carb out as best I could with carb cleaner when I rebuilt it. Thinking I might actually take it apart again and deep soak the body in some sort of cleaner to dissolve anything I may have missed.

Yeah, set the float as best I could with the little paper ruler per what was on Mikes website. It's darn hard eyeballin' the float level with that paper ruler.

Timing was set to 12* BTDC at idle but I was so happy it was idling I forgot to disconnect the vacuum advance when setting it. I never checked to see what the full advance was. I'll set the timing again this weekend correctly with the vacuum advance plugged and see what RPM the full advance comes in at.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #5 by Soledad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 12:22 pm

Thanks Econoline. That's what I'm thinking. Did some digging and it looks like the sea level carbs were jetted with a 67 and above 5000' elevation you jet down to a 65.

Something else I just remembered is that I had four check balls in this carb. I just now saw an exploded diagram of a non-spark control carb and it had 3 check balls. I wonder if this carb had been rebuilt before but incorrectly? If you don't have a spark control valve carb do you not use a check ball in the spark control area?
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #6 by chad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 12:39 pm

no, U use them, a 'weight' too, I believe.
Mike's is the 1 to follow !
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #7 by CZLN6 » Wed Mar 18, 2020 2:16 pm

Howdy Soledad and All:

What transmission? GIven the rear gear ratio I'm guessing a C4 auto. IF that is the case, set the initial advance at 15 degrees BTDC. That is also a high altitude thing. you will find that is the Shop Manual.

Resetting the initial advance without the vacuum should help. To begin with set the carb roll pin as per shop manual. I wouldn't worry about rejetting yet. In general, higher altitude means thinner (less) air so less fuel is needed- but, maybe not.

FYI- If this is an auto trans, the distributor centrifugal advance curve is set for lower elevation also. And, the rear gear is likely a 2.8:1. If you do alot of mountain driving you will not like that.

FYI- since the car has been setting for a long time, a thorough inside cleaning of the oil passages is a necessity- especially the rocker arm shaft, as it carries oil to all the rocker arms.

Enjoy, and keep up posted on your progress.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #8 by Soledad » Wed Mar 18, 2020 3:47 pm

Thanks CZLN6.

Yeah, it's an auto trans. I think it's a C4. The shift indicator has a "green dot" on it under "Drive".

FYI- If this is an auto trans, the distributor centrifugal advance curve is set for lower elevation also. And, the rear gear is likely a 2.8:1. If you do a lot of mountain driving you will not like that.


Doh! Rear gears are indeed 2.80:1. Would I want the advance to kick in a little earlier being at this higher altitude? Or is that vice versa?

I'm going to be pulling the carb off this weekend and giving it a deeper clean. I'll also adjust that roll pin to the "Lo" slot and then re-measure the accelerator pump.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #9 by Econoline » Wed Mar 18, 2020 4:01 pm

The Blow up diagram of the 1101 in my Chilton shows 3 check balls and the weight. But also shows an scv so take that as you will.

When I got my van it ran horribly. When I rebuilt the carb I found it was missing a check ball and had a check ball in place of the weight( 2 check balls there. This was a Canadian rebuilt Autoline carb that I know the previous owner never opened up. He's friend of mine and not mechanically inclined. I asked him about it to. I made the weight per Mike's carbs instructions and rebuilt the carb and it ran pretty good. Like night and day compared to before.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #10 by CZLN6 » Thu Mar 19, 2020 1:48 pm

Howdy All:

Econo- Your 1101 was used on 1963 & '64 Ford cars with a 223 six engine. Yes, LoM distributors.

Solodad- On the centrifugal advance first check to see what swing weights you have. In any case the stock advance on these early distributors was very slow. IIWIYS, I wouldn't do any thing until I assessed what I have and what I want, down the road. I'd first assess the condition of the engine with a compression test, both wet and dry. Next would be a complete cleaning and assessment of the engine, inside and out. I'd be on the lookout for deal buster. before I would get too far I's want to know if this engine is worth the time, effort and money to get it to where I want to be. So, what is your plan for this engine/car???? What is your planned use????

FYI- So you know if the carb and distriutor are original to this engine? Since you have a none SCV 1100 in a 1967 Mustang, was it possibly a Calif/Emmission car? The '67 C/E carb was downsized from earlier 1100s- from 185 cfm to 150 cfm. Not good for Western Colorado. Same with the 2.8 rear gear. Also a '67 C/E engine was down on compression compared to prior 200s- 8:1 for '67 compared to 9:1 for the rest of the U.S.- by way of a larger dish in the piston top. All of these issues can be dealt with given enough time, money and knowhow. Sorry to be such a bubble buster but I thought you should know. So, what is your plan? what is your intended use for this car/engine? So, think it over and keep us posted on your plans and progress.

Adios David
Last edited by CZLN6 on Fri Mar 20, 2020 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #11 by wsa111 » Thu Mar 19, 2020 2:03 pm

On those carbs, always make sure the piston for the power valve is free to move up & down with the spring pressure.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #12 by Soledad » Thu Mar 19, 2020 3:10 pm

CZLN6 - For right now all I really want out of this engine/car is for it to putt around town (25 mph - 50 mph max). There's no seats in it, the interior except for the dash has been completely gutted. The trunk won't stay closed and there's no driver side door on it at the moment. And the body paint has been partially stripped. It needs a lot of TLC. And so my first goal was just to get it running to the point where I could drive it around our small town if I wanted and that's about it.

Once I get seats in it, driver door on, the hood on, the trunk lock replaced and and all safety items working then I'll start figuring out exactly where I want to go with it. I'm not a purest so this car will never be a factory condition restore. I love widebody Mustangs and have always thought the widebody look would be pretty cool on this. But for now, I just want to get it road (town) worthy.

I don't know if the carb and engine are original to the car (Falcon). It's a '66 but it has '67 front fenders on it and so that makes me question the engine. The engine doesn't have AC or a smog pump/air pump or anything like that and looks like maybe it never did. I think maybe I should try to figure out how to ID the block to see what year and where it came from. It does have 5 freeze plugs so that's good.

Heck, even the short amount of time I had it running, the heater core blew out and dumped a lot of coolant into the car. So I've got that on the list too. I'll bypass it for now while I wait for the heater core to get here.

wsa111 - Funny you mention that. I do remember playing with it when I had the carb apart and it seemed to move freely maybe 80% of the time. The other 20% it would get hung up and not retract. I gave it a little squirt of carb cleaner and cycled it for a bit but it didn't really make a difference in it hanging up intermittently. When I work on the carb again this weekend I'll give that a lot more attention.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #13 by CZLN6 » Fri Mar 20, 2020 1:17 pm

Howdy Back Solodad:

THe cylinder head casting code is on top of the intake log just behind the carb. The block casting code is on the passenger side of the block under the exhaust manifold. There is a code on top of the exhaust manifold as well.

The carb may have an ID tag attached to one of the top screws. also look on the carb base for stamped markings. The NON-SCV 1100 were a Cal/Em carb in California on '68 and '69 model year Mustangs and Falcons. Some of these C/Em had Electric chokes as opposed to the earlier hot air chokes.

The distributor has a code stamped on the base.

Knowing what you have will go a long ways toward knowing what to do. Do you have a Shop Manual? Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
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http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #14 by Soledad » Fri Mar 20, 2020 5:32 pm

Thanks for that info!

I went out and took some pics of the codes on the block, exhaust header and intake log.
Here's what I got:

Block: C6DE-6015-B (FoMoCo 7A13)
Intake log: C1DE-6090-A
Exhaust header: C5UE-9430-A

And as for the distributor, I thin there's a 1212 embossed into the side of it or something like that. It's really hard to make out but it's just left of the Motorcraft engraving.

As for the carb, unfortunately there is no metal tag on it and I can't see any numbers anywhere with it installed. I just don't have time today or tomorrow to remove it so I'll have to get the numbers off of it this weekend.

I'm going to hit the interwebs to figure out to decode these part numbers.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Fri Mar 20, 2020 5:49 pm

Your block decodes as a January 13, 1967 200 six, so it maybe orginal to your car check the Vin Number of car plus the door ID / Warrantee sticker.

Need the letter and 2 or 3 numbers combo for the other parts they look like a tag cast into the part, heads and blocks look like a tag with a screw head on each end. But ball park on the head it is a 1961 to 62 casting which could make it from a 144 or 170 engine so it's been changed from the orginal. The exhaust manifold is a 1965 up it might also be original to the car date code will determine that. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #16 by bubba22349 » Fri Mar 20, 2020 6:16 pm

For lots of good info on the Autolite carb's check out the posts in the below link it goes into great detail and has many links on parts and rebuilding them. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Autolite carb's
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=79805&p=618064&hilit=Autolite+carb+info#p617634
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #17 by Soledad » Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:25 am

Okay, I grabbed what I believe are the correct codes off the intake log and exhaust manifold this morning before work.

Intake log: 1J28 - It might be a 1J23 but I'm pretty sure it's 1J28.

Exhaust: 7A6, 7AG or 7AC - The last digit is very hard to read due to the rust.

Oddly the VIN on the door and the VIN on the radiator support don't match. Yet it is titled as a 1966.

Door VIN decodes as: 1966 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Sedan Futura bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 119052
Radiator support VIN decodes as: 1967 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Club Coupe bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 177973

Apparently I need to take the left front fender off to see what the VIN number is on the apron. I really hope it matches what's on the title.

And thanks for the link regarding the carb info. I'm going to be reading through that today. Oh and the carb definitely has the hot air choke.

I bought a Shop Manual (one big book) a while back. It's the "1966 Comet, Falcon, Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual".
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #18 by chad » Sat Mar 21, 2020 11:20 am

"...Shop Manual..."
just curious, by who?
Don't forget our own 'tech archive' above @ the big blue box w/the crossed screwdriver/wrench & 'the
Handbook" which is a treatise on just about what you appear to B planning...It's available from Matt at
vintage inlines dot com (?$20?, 25$?)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #19 by Soledad » Sat Mar 21, 2020 12:07 pm

...Shop Manual..." just curious, by who?


I bought it off of Amazon. It's brown and orange and inside it says it's a reprint of the Ford Service Publications Shop Manual.

I just ordered the Six Cylinder Performance Handbook from vintage inlines.

I have to say I am a bit bummed about having the older '61 head on this 200. It looks like it's been on there a very long time. I can only assume the person who put it on there didn't know the difference.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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my own adventure 1/2 a century ago

Post #20 by chad » Sat Mar 21, 2020 1:19 pm

"...Ford...Shop Manual..."
o0OO, nice.

I only had the co. shop man. once (Kawaski). It wuz expensive. I looked at all the pic'n got to wrk...

Trouble was I got the bike from a repair shop. Guy wuz hot roddin it thru his neighborhood so the lill kids poured
sand in his cranckase, dusted it off & put the cap back. The nxt mornin he didn't get far, took it to the shop'n said "Fix it & B
quick abt it !". When they called him up to report on what they'd found he nxt said "F.U. Keep it !" So I got it in 2 big boxes for the
time they had in. Lill did I know along w/that 1930's BSA gas cap'n other odds'n ends were 2 1/2 moon locating pins for the crank into
the 2 halves of the motor case. "Nick, puuur, purrr, nick purrr, nick." as I 1st ran it. Finally I read and there they were in the verbage :oopsie:
- nuttin in the pic. Luckily it was run on 2 saw horses w/a pallet for the bench (didn't hafta pull it outa da frame).

Sending good luck ur way (I was 20 y/o, possably 47 yrs wiser now, but don't bet on it) aaahahahaaaa :oops:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #21 by bubba22349 » Sat Mar 21, 2020 2:44 pm

Soledad wrote:Okay, I grabbed what I believe are the correct codes off the intake log and exhaust manifold this morning before work.

Intake log: 1J28 - It might be a 1J23 but I'm pretty sure it's 1J28.

Exhaust: 7A6, 7AG or 7AC - The last digit is very hard to read due to the rust.

Oddly the VIN on the door and the VIN on the radiator support don't match. Yet it is titled as a 1966.

Door VIN decodes as: 1966 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Sedan Futura bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 119052
Radiator support VIN decodes as: 1967 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Club Coupe bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 177973

Apparently I need to take the left front fender off to see what the VIN number is on the apron. I really hope it matches what's on the title.

And thanks for the link regarding the carb info. I'm going to be reading through that today. Oh and the carb definitely has the hot air choke.

I bought a Shop Manual (one big book) a while back. It's the "1966 Comet, Falcon, Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual".


On the heads intake this will decode as September 23, 1961 or maybe the 28th only 5 days difference so close enough. Some of the old time Hot Rodder's would bolt on the 170 heads to a 200 block for a bit more compression.

On the exhaust manifold you have a January 6, 1967 this is quite close to the short blocks date code so I would say it's orginal to the engine.

The body's Vin code under the hood is more accurate as to production date because doors can be changed out. You should see a small cut out area on the drivers side fender were you can see stamped in Vin numbers on the apron. Yes the Vin numbers are also under the left side front fender apron in the Aprox same location on both sides and they should both match, there are also three other hidden Vin number locations on the body / chassis. In cases of collision damage sometimes these front apron parts are changed but there would be signs this has been done. I would need both of the full Vin numbers to be able to decode them. Yes that's quite the puzzle on the Vins, will take a little more detective work to solve that mystery.

Assuming that the engine maybe orginal to the car since it has a January build date this a mid year production car I would lean towards it being a 1967 model. But it's also possable the slightly newer engine was swapped into the Falcons chassis. From my time working on the Ford assembly line in the mid 1970's I know the aprox beginning of the new year model change over. The assembly plant was shut down the for two weeks at the end of June so that the new models could begin to be built in July through early September and be delivered to the Ford dealer show rooms for their mid September showings. So late end of the year 1966 build dates are actually a 1967 Ford year model even if they were sold in 1966 yet to confuse things even more in some states they would also register a car by the year it was first sold.

1966 year model Falcons were a new body style for the Falcon line and this body style was carried over with minor changes each year though into the 1970 models. Some of the changes from 1966 to the 1967 Falcon were a new grille, a large padded horn button on the steering wheel, and the side trims on Deluxe models, and the excellent Select Shift C4 trans (see links below for more info). In reality it doesn't matter all that much on the mechanical parts, chassis, body parts as there is great interchangeability over the years with a few exceptions. Also only if you were going to restore car to factory specs and needed to search for some year specific body and trim parts to match what your car was built with. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited

Example of a 1966 Falcon
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lhJ7SlzryXQ

1967 Falcon Specs
https://www.falconclub.com/1967-2/
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #22 by Soledad » Sat Mar 21, 2020 3:11 pm

Thanks again bubba, and everyone for the help on this.

Here are the VINs and how I think they decode as:

Door VIN: 6K11T119052 / 62B R 46 20K 71 2 6

1966 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Sedan bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 119052

62B = 2-Door Sedan Futura Bench Seat (definitely had a bench seat in it)
R = Dark Green Metallic (The car is actually a blue color)
46 = Black Vinyl (The dash is black and the one door panel is black but that's all the interior I have in this thing)
20K = 20th October
71 = Los Angeles
2 = 2.83:1
6 = Dual Range Automatic C4 (has the green dot column shifter in it)
Note: The dash in this Falcon is a '66 I believe. It's straight across and doesn't have the center dip in it. And it doesn't have the signal arrows in the center of the dash bezel just above the steering wheel.

Radiator support VIN: *7K20T177973*

1967 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Club Coupe bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 177973

As for the fender apron VIN, I'll have to get that one later when I've got more time.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #23 by bubba22349 » Sat Mar 21, 2020 3:47 pm

HI Soledad, that info is very helpful on the door code, but also the way your car is equipped with the Duel Range / Green Dot C4 that matches the door info (the last year of production for Green Dot trans was 1966) so I am going to guess that its in reality a 1966 Falcon and if the Title / Registration also matches that Door tag info then that's your conformation. When or if you ever pull the other fender you might be able to know if that front apron and radiator support was changed out during a repair job (look for signs of the welding in of those parts). I used to often do that to repair collision damage on these unibody Fords but I would also try to keep the original Vin numbers intact. In my above post in the links you can see some of the factory build differences' between the 1966 and 1967 models too. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #24 by bubba22349 » Sat Mar 21, 2020 4:20 pm

On upholstery and trim parts Dearborn Classics is one of severial complies offering factory style 1966 & 67 seat cover kits, door panels (but seats and panels not in black so they would need to be dyed), carpeting, maybe headliners too, weather stripping and other small trim parts and accessories. :thumbup: :nod: https://www.dearbornclassics.com/catalo ... -trim.html

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #25 by Soledad » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:13 pm

Took the carb off today to do some work on it.

Before I took the top off I noticed the top gasket was fuel soaked leading me to believe that maybe the float level is too high or something else is causing it to be too high. Or, it's just a crappy, absorbent gasket.

I also noticed that this is running a "60" jet and so I believe it's already a "high altitude" jet.

And I can't find a part number on this carb anywhere. The only number I can find on it is a large "6" on the side of it.

Anyway, here's what I've done to it so far:

- Removed the 4 check balls and weight and sprayed out all of the tiny passages with carb cleaner. Then hit them with a blast of air. They all seem to be free and clear.
- Moved the accelerator pump roll-pin from the HI position to the LO position and then bent the rod so that a 3/16" drill bit would slip past between the carb and roll pin with throttle plate fully closed (idle screw backed all the way out). I think the purpose of this is to lessen the pump shot amount for the higher altitude.
- Readjusted the anti-stall dash pot. Screwed it in until it's just touching and then another 3-1/4 turns.
- Checked the float level and it's 1-3/32" measuring from both sides of the float to the surface of the carb (without the gasket). I was going to try Mike's 1" float setting but because the gasket looked fuel soaked I've decided to keep it at 1-3/32" for now.
- The power valve was definitely sticky. It was pretty bad. So this time I put a bunch of carb clean in it and cycled that for a while but it still felt sticky. I blew it out as best as I could with some low pressure air and then sprayed in some penetrating oil and cycled it a bunch more times. After this I haven't been able to get it to stick so I'm hoping it will stay that way.

When I put it back together I am going to leave out the 4th check ball in what was the Spark Valve area. The carbs that don't have a spark valve don't have a check ball there. I suspect with a check ball there and no spark valve the vacuum from the intake sucks the ball down and doesn't allow vacuum to the port for the vacuum advance on the distributor. The port for this is above the throttle plate which I believe makes it a ported vacuum source. With no check ball there it should act as a normal ported vacuum source for the non-LOM distributor.

Hoping all of this has a positive effect. But, with my luck, it will only get worse. :lol:
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #26 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:36 pm

Great job getting all those carb settings correct. Did you do the choke settings too? Dose your car have the correct hot air stove pipe hooked up to the exhaust manifold? What type float dose your carb have is it the nitro type? If so you may need to replace the float if you still get the flooding. How is the throdle shaft is it loose? If so you may have a vaccum leak there that needs to be repaired, good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #27 by Soledad » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:54 pm

Thanks!

I re-did the choke settings but I will be honest, I find the choke settings the most difficult to do. It almost always takes me several tries to get the choke set correctly and sometimes even more. :oops:

Yeah, it's got the hot air stove pipe that is press fit into the exhaust manifold and it screws into the side of the choke.

This carb has the brass float. I tested it during the first rebuild and no bubbles after holding it under for a while.

The throttle shaft feels tight and doesn't have any lateral or axial movement. But I'm still going to spray around the carb with carb cleaner to see if there are any vacuum leaks I'm just not finding. Need to check and see if the vacuum advance is leaking too.

I won't get to start it today but I'm hoping to have time tomorrow to tinker with it again.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #28 by Soledad » Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:46 pm

Okay, an off topic but kind of on topic question regarding the vacuum advance.

I decided to put my MityVac pump on the vacuum advance and I can't build any vacuum on it. The pump does work as I tested it before I used it. If I blow hard on the line to the vacuum advance there is air coming out of it.

Should these vacuum advances hold a vacuum or is it more like a metered leak vacuum? If it should hold a vacuum then I think I found my vacuum leak. :lol:

EDIT: Never mind. Yeah, the diaphragm definitely has a hole in it. Time for a new one.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #29 by bubba22349 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 12:49 am

Yes a vacuum advance canister should hold a vaccum, this might also be part of the reason that your engine is bogging when you blip the throdle. Good idea to replace it best of luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #30 by Soledad » Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:23 pm

Decided to tape up the vacuum port on the carb and start the car to see if my carb work made any difference. Nope, not one bit of difference. Still hesitates really bad if I blip the throttle.

I'm going to pull the carb off after the engine cools down and readjust that accelerator pump. I think maybe I did it wrong. As far as I can tell, you adjust it to 3/16" with the roll-pin in the HI spot and then afterwards move the roll-pin to the LO slot for high altitude.

Anyway, with the engine warmed up a I took the time to pull out all of the plugs and do a compression test.

Test #1 was with engine warm-to-hot, all plugs out, throttle wide open and no oil. Turned the engine over until I got the highest reading.
Test #2 was with engine warm-to-hot, all plugs out, throttle wide open and with oil. Turned the engine over until I got the highest reading.

Just to note, the plugs are brand new with two 20 minute idle sessions on them with some high revs. Engine got hot enough to open up the thermostat. Unfortunately there is no way to drive it.

I'm not really sure how to read the plug color. Cyl-1 and Cyl-8 look really lean. But the others, I can't tell if their showing signs of richness, oil burn or etc.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x7 ... wtXTNE.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x7 ... S6vWRp.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x7 ... MVFb3Q.jpg
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #31 by Soledad » Mon Mar 23, 2020 2:54 pm

Put it all back together with the readjusted accelerator pump and still same problem. Readjusted idle and idle mixture for the best idle and most vacuum possible (about 15 inHg.) but no joy.

Noticed that if I cup my hand over the carb opening to choke it off a bit and then blip the throttle it doesn't hesitate nearly as bad. This leads me to believe that it may be lean. I sprayed carb spay down at the throttle shaft and sure enough the RPM's raised just a tad, so little that I almost didn't notice it. Tried clamping off the vacuum hose leading down to the trans but that had no effect.

I wish I could identify this carb but there's no part number on it anywhere. Don't know if it's sized to small for this 200 or not.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #32 by bubba22349 » Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:17 pm

Plugs look like its pertty rich, when it right they should be a light tan. Did you replace the distribtor vacuum advance can? What is your base ignistion timing set at? :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #33 by Soledad » Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:03 pm

I've got a new vacuum advance can on the way. Should be here by the end of the week I hope.

I ran the car today with the vacuum advance tube disconnected and plugged at the carb. I set the timing today to 14* BTDC but I'm thinking maybe I could get away with a bit more.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #34 by bubba22349 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:37 am

That's good on the vacuum advance can and 14 degrees base timing. Below are the stock tune up settings ifor you need them, good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Stock basic 1966 / 1967 Ford Falcon with 200 six / C4 Auto Trans (Federal 49 state) tune up specs.
Autolite BF-82 plugs gapped at .034.
Basic Points setting gaped at .025 for best performance your looking for a Dwell setting of 39 Degrees.
Base timing is set to 12 Degrees BTDC.
Idle RPM 525 with the auto trans in Drive, parking brake set, AC off
Fuel pressure is 4.5 PSI

To get most accurate tune up I always use of a tach / dwel meter For points type Distribitor, and also a timing light. This is the procedure I have found works the best and quickly for me.

A good tune up follows this order of work
1. Set the plug gap .034.
2. Set the points basic setting to .025 after its runing set the Dwell Angel to factory spec of 39 degrees.
3. Now you need to set the timing to 12 degrees base timing vacuum line disconnected and plugged. You can also try more base timing to as much as 16 degrees but it if there is any hint of pinging when you try it then back off until it stops. Reinstall the vaccum line to the Distribitor.
4. Set the Idle mixture to its Lean Best Idle. First turn the mixture screw until you get the highest RPM then turn the screw in 1/4 turn (this is the lean bset idle).
5. Set the curb idle speed to 525 RPM with trans in drive parking brake set.
6.Repeat 4. & 5. To see if it improves anymore.
You might also test your coils output with the volt / ohm meter as well as the plug wires and cap for their resistance readings that they are in spec.

Additionally while doing this tune up the engine needs everthing hooked up just as it will be operated! This includes having the Air Cleaner installed and the PCV hooked up. If you want to use a Vaccum gauge then hook that up to the Intake Log below the Carb. Good luck in your tuning :thumbup: :nod: edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #35 by Soledad » Sun Mar 29, 2020 1:43 pm

UPDATE:

I got it figured out. It's a leaking throttle shaft causing my problems. AND....it possibly needed a bigger jet but we'll see after I somehow fix the leaky throttle shaft.

I had taken the carb apart again and examined everything in super detail. I had also ordered 62, 64 and 65 jets from Mikes to try. I used jewelers wire on all of the holes and orifices I could find but everything was really clean. I left the float level at 1-3/32". But this time I installed the 62 jet. I also checked both sides of the shaft and one side is solid but the other side has just a touch of wiggle.

So I put put the carb back on.
Set plugs to .034"
Set points to .025"
Installed the new vacuum advance canister but left that unhooked for now.

I hooked up my Dwell/Tachometer/Volt Meter and then fired it up. Still need to get that choke set. :cry: Got the engine warmed up and right away I noticed that it wasn't bogging nearly as bad. I could blip the throttle and it wouldn't try to die. It would bog just a little but nothing like it was before. I adjusted idle to 700 in park because I can't put it in drive at the moment and set the air/fuel mixture to the best vacuum reading that I could get which is 14.5 in.Hg. It's still a little boggy but it doesn't want to die and I'll take that win no matter how small it might be.

So, while it was sitting there idling I took some carb spray and sprayed all of the gasket points and nothing. No change in idle. I then sprayed the throttle shaft point at the front of the carb. Nothing. Then I sprayed the shaft at the back of the carb and it immediately died. Started it up and did both shafts again. Sure enough, that back side shaft is leaking pretty bad.

I finished up by checking the dwell which is at 40 which is in the range of 37-42 per the manual.

So, I need to fix the throttle shaft. Any ideas as to how to do that?? I haven't found any carb rebuild kits that include bushings or anything like that.


tl;dr - Back side throttle shaft is leaking bad and is most likely the cause of my off idle hesitation/engine bog.

NOTE: I had sprayed the throttle shafts with carb cleaner last week but I was not using the red tube on the spray nozzle and so it wasn't a direct enough shot to make much of a difference. Using the red tube when spraying and the engine dies immediately.
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #36 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:13 pm

Vaccum leaks caused by a loose throdle shaft are a common problem and should even be expected when these carb's have went trough all these decades of use. They usally only wear on the one side this is because of the throdle linkage pushing on and the amount of leverage against the throdle arm and then you have throdle return spring pulling it back shut again. Had to fix or else replace the carb's when pressed for time on many of them over the years. Back about 6 months ago FTF (French Town Flyer) over on the Big Six forum was working on fixing these same problems on his supply of Autolite 2100 and Motorcraft 2150 2V carb's that he uses on his 300 powered race cars. He located all the parts and tools to repair them and then went step by step on the process in his posts, you can read about how he did it in the below link the technic and probally the same parts could work on your Autolite 1V carb. If I remember correctly the throdle shaft are same standard size you wold need to measure your throdle shaft OD to verafy.

:beer: Excellent you have made some very good progress on your 1966 Falcon and finally zeroed in on the main cause of all your bogging troubles. You also won't be able to get the cruise air fuel ratio right (by changing the main jet) until that large vacuum leak is repaired first then that 200 engine is going to purr and get the great fuel economy that it was desgined to. Best of luck. :nod: : :thumbup:

Autolite / Motorcraft Throdle Shaft Repair / Rebush
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80370
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

Post #37 by Soledad » Sun Mar 29, 2020 4:33 pm

Thanks everyone for hanging in there with me on this.

I think I'm going to close out this post now. Most likely I'll just buy a new carb. After reading through how to install new shaft bushings, I'm just not down for that. Way too much intricate work.

Cheers! :beer: 8)
1966/1967 Ford Falcon Futura || 200ci || No AC || 2.83:1gears || All stock, not running and needs a LOT of TLC

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