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Replacing the cam

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Georgia200
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Replacing the cam

Post #1 by Georgia200 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:14 am

I want to get my 67 200 running better until I do the engine swap. I think thats still 2-3 months down the road.

I suspect a bad lifter or wiped cam lobe on #2 intake. When I pull the pushrod and look down the hole, I see something metal that doesnt belong there, but I cant tell what it is.

This engine has adjustable rockers. I couldnt adjust #2 intake, the adjusting nut bottomed out and the pushrod was still loose. All 11 other valves adjusted ok.

I pulled everything off last night that needs to come off before pulling the head and put #1 at TDC on the compression stroke.

If I need to pull the cam, can I do it with the engine in place?

If I cant, Im going to pull the engine and leave it out. That will give me plenty of time to repaint, rewire and do everything else I want to do under the hood.

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B RON CO
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #2 by B RON CO » Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:29 am

Hi, can you get the metal piece out with a skinny magnet? It probably won't matter.
The cam will hit the radiator and probably the grill. The cam is as long as the block so you can measure out and see.
Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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chad
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replacing cam, motor in

Post #3 by chad » Mon Mar 30, 2020 9:12 am

I've heard remove stuff in the way (radiator, etc) cut a hole in the grill. Put it back when done.
But folks here said no.
:?:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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jamyers
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Re: replacing cam, motor in

Post #4 by jamyers » Mon Mar 30, 2020 12:33 pm

chad wrote:I've heard remove stuff in the way (radiator, etc) cut a hole in the grill. Put it back when done.
But folks here said no.
:?:

Cut a hole in the grill??? I don't know about a '67, but a halfway decent '62 Falcon grill (*if* you can find one) will cost you hundreds of dollars.

Geez, pulling the engine is easy, especially if you can use the time to clean / paint / tidy things up.

:beer:
James - '62 Ranchero (200cid), '71 LeSabre (464cid)

The ONLY safety device we need is a 6" sharpened steel spike bolted to the center of the steering wheel of EVERY vehicle.
Emergency Rooms and Funeral Homes will be busy for a week or so, then I predict a dramatic drop in vehicle accidents.

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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #5 by CZLN6 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 1:03 pm

Howdy Georgia and All:

The problem with pulling the cam, with the engine in the car, is getting the lifters out of their bores and off of the cam. There is a rare tool for pulling the lifters with the engine in but, getting them out the top of the engine through the slots on the top of the block is iffy. Most casting have slots too narrow to get the lifters out. Dealing with the lifters, both out and in, is much easier though the bottom with the engine out. Sorry.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

Georgia200
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #6 by Georgia200 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 1:41 pm

Thats a bummer. I have a super strong magnet and I was hoping to get the lifter out using it.

I wanted to keep the car on the road as long as possible, but it is running really bad now. The timing is jumping, uses no oil, other than what I think is a bad lifter, it runs well.

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chad
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Fishin out a colapsed/sideways lifter

Post #7 by chad » Mon Mar 30, 2020 1:51 pm

try to wrk that one. If U can't there's ur answ?

To the naysater. My info is:
Fella cut 3 sides to a sq in the grill. When done, bent it down, tiged it back. Invisable~
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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powerband
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #8 by powerband » Mon Mar 30, 2020 2:19 pm

Thats a bummer. I have a super strong magnet and I was hoping to get the lifter out using it.

It is difficult but possible to lift out lifter with a strong magnet. Problem often is they are basically stuck from varnish at cam side preventing the magnet from working.. Don't think I've tried it with non-hydro's, with hydro lifters I've used a slide hammer with a washer hooked into spring groove on top edge.

have fun

Image
" Everything in my garage has a story ..."

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StarDiero75
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #9 by StarDiero75 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 2:36 pm

I just did this in my 65 Ranchero. I had to remove the grille, hood latch, bumper and valence. I also got all my lifters out with a magnet. Its not that bad. A few of them were super hard and took 30 mins but its definitely do able. I got a better smaller magnet after i took them all out and that made putting them in much easier. Between a screw driver and a magnet, all 12 came out
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", 2V converted built 1980 head, Autolite 2100 1.08, Dual out VI headers, Custom curved DUI, 256H Schneider cam 2.5 degrees advanced with dual roller chain, 2" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster 40s
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Econoline
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #10 by Econoline » Mon Mar 30, 2020 4:08 pm

In a situation like this I think my first approach would be to make a strong effort to get that one lifter out the top. If it can be extracted you can determine its condition and the condition of the lobe. Then, since you are on the verge of an engine swap, I'd just replace that one lifter if it's the problem. Plenty of moly cam grease on the lobe and lifter base and zddp additive in the oil with a break in procedure on startup and hope for the best. Many people have successfully replaced lifters only and individual lifters.

Good luck.
It ain't gonna fix itself

Georgia200
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Re: Replacing the cam

Post #11 by Georgia200 » Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:50 pm

Ive decided to pull the engine and tranny.

Ive been putting it off and have been indecisive on what direction to take. Its not going to get done talking about it.

Im going to pull the head first, then the tranny and the engine last.

New question is which carb. Thats a separate thread.

I have 1-2 weeks worth of work under the hood before the new engine goes in. I want to paint and replace the under hood wiring harness. No rust, just the wrong color and a bunch of runs and drips. Pretty much grease and oil free as well.

I still need an oil pan, thats all I lack to be able to sit the new engine in.

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62Ranchero200
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Replacing the cam with the short block in the car

Post #12 by 62Ranchero200 » Tue Mar 31, 2020 1:09 pm

@Georgia200,

I have done this twice, once with my old 200 and currently in progress with my 250, both in my '62 Ranchero.

With a telescoping magnet (a tool like a collapsible radio antenna with a small but powerful magnet on the end), it's not that difficult to remove the lifters - I probably removed them all in 15 minutes or less, not really trying to hurry.

Of course, you have to remove the radiator, mechanical fan, water pump pulley, harmonic balancer, timing cover, latch, and bumper. I did not need to remove my grille, but your results may vary.

I would have hesitated to upgrade my cam if I had to pull the short block out of the car.

Thanks
Bob
62 Ranchero, 252 cid, 300 rods, RaceTek pstns, ARP mains bolts & studs, balanced & blueprinted, CI AL head, 1.6 adj rckrs, Smith Bros, 274/274/108 cam, CI int, Holley 500, DSII, CI SS hdrs, PowerMaster strtr and 1wire alt, Optima, V8 rad, T-5z, 10" organic clutch, 5 lug 8" w/3.80 Trac Loc, rear drums, front 5 lug discs, Centerlines. Next: ?.

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