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1965 AMC 196

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matt1967
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1965 AMC 196

Post #1 by matt1967 » Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:39 pm

I just recently bought a '65 Rambler American 330 w/ the 196 and Flash O Matic auto trans. the engine runs fine, but the Carter RBS carb is a little screwy, it will start fairly easy and idle fine cold ( fast idle ), after it warms up a little, releasing the choke will cause it to idle irraticly, flood up and eventully die. the idle speed screw is all the way in. I know it has to have somthing to do with the float and the needle and seat. car is pretty much drivable other than having no idle capabilaties. I have an old " Jiffy " kit for the carb that I will put in it, anything I should watch out for when rebuilding the carb?

fmartin_gila
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Post #2 by fmartin_gila » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:06 am

Sounds like there may be plugged passages too. Just make sure everything is clear and pay close attention to making the adjustments called for.
Fred
62 uni

matt1967
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Post #3 by matt1967 » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:38 pm

fmartin_gila wrote:Sounds like there may be plugged passages too. Just make sure everything is clear and pay close attention to making the adjustments called for.
Fred
I'v heard the measurements on these carbs are critical to get right, I have a complete manual now, also a specification/ adjustment procedure and blow up scan in's from a Motors manual, and the carb kit instructions, I should be good w/ that... what is worrying me, is my auto parts supplier cannot get a new float, I think the 1 in it might be sinking.

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shmoozo
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Post #4 by shmoozo » Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:20 am

matt1967 wrote:
fmartin_gila wrote:Sounds like there may be plugged passages too. Just make sure everything is clear and pay close attention to making the adjustments called for.
Fred
I'v heard the measurements on these carbs are critical to get right, I have a complete manual now, also a specification/ adjustment procedure and blow up scan in's from a Motors manual, and the carb kit instructions, I should be good w/ that... what is worrying me, is my auto parts supplier cannot get a new float, I think the 1 in it might be sinking.


Unless you are really concerned with keeping an all original carb on the engine I have to believe you could substitute some other one-barrel carb in for it with a few small adjustments to linkage and fuel line and such. Pick something for which you could get tuning parts (jets and such) and it should be possible.
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."
-Henry Louis Mencken

matt1967
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Post #5 by matt1967 » Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:22 pm

I could try that, but I'd have to get a carb, then rebuild it.. dosn't make any sense to me, the RBS is a decent carb that flows good, theres no reason to change it.

fmartin_gila
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Post #6 by fmartin_gila » Fri Mar 21, 2008 7:03 am

The RBS is a decent carb. If you do have a bad float, you might try to save it, or you may have to pull more off some junkers to find a good one. Also ck yellow pages for carb shops, most larger cities have a few, and there is Hemmings. Usually, unless you are trying to up the performance, stock systems are the best all-around. Way back in my dark past, I owned a 1959 and a 1960 Rambler. Both were I6 with Auto, and as I remember, were very trouble free cars.
Fred
62 uni

matt1967
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Post #7 by matt1967 » Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:25 pm

fmartin_gila wrote:The RBS is a decent carb. If you do have a bad float, you might try to save it, or you may have to pull more off some junkers to find a good one. Also ck yellow pages for carb shops, most larger cities have a few, and there is Hemmings. Usually, unless you are trying to up the performance, stock systems are the best all-around. Way back in my dark past, I owned a 1959 and a 1960 Rambler. Both were I6 with Auto, and as I remember, were very trouble free cars.
Fred
The carb doctor has aftermarket nitrophotyl floats for $25 a bit expensive, but I have 1 on order

matt1967
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Post #8 by matt1967 » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:51 pm

Just as an update to what's happened w/ the carb issue... I found a NOS carter Zip fit RBS on ebay for $60 so I snagged it.. stuck it on and the car runs like a top

fmartin_gila
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Post #9 by fmartin_gila » Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:49 am

It is so nice when things work out well. Enjoy.
Fred
62 uni

matt1967
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Post #10 by matt1967 » Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:37 pm

yea... I did send out my original carb out for a professional rebuild ( once I got the bowl off I realised it was no holley and put it back on ).. when I got it back it was running just like it did, only diffrence is the carb looked new, and it was able to idle hot... I sent it back on warranty and have not recived it back.

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chad
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'65 AMC 195.6ci/3.2L

Post #11 by chad » Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:15 pm

OLD Thread, eh? needy fella, tho

I was tryin to follow the thread - the orig. carb was a rebuild?
Lots of guys on here find they don't trust a rebuild and do it (sometimes) again. No probs then.

I have a RBS I'd like to find more info about. Not sure you can help -

It's numbers check out as a '69 AMC (may B "American"). I want to put it on a Ford 250 but the American had a smaller motor than the 250 (3.2,3.3, & 3.8L). There were some near 4.1L ( the 250s) i.e. Ambassador (4.o, 4.2) and Hornet (252 or 4.1L).

Can you tell me a forum/site or on-line club, retailer, or do you have any ideas to help (linkage style, throttle boar sz, bolt spacing and most imp. - CFM) me gather more info on these carbs?

Thanks.
BTW: in about '68/9 I had an Rambler American 440 (I think) convertible that ran so smooth and quiet when I pulled up to a stop people laughed because they thought I'd stalled.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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