challenger6
New member
What are your opinions on O ringing a block for a turbo application. At what boost or power level would you consider it necessary. Thanks----Lee
O ring block for turbo application
- Thread starter challenger6
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TCIC 300ci superbeast
Famous Member
well later on this year when i start the build on my 300 im going to O ring the block for about 15-20 psi with around 9.0:1.
it may be over kill i dont know. but its better to over do it then brake the motor with in the first few start ups.
it may be over kill i dont know. but its better to over do it then brake the motor with in the first few start ups.
Lee,
Until Mike gets hooked up with Cometic, we're stuck with Fel-Pro or Corteco head gaskets. They generally can handle up to 10lbs. of boost (assuming proper timing and fueling).
The other method is copper. We're using a copper gasket made by GasketWorks. Mike can get them.
We've never pushed one out! We have had some coolant/oil leakage from time to time but I think we've figured out a way to fix that.
We've had them up to 17-18lbs of boost. We're also using 1/2" head studs to help with clamping.
So O-ring'g is a very good idea. And it's practically mandatory if you use a copper gasket.
Later,
Will
Until Mike gets hooked up with Cometic, we're stuck with Fel-Pro or Corteco head gaskets. They generally can handle up to 10lbs. of boost (assuming proper timing and fueling).
The other method is copper. We're using a copper gasket made by GasketWorks. Mike can get them.
We've never pushed one out! We have had some coolant/oil leakage from time to time but I think we've figured out a way to fix that.
We've had them up to 17-18lbs of boost. We're also using 1/2" head studs to help with clamping.
So O-ring'g is a very good idea. And it's practically mandatory if you use a copper gasket.
Later,
Will
Army of Six
Well-known member
Will, what were your tricks to keep the water/oil mixing with the copper gaskets?
turbo250chick
New member
Will's busy banging on the drums so I'll post for him. We are using "Great Stuff" on the block surface, then copper gasket, then a thin film on the gasket, then install the head. On our last 16 passes, no leakage was noted. When we pulled the head due to our latest carnage it took about 20 minutes and lots of muscle to disengage the head from the block. The best part is that we did not note water/oil mixing. We torque the head with the 1/2" studs to 100ft lbs. The block is O'ringed.
On behalf of Does10s and the very happy driver, myself.
Kelly
On behalf of Does10s and the very happy driver, myself.
Kelly
The "Stuff" is called "Right Stuff". I told Kelly the wrong name. Great Stuff is that sprayable, expandable, yellow foam stuff.....don't use that! 
The Right Stuff comes in either a "Cheese Wiz" style pressurized can or a "caulking gun" style. Use the caulking gunstyle. The pressurized can will jam up eventually.
Later,
Will
The Right Stuff comes in either a "Cheese Wiz" style pressurized can or a "caulking gun" style. Use the caulking gunstyle. The pressurized can will jam up eventually.
Later,
Will
66Sprint6
Famous Member
Right Stuff is a gift from God...the Israelites got Manna...were blessed with Right Stuff. Im runnin 12psi normal and 20psi now for fun and I have no leakage noted and I havnt been easy on it. Now I just need to make those psi count for somethin, i feel like Im only boostin 10psi even tho its 18-20 on high boost. Tunin time!
Matt
Matt
Do you coat the whole copper gasket with Right Stuff or only around the coolant and oil holes?
JGTurbo
Well-known member
66Sprint6":1g9x5c5k said:
Exactly.
I use it on anything that seals oil or water. I've never heard of it being used on a head gasket before, but it sounds like it works great! I just built a Suzuki SV 650 (sleeved to 606cc). I o-ringed the cylinders, designed a copper gasket and had the waterjet place here in town cut it out. It turned out well. I ended up coating everything with Permatex Hylomar. I haven't started it up yet, so I can't say if it works. Anyone else used Hylomar on a head gasket?
Hylomar is good stuff when you just want some peace of mind and without the legacy of needing a pry bar later on. If you really make sure the head and block surfaces are bone dry your standard gasket should crush nicely and the bore binders seal tight.
I'm not sold on copper gaskets, nor orings, but it's no biggy. The only time I've blown a stock gasket on boost was when the fueling leaned out.
I'm not sold on copper gaskets, nor orings, but it's no biggy. The only time I've blown a stock gasket on boost was when the fueling leaned out.
Too late for me, already bought copper head gasket, O-ring wire, and the blocks in the shop.
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