Shelby Supercharger

I have 2 Shelby Supers from the 66 GT350s. I was wondering if I can put them in my car (a 66 mustang 200)? Is there anywhere I can learn about the modifications to the carb and engine needed to use these?

wow...

really? bet those are worth a mint.

I think they are. The Shelby that we had for a while was a rarer version. Was a 66 GT350 in Candy Apple Red. From what I've been able to tell there weren't many of those made. Don't think it was stock with the super though. Only 3 Candy Apple Red with stock super in 66. That would've been sweet.

Nobody knows if I can use them? Haven't been able to find anything at all about them. Boost levels, etc...

I'll tell you what, just go ahead and box one of those up and send it it to me. After I put it on, adjust the carburetor and get it running good I'll tell you how I did it and the supercharger can be payment enough.

Ok just kidding, sort of. :roll: I've been looking for a supercharger to put on my 66 200. I think it it can be done very easily. Just like a turbo. A few of the guys are putting the old thunderbird supercharger on their 200's. I believe you make sure you have a enough fuel, and lower the timing and the compression under 9. Give it try and keep us posted. or do the first thing I suggested .

Just follow the normal rules for boosting. I don't know any specs on those, so I have no idea what it would make.

make sure compression is 8.5 or so, retard the timing, and get a boost refreneced fuel pump and follow some of the posts on here for making your carb boost ready and you should be good to go.

The above picture is the Paxton SN/89 mounted on the passagers side of my 1968 Mustang, I've had this setup for about five years, I had to relocate the battery to the trunk for the above installation. I am currently working on a drivers side install using the power steering mount. Sorry the engine bay is so dirty but this has been a daily driver for almost five years, I recently got a new H3 Hummer to replace the Mustang as my daily driver, hence I now can try something new.
8)

what kinda hp does one of these things push? what kinda psi? would i need to replace the internals? and how much would one run?

If I recall correctly, or IIRC, a supercharger is about a 45% to 50% horsepower increase. The supercharger is belt driven so it maintains constant pressure. Typical is about 6 to 8lbs. You can raise or lower boost by changing the pulley diameter. Some superchargers use a bow off valve like some turbocharged engines do on the intake side before fuel input.

IIRC Mustangaroo has the Oz head so hes probably pushing out about 110hp? So Im guessing hes making about 165-175hp.

That may not sound like all that much but a 1984 Mustang GT and Mustang SVO made 175hp in a 2800lb car and that was considered impressive.

A 1966 Mustang with 200 inline six should weigh about 2650lbs.

You build a supercharged engine same way you build a turbocharged engine. Still recommend forged rods, forged pistons, ARP head studs and ARP rod bolts, and if using a carb a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks a lot guys! I haven't been able to get any info about the blowers from Shelby so I'm gunna e-mail them and Paxton again to see if I can find anything out. If I find anything I'll post it!

I'd appreciate learning from anyone's experience in setting up brackets and pulleys for an SN-89 on a Ford 200/250 six. I will use oz 2v or Classic Inlines head and intake, with supercharger on driver's side. I want a vintage setup look for my 65 Mustang. Mustangaroo did this but I can't find any current link for him. Thanks.

hello, i been watching your post have you done any thing on your s/c yet,,would like to help you out anyway i can,,,,keith

Thanks for your reply and offer. I've not yet fabricated the brackets and pulleys arrangement which is the first big hurtle for me. And, I'm trying to get in touch with a local turbo- and supercharger expert to discuss my specific needs. But, so far, I've ordered a Classic Inlines aluminum head and forged pistons. Complete specs for the head are still pending with me-haven't settled on chamber cc volume and dual valve springs or single beehive springs. Here is my tentative set up:

8.5-9.0 CR
Corteco gasket (if best for forced induction), ARP full stud set
Carburetion: Holley 2 barrel, 4 barrel or throttle body injection
Paxton SN89 supercharger, dual V belts driven-GT200 retro look
Camshaft suitable for supercharger: low to mid RPM torque, C4 automatic trans, and idle which gives reasonably good low RPM driveability (for wife!
Duraspark ignition
Forged pistons-dished (just purchased-dish volume TBD)
Stock rods, shot peened and polished
Headers, dual exhaust
215/60/15 tires
C4 auto with reprogramming kit
Std 2.83:1 differential

Any comment, advice, and opinion is appreciated.

I sent you a PM, you look like you are serious, I like that !!!!

Hi Mike,

I enjoyed talking with you (today for you,last night for me, haha). After our conversation, I looked for the photo with your cam spec sheet on the Classic Inlines site but didn't see it.

Mike

Its in the forum under aluminum cylinder head, the very last post on page 2 in the photo bucket under the topic of Check this out., Have a good day, you may want to brouse that entire topic, it has alot of info on my build. Just called and your wife said you just left for work.

Hey All, I found that Craig at Paradise Wheels had original bracket, pulleys, and tensioner set for a Falcon, so I bit the bullet and bought them. So, as commonly happens to many of us, I'm driving myself further over my original budget and intentions, but this does seem to solve most of my drive challenges. Craig was also very helpful in telling me how to do some basic hand rotational testing of my SN-89, and about scrolling it for a six application.

So, now, my next problem to solve is to make a decision on the fuel system. I feel that injection is the best solution, but the over-budget situation has me still considering carb options. Some practical advice from some members having forced induction experience is appreciated.

By the way, I took my block to a shop for inspection and measurements. After I left on a trip, they told me that there was little cylinder wear but was small rust pitting in No.1 and that I should bore the cylinders .020 to be sure o get rid of the pit(s). They also said the crank journals weren't too bad but that they could dress them up .010. I really think I want to see the cylinder and journals when I return from my trip before giving a go ahead on machining. Maybe the pit(s) can be honed out. The guy I'm buying forged pistons and strengthened rods from (Tex guy on eBay who has turbocharged a ford six) told me to be wary of shops which overcharge by doing unnecessary machine work. He said that '60s Ford blocks had a lot of nickel and were strong, and that he wouldn't worry about a small pit---most likely depends where it's located also.

Mike (Broncitis): I haven't spoken with you in awhile because I'm out of town (far out) for six weeks. But, I'm interested about what you think about fuel system options. Also, I've not been able to find your posting with cam specs, although I think I looked hard. Maybe it's deleted now. What's your phone number Mike. I don't have it with me, and maybe I can find the right time to give you a call.

Keith: What think you?

Of course, I'll be talking to Mike at Classic Inlines too. I still need to to finalize head specs with him!

Cheers, Mike

Thanks for the cam specs! Important stuff.