OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

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madmaxmarchhare
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OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #1 by madmaxmarchhare » Mon Jun 19, 2017 5:57 pm

I have the 2bbl Stromberg that came with it, but if I'm going to change it, I'd rather change it now. Any opinions on this?

Also, does anyone know a good way to use the rod linkage I have in place, or do I have to convert to a cable?

Thanks, in advance.

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #2 by xctasy » Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:27 am

Image


Fords US and Australian engineers spend money changing there design to suit the lowest cost carburation that gives good results.

What follows is a summary of each.

The Stromberg WW2 carb is made in Sidney, not Sydney. Ancient Pre 2300 Holley 2bbl era.

Its a Bendix Technico carb. And its the cheapest, nastiest 2-bbl carb around. Cutting edge 1953 Mopar/Studebaker technology.

Almost exactly the same as the Mopar 2bbl LA 318 carb, the Carter BBD,

the AMC V8 Holley 2209,
The Holley 2210, 2245....same kinda stuff.

IH used a Holley 2300 on many older 304's and 345's that was around 275-290 cfm. Later IH used the Holley 2210 on 304'a and 345's. Starting in '79 IH used the Holley 2245 on 304's.

Each year it's 2-bbl carbs got less meaner, a lot greaner, leaner and cleaner.

1. Best carb for power is always a Holley 2300 2 bbl or a 4150/4160 Holley 4bbl. They aren't always the best for fuel distribution or economy right out of the box.

2. Best carbs for economy are fine atomisers like the Rochester 2-bbl Varajet, the Fiat 1600/1800/2000 based 2-bbl Weber ADM's (used in 3.3/4.1 X flows) and a couple of the Autolite 2100 and Motorcraft 2150 2-bbls. The Holley Weber 52xx/62xx/65xx in the 235 to 280 cfm range can work, the Weber 32/36 DGAV, 38 DGES, they can be as clean or economical. The advatage with any Weber DG is that there is 100% US parts back-up, and a great depth of knowledge to tune it. The 5740 Carter Weber is too small to work.

Good other 4-bbls are the ancient Autolite 4100 series 4-bbls. Modern half breeds which can work are the Summit 4010 and 4011, revisions of the old Holley 1986-1989 4010/4011 carbs that almost took Holley out in the late 80's. The Summit carb is okay, it has Autolite 4100 parts in it, and none of the casting problems and built down to a price plastic that the ill fated Holley 4010/4011 had.

Ones that aren't bad carbs, but don't work well out of the junkyard or box are the IMCO and Thermactor era 4-bbl Autolite 4300, Motorcraft 4350, and Carter Themoquad 9600/9800s. The brand new Edlebrock 1405/1406, Carter AFB, Carter AVS, same. They can work , but you have to do some rejetting with different metering rods, reduced fuel pressure and some adaptors don't fit. These carbs all have shot gun float bowls, so they are wider and don't pacakge very well in a detachable 2V or 4V intake.


They can work, just that they need a lot of space and time to unlock there latent potential.

To a lessor extent, the the 4180C Holleys and Rochester Quadrajets. With the right vacuum line settings, the 4180C can work well. The Rochester requires a very large intake manifold adptor change, and its hard to package, like the 4300/4350/TQ/EB 1405/1406'S.



The intake manifold.

If your not going to change it by machining the innards and welding on a 4-bbl adaptor that fits and works,

then your best option is the Two Weber 32/36 DGAV or 38 DGES....Ford US and Europe has used each of these carbs on Cologne and Essex 60 degree V6's in the 109 to 160 hp range. The old Autolite 2100 or Motorcraft 2150, almost as good. Jets, power valves and idle rods and linkages, 100% good quality parts, an If the Autolite/Motorcraft K cluster has cracked well tubes, you'll need to fix them, but its found on all low power 221/255/260/289/302/351/352/360/390/400 V8's, and AMC 258 sixes/AMC 304 V8'S, and can be leaned up or down, and it works with EGR, cold start chokes, and all that seamingly complicated emissions crud is actually easy to find and to integrate.

If your going to rework to make your 2V intake a 4bbl one,

Image

then you need to be aware that the air fuel distribution and space limitations will require you to cut the spring tower brackets, and you will have to spend a lot more if its automatic to have a good downshift lever or cable.


The coarser atomised fuel droplets of the Holley 4-bbl will give great power, and 390, 465, 470, 570, 600, 650, vacuum secondary or mechanical secondary, its all able to work from a little 8.5:1 compression 390 Vac sec making 135 hp like kstangs did, or to over 200 hp with 11:1 compression, a big Clay Smith Cam, an 480 Autolite 4100 or 600cfm 4-bbl Holley like some other 2V style headed engines have.

Image

http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ ... ord-250-2v

Image

My recomendation?

Your seriously not going to rework a 2V intake.

The item on the left is an M code 170 HP 250 2V intake set up for a Holley 350 cfm 2bbl, but Matt Cox sells a good Weber 38DGES and an adaptor to suit the Weber is the same as the uni fit Rochester 2 jet to Weber.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adapter-Plat ... 1815134804

Image

On the right, is the rare 164 HP 221 SP intake for the Argentine head. Basically, the world over, the Ford Six has been experimented with and modified. Just Do it! Take the left bow, do the first steps, and later on, look at a better intake.


Image

The European 2.5/2.8/3.0 V6's ran wonderfully with just a 38 DGES type Weber, a match for the 1.14 Motorcraft, both normally about 300 cfm, and able to make 135 to 140 hp with 165 to 175 lb-ft in those little sizes. Adding the 50% extra capacity of a 200 or 250 to it, and you'll race up to 185 hp and 225 lb-ft fairly easily. Past that it pays to look at the 500 cfm Holley (a 1.38 venturi carb), or the Motorcraft 1.21/1.23/Autolite 1.33.
Last edited by xctasy on Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:10 am, edited 3 times in total.
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #3 by madmaxmarchhare » Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:54 am

Thank you for that information!

Ok, so what I get out of that is that it's probably best to go with the 38 DG?S series (probably E so that I can make my own life easier and ditch the manual choke). Also, what about mounting it? Will it bolt straight up?

What about the rod linkage? Any way I can keep that in place and still use it?

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #4 by xctasy » Wed Jun 21, 2017 2:12 am

madmaxmarchhare wrote:Thank you for that information!

Ok, so what I get out of that is that it's probably best to go with the 38 DG?S series (probably E so that I can make my own life easier and ditch the manual choke). Also, what about mounting it? Will it bolt straight up?

What about the rod linkage? Any way I can keep that in place and still use it?

Not really, everythings so inter-related. I like Keith from Tennessee's post on http://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2256.

The Redline K740 adaptor, with the old 4AC Tercyl throttle looks perfect. With a cable throttle, it'll work fine.


The Small base Rochester 2 Jet is the same base as the Stromberg WW2. K494 or K551-38

This is the kit. http://www.jameng.com/products/Jeep-38- ... 5-CID.html



You could use a Rochester 2 jet 2CG and the existing rod linkage :hmmm:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=68151



The 38 and 32/36 has a standard Pinto/ Capri linkage which is easy to get hold of, and they have a kickdown lever if you are going C4 automtic.

There is also a 4bbl adaptor plate, but its quite tall.

Image

Image

Image
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #5 by xctasy » Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:19 pm

Your not this "madmaxmarchhare"?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11301
madmaxmarchhare wrote:Hello.

Before I start, here are my specs:
'73 Australian Ford Falcon XA, 250 loghead intake with a wheezy 1bbl Stromberg carb (BOV? something)

I'm currently ready to swap my Stromberg out with a more capable carb. Additionally, I'm a newbie to all of this, so this will be a learning experience for me. I'm slowly upgrading my engine, as I learn about each part, and right now, it's the carburetor.

Does anyone have any suggestions for having a stronger carb that will adjust to my engine as I replace parts such as the head to a 2V, cams, etc. etc.? I'm happy to go with rebuilt, as long it's something I can still get parts for with relative ease.

Thanks, in advance.

Makoto
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #6 by xctasy » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:12 pm

Matt Cox has over 200 parts on offer. The 2V is a little bit different becausethere is no Ford Weber kit for it in the US or Australia.


Going 2300 2-BBL Holley often means you can't use the right parts to get the carb low enough, and its not an emissions carb, and doesn't take some of the good tuning stuff that a Weber 38 can. In any avent the linkage would be a little more effort with a Holley due to the throttle lever hitting the base of the intake manifold. Adding a spacer just pushes the carb up quite high.

Suggestion is this.

258 cid 4.0 ltr, 4.2 ltr ALL w/ 2bl Carter BBD, which is the Stromberg WW2 carb base.

https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product-p/wk551-38.htm

This is the adaptor to use. But it comes with a carb...

Matt Cox sells the carb too...

Some Jeep guys might have just the adaptor kit.
The Carter BBD is a really excellent carb, but its not friendly in your 2v 250, it has linkage and metering rod and set up issues which requires some time and effort.

The Weber 38 DGES is a fit and forget proposition if you use the right parts. Its big enough for 185 hp, and as long as the fuel pressure is wound down, and due car is given to the float level and PCV requirments, its the right carb for power and economy. It will require the odd idle jet clean out, and that's the only negative to it. The linkages and all the other stuff, easy peasey.

The carb is short, and it takes two carb to manifold base adaptors to fit it.

What works for a 250 2V is what works for a 258 2-bbl Weber 38 Jeep.

45 idle jets
1.85mm idle air bleeds
145 main jets
165 air corrector jets
F7 emulsion tubes


See https://www.vintageinlines.com/all-products


Best air cleaner is the SKU: FSP-200-OAC oval air cleaner which takes the SKU: SPE-200-OFC Oval Air Cleaner Replacement Filter-Cotton.

To fit it, use the SKU: WEB-DGV-ACB weber to Holley 2v/4v base, and you should have just enough room.

Igntion, go Duraspark II, and set it up like the Jeep guys do, but use the bigger Ford distributor cap.

Matt Cox's DUI's can work, but you'll need it recurved. He suuplies a Dursapark kit too. The key thing is this is what suppliers have given Matt a great, sharp price for. There are issues compared to other ignitions, not everyone aggrees on the best options. We call it Ford Six Performance, but its often just Ford Six Replacements, lol.

wsa111 would be your best option on a suitable ignition.

For setting up a Weber 38 DGES, the Jeep guys are the best advice. The 258 uses a 2V 250 STYLE CARB, a Ford Duraspark II ignition that has a cap that cross fires, but they have the best return line fuel filters, and the best advice around, and John Strenk AND SWATSON454 do it all. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber ... ndex1.html , but its a 12 pager.


Regards the cylinder head......

IMHO, you don't wanna blow your budget on the head.

Going over size on the intake valve will instantly push the builder into doing the exhaust, and there isn't the metal to clear a 1.5" exhaust valve, it doesn't matter if others have.

Stock intake was 1.647". Over seas (here!) the ding bats always up the intake valve size, then the exhaust with Holden XT5 202 or 253/304/308 Yella Terra valves.

So my advice? Curtail any extra spending this instant, and go back to stock intake and exhaust valves, and the valve guides that are cheapest.

You'd be okay with US valves of the 1.65/1.48 size with the US valve guide size to avoid costs and problems.

Then fit a carb your happy with. (Weber 38 is best in your case)

Exhaust gaskets required

Classic Inlines Header Gasket
SKU: COR-200-HEG

Duraspark II Ignition Kit
SKU: FSP-200-DSII-K
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #7 by madmaxmarchhare » Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:33 am

Ok.. this is all making sense. I can certainly go stock on the intake and exhaust and go with the 38/38 kit. I'll have to read more carefully about the linkage since my brain is in "rest mode" and can't wrap itself around everything that was there..

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #8 by madmaxmarchhare » Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:51 am

xctasy wrote:Your not this "madmaxmarchhare"?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11301
madmaxmarchhare wrote:Hello.

Before I start, here are my specs:
'73 Australian Ford Falcon XA, 250 loghead intake with a wheezy 1bbl Stromberg carb (BOV? something)

I'm currently ready to swap my Stromberg out with a more capable carb. Additionally, I'm a newbie to all of this, so this will be a learning experience for me. I'm slowly upgrading my engine, as I learn about each part, and right now, it's the carburetor.

Does anyone have any suggestions for having a stronger carb that will adjust to my engine as I replace parts such as the head to a 2V, cams, etc. etc.? I'm happy to go with rebuilt, as long it's something I can still get parts for with relative ease.

Thanks, in advance.

Makoto


That IS me, yes.. from... WAY WAY back in the day when I was planning this the first time around.. then a move, divorce, and subsequent poorness put all of this on hold.. for a decade...

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #9 by madmaxmarchhare » Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:56 am

xctasy wrote:
258 cid 4.0 ltr, 4.2 ltr ALL w/ 2bl Carter BBD, which is the Stromberg WW2 carb base.

https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product-p/wk551-38.htm

This is the adaptor to use. But it comes with a carb...


Ok.. this is what I'll go with, then.. looks fun...

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #10 by xctasy » Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:18 am

Throttle cable

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1808&p=12982#p12982
Mustangaroo wrote:Go to the bone yard and locate a 1978 or later fairmont throttle cable linkage, including the pedal! if you still have the log head it will work just fine, if you have a aussie 2v head it will be about 7 inches short, and then you will have to replace the cable and make it longer to fit the length you need!


Best advice on valves

Bold and red high lighting underlining mine
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1053&p=7525#p7525
CZLN6 wrote:Howdy Slade and All:

If you're already doing a performance valve job, then by all means go with the 1.75" intakes. The three angle valve job will make the biggest difference over the factory one angle seat and valve cut. Next in value would be to smooth the transitions from milled to cast surfaces in the valve pocket. Then, a 4th back cut angle on the port side of the intake valves. And then spend some time smoothing and polishing the chamber.

For your purposes, a 1.75" intake and a 1.38" exhaust is pretty good. This exhaust is 78% of the intake size, which is pretty good. Any larger size valves in an engine with a bore this small would see marginal returns and mainly at higher rpms and at highest lifts. With the 3.68" to 3.72" bore it is very difficult to realistically (in terms of money and value in return) get bigger than 1.75" intake and 1.5" exhaust.

For street and general use, we don't back cut the exhaust and leave the margin a little wider, at .100", to help with heat transfer to the head. We've used 144 1.467" intake valves as exhaust valves with good results, so far.We have shunned 1.5" chevy valves because of the extra machining required to get them to fit, and because of the small bore and inherent shrouding. Milling will help to unshroud, by dropping the valve a little deeper into the cylinder.

Cutting the head to accomodate a 1.75" intake is not a big deal and should not cost an additional $100.

Anlushac11- I'd sure like to know a source for a 1.75" small stem Stainless Steel valve to fit our sixes? Please let me know where to find it? I had heard that Clifford was getting stainless steel intake and exhaust in 1.88" and 1.50" from SSI, but have had no luck in finding since Eric parted with Clifford. If we could source these valves direct from SSI it may be a feesible option.

Adios, David


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1052&p=7524#p7524

CZLN6 wrote:Howdy All:

The biggest limitations in larger valve size is due to the small 3.68" bore. In unsrhouding, be sure to not exceed the bore of the cylinder or you wil have gaset sealing problems.

If the $250 total includes the 3 angle, milling and cutting and installing larger 1.75" intakes and back cutting the port side, that's not too bad. Are you going to have a port divider welded in? Now is the best time to do it.

Your '67 head will likley be the smaller 52 cc chambers so measure and plan carefully before you mill, to achieve your goal CR.

Adios, David



Go to the US valve guide sizes.

Go US 1,75" SI intake if they will machine the valve pockets for a small fee.
Old 144 1.467" intake valves are very high quality steel, and your best option if you can find them.

That gives you a margin for protecting your investment. Going to 1.5" exhaust valves is a very bad idea, but people get away with it. Jimbo65, discontinued user with a GT replica 1965 Stang with 2V 250 head, found out about the first cylinder having insufficent metal for a 1.5" exhaust valve. His engine builder sonar rayed the pocket and found the issue. Its a typical 2V 250 head issue. US heads have more metal in that intake and exhaust pocket and seat area, less everywhere else.
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #11 by xctasy » Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:37 am

Okay, don't take any drugs after this...just some help. CobraSix Slade has over 4214 posts, so I'm not suggesting you read everyone...

See viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2930


Jimbo 65 is a discontInued user from Arizona, birthday of 29th day of 7month....but Slade (CobraSix) talked to him often (all the time!) during the 2v 250 rebuild. In August 2003, Slade decided to move from a triple carb tripower to 2V 250 head, so they networked on getting there engines rebuilt. Both married, dealing with the same kind of life issues we married (or formely married) people deal with....

Jimbo 65 had a 130 amp alternator, and a fully rebuilt rope seal 200, and problems with making his 350 cfm 2v headed 200 idle due to the alternator and rope seal load on the engine at idle.


But it was an epic car. Because he's a professional video editor, his time was precious, so he opted out of FordSix.Com, but his rebuild was very well done.

You can rope onto his posts by isolating CobraSix's 85 pages of posts


(see memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=48, and find his first posts at page 85, and work back to present day, they started communing at page 80 to 76 )





looking for any post with Slade saying Jimbo in it...

page 76

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5423

Guest wrote:Dang, I am not sure about all of you, but I looked at swapping in a V8 and I could have gotten a new engine and T5 with gears plus the steering and brake upgrade, wheels and tires, and some other performance goodies.....

And Guess what....

Probably would have spent the EXACT SAME AMOUNT!!!! :D :D :D :D

Maybe less :shock:


Who knows, but I love my six and it was worth every penny...
Or it will be once it is on the road again, soooon. :cry:

But honestly, I know I will never get what I put in back, but I don't plan to sell anytime soon.... my scars must either fade or be removed first.

I am never complaining when I state that I spent more on the six than I would have a Cheapo V8, I LOVE THAT.



Honestly, it's entirely up to you, but I say find a V8 car and start there, at least honor the six that is was. :cry:



page 74


/viewtopic.php?t=5783&highlight=throttle+cable
Guest wrote:Yo Man!!!

I got everything off a 78 Fairmont..

Pedal, Hardware, cable, engine bracket (that goes over the valve cover)....
(All from a yard in Arizona... 25 bucks to my door...)

Then I trimmed the pedal bracket about 3/4" because it was too long..
mounted that, ran the cable through the firewall and to the engine bracket(which also holds some other lines nicely...) and to the carb.
(I had to get a longer cable since this is on an Aussie 2v... but that was no problem.. you can even use Bike cable)

This is Mustangaroo's setup... he downloaded everything to me a while back...
Worked great for under $40.00 for everything.

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/Aussie202.jpg>

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/motor040.jpg>

<img src=http://www.image-hosting.net/images/messageboard/jbowhall/motor014.jpg>


CobraSix to Jimbo65, Page 71

Duraspark II igntion discussion (most wrong, talk to wsa111)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7598&p=52750#p52750
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #12 by xctasy » Sat Jun 24, 2017 7:52 am

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73869&p=568243#p568243

strat1960s wrote:Way back when, probably almost 9 years ago, when I went with the Oz head and Weber 38DGAS carb, I ran the Lokar throttle and kickdown cables and pedal.
Universal / Adjustable Throttle Cable 0625TC-1000U36 $32.99
Trans Kick-Down Cable 0625KD-20C4HT $53.99
Billet Alum Gas Pedal 0625BAG-6004 89.99
Riser (Lokar pt. #) GPS-6014 $30.00 (+/-)
(Note: the prices are about 9 yrs old, they may have changed over the yrs.)


Frankenstang: 65 Mustang, 68 200 I6 block, Oz head, port/polish/spin balance, FSP roller rockers, DUI dizzy, Clifford dual headers w/ port divider, Isky 262 cam, Weber 38 DGAS 2bbl Carb, Lokar throttle and kick down cable conversion, A/R 4-lug Outlaw II rims, Painless harness.
I always have fun. Sometimes are more fun than others.


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31540&p=231485#p231485
strat1960s wrote:Douglas,

Welcome to our group. Here is a list of the components I have put into my inline 6. In addition to these components, I had the motor rebuilt to include the port and polish and spin balancing. I hope this helps give you a few ideas. I couldn't find the information on it, but I am also running the roller rockers that AZ coujpe sells.



Dual out headers Motor 53-0186 Clifford Performance 1-909-303-2333 $279.00

Weber Carb Kit Motor 08-K-202 Clifford Performance 1-909-303-2333 $499.00

Austrailian Head with Intake

throttle cable Motor 0625TC-1000U36 Jegs 800-345-4545 $32.99

Trans kickdown cable Motor / trans 0625KD-20C4HT Jegs 800-345-4545 $53.99

Gas Pedal Motor 0625BAG-6004 Jegs 800-345-4545 14-Sep-03 $89.99
Gas pedal spacer Motor 0625GPS-6014 Jegs $18.99

Good luck with the build up, I look forward to reading about it.

Ted
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #13 by madmaxmarchhare » Sat Jun 24, 2017 3:15 pm

xctasy wrote:Go US 1,75" SI intake if they will machine the valve pockets for a small fee.
Old 144 1.467" intake valves are very high quality steel, and your best option if you can find them.


The machinist suggested larger intakes, but finding ones with these specs I have not been able to do:

Head Diameter
1.649 (1.75 adjusted) Intake
1.388 Exhaust
Stem Diameter
0.342
0.341
Stem Length
4.266
4.278
Tip Length
0.218
0.224

If I give this guy these specs, can he get or machine the valves, himself? Also, what about the springs?

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #14 by madmaxmarchhare » Sat Jun 24, 2017 3:45 pm

Also, some trailing questions:

Would the head bolt kit for either a 200 US or 250 US fit the OZ head?

What about the head gasket, itself?

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #15 by xctasy » Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:17 am

madmaxmarchhare wrote:Also, some trailing questions:

Would the head bolt kit for either a 200 US or 250 US fit the OZ head?

What about the head gasket, itself?



Go to the US valve guide sizes. They are 0.3125"

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=73826&p=567940#p567940

George66Falcon wrote:Hey there, gents! I'm trying to track down some valve stem seals for a 250 2v head. Do you folks know what they came with stock? I've tried installing 11/32 rubber umbrella type seals, but they make a disconcerting clicking noise that just doesn't sound right...


IIRC right, I think the US market Sunbeam Alpine or Hillman Cricket valve guides are the same external diameter in the head, then same 5/16 0.3125" diameter at the valve.

You don't have to follow the larger valve guides the 2V 250 used, the US 170/200/250 used tiny 5/16" 0.3125 stem valves in the 20 odd years it was produced. Ford Australia just decided to use the bigger valve diameter because suppliers offered them a good rate, and it standardised the largrer guides and allowed them to downgrade the valve material.

Going to 0.315 allows any US valve size. SI make 1.75" in the 0.3125" stem size. The OEM 144 intake valve is 0.3125" stem, and really good as an exhaust valve.


Stock US bolt kit fits the OZ head.


A 60 thou planed head with a Victor Reinz US 200/250 gasket will work fine too.
Last edited by xctasy on Mon Jun 26, 2017 12:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #16 by madmaxmarchhare » Sun Jun 25, 2017 4:23 pm

xctasy wrote:
madmaxmarchhare wrote:Also, some trailing questions:

Would the head bolt kit for either a 200 US or 250 US fit the OZ head?

What about the head gasket, itself?



Go to the US valve guide sizes. They are 0.3125"

IIRC right, I think the US market Sunbeam Alpine or Hillman Cricket valve guides are the same external diameter in the head, then same 5/16 0.3125" diameter at the valve.

You don't have to follow the larger valve guides the 2V 250 used, the US 170/200/250 used tiny 5/16" 0.3125 stem valves in the 20 odd years it was produced. Ford Australia just decided to use the bigger valve diameter because suppliers offered them a good rate, and it standardised the largrer guides and allowed them to downgrade the valve material.

Going to 0.315 allows any US valve size. SI make 1.75" in the 0.3125" stem size. The OEM 144 intake valve is 0.3125" stem, and really good as an exhaust valve.


Stock US bolt kit fits the OZ head.


A 60 thou planed head with a Victor Reinz US 200/250 gasket will work fine too.


Okey-dokey! I'll get all of this stuff ordered and let everyone know how the machining went after I get back! Thanks tons! It'll be a swap and then after that... the throttle linkage.. which I'm not looking forward to... at all... in any way...

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Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #17 by xctasy » Sun Jun 25, 2017 7:51 pm

Wait a moment...... :hmmm: Is your ride still '73 Australian Ford Falcon XA with Right Hand Drive?

Depending on the type, depends on the issues.

The Australian Falcon system is simplicity itself to organise, especially if still RHD.

Do you have a C4 automatic
or Borg Warner 35 automatic,
or is it a stick shift floorchange
or 3 on the tree manual?

The carb linkage, well, you can just copy the thousands of Jap Toyota to Weber cable conversions, 95% of the throttle linkage stays the way it is, really easy peasy...

PM some pictures if you are able, not hard for XA's.

You just need some one to help out..... :nod:
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

madmaxmarchhare
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Posts: 42
Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:28 pm

Re: OZ 2V 250 .. what carby? Also, what about the linkage?

Post #18 by madmaxmarchhare » Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:46 pm

xctasy wrote:Wait a moment...... :hmmm: Is your ride still '73 Australian Ford Falcon XA with Right Hand Drive?

Depending on the type, depends on the issues.

The Australian Falcon system is simplicity itself to organise, especially if still RHD.

Do you have a C4 automatic
or Borg Warner 35 automatic,
or is it a stick shift floorchange
or 3 on the tree manual?

The carb linkage, well, you can just copy the thousands of Jap Toyota to Weber cable conversions, 95% of the throttle linkage stays the way it is, really easy peasy...

PM some pictures if you are able, not hard for XA's.

You just need some one to help out..... :nod:


It is a '73 XA, yes, and I'd totally love some help! It's three-on-the-tree manual, although I'd love to change it to a 5-speed on the floor... either way, the latter wish isn't going to happen right now..

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