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1956 Chevy 235ci

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63stl_comet
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1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #1 by 63stl_comet » Tue Sep 28, 2010 2:25 am

So a supervisor at works needs me to come over and get his car to run. The story goes like this, he knows little about cars and has had this 1956 Chevy of his dads for years and is starting to restore it. The motor ran but smoked a lot so he pulled the head and had it rebuilt. In the meantime he pulled the pistons and re_ringed the motor. after reinstalling the head he pulled the distributor to prime the oil system. Now the car runs really rough with about a 2000rpm idle. He says he thinks the valves are set pretty good. He doesn't know about the timing though. I am unfamiliar with this motor and not really sure where to start. He has also adjust the idle screw on the carburetor and doesn't know where it was initially set, but says nothing he did changed they way the car ran. He adjusted the idle screw on the carb and turned the distributor timing back and forth and nothing changed.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian.
Stl Greaser.
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1962 Comet 170 2 speed all original(sold)
1963 Comet 250 T5 manual
2003 Subaru WRX 2.0 turbo
2001 Suzuki GSXR 750
1977 Kawasaki KZ 400 Cafe racer

Lazy JW
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #2 by Lazy JW » Tue Sep 28, 2010 5:39 pm

On something like this where a novice has been monkeying around with things you really have to start with the VERY basics and work your way up from there.
#1. Compression check. That will tell you if the valves, rings, and cam timing are in the ballpark. If the compression is all wacko, you do NOT have an engine that can be tuned.
#2. Points. Condenser. Wires. Cap. Rotor. Plugs. All MUST be in order.
#3. Check the voltage and polarity at the coil. Do not assume it to be correct.
#4. Now you can set the basic timing and go from there.
#5. Once it idles where it should, check the manifold vacuum.
#6. Now you can do the fancy stuff like check the total advance.
Have fun,
Joe
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
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69.5Mav
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #3 by 69.5Mav » Tue Oct 05, 2010 4:17 pm

Sounds to me like the timing is way off along with the carb.

Thes engines did not use a Balenser timing mark. They had a hole in the passenger side of the bell housing plate and some marks stampted on the flywheel. If I remember right from 40 years ago the triangle was top dead center.

It does not sound like he messed with the cam. The cam had a gear on it not a chain so no chain stretch to wory about.

You could try rotating the distributor while the engin is running to try and find a timing thats close then time with a lite.

If I remeber correctly this engine did not have a pressurised crank but it had a gallery of squirters that shot oil at the rod journals which had a pick up on them. If so them I would advise dumping this finicky set up and getting a later model block, a '61 or '62. He could even hunt up a 261 which would give a bost in performance and was a more robust engine.

Good Luck

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Fred
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #4 by Fred » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:30 pm

Starting in 54 all 235 motors had full pressure lube. Check valve clearances first, then follow Joe's advice to the letter. If the valves are set too tight (not enough clearance) the motor runs like crap.
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1937 Ford fordor sedan
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MustangSix
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #5 by MustangSix » Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:31 am

It's been a while, but I think that the old 216 and 235 had sheet metal rings that located the intake gasket and intake. If those got tossed, you'll get a vacuum leak when nothing lines up.
Jack Collins

69.5Mav
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #6 by 69.5Mav » Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:55 am

MustangSix wrote:It's been a while, but I think that the old 216 and 235 had sheet metal rings that located the intake gasket and intake. If those got tossed, you'll get a vacuum leak when nothing lines up.


You are correct MustangSix, good call. Ask me how I know. The intake and exhast are bolted together and the combined weight (all cast iron) makes it nearly impossible to line up and get seal without them.

69.5Mav
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #7 by 69.5Mav » Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:24 am

Any Progress?

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63stl_comet
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #8 by 63stl_comet » Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:06 pm

None yet. Our schedules have not aligned to allow me to get over ther to work on it any.
Stl Greaser.

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1962 Comet 170 2 speed all original(sold)

1963 Comet 250 T5 manual

2003 Subaru WRX 2.0 turbo

2001 Suzuki GSXR 750

1977 Kawasaki KZ 400 Cafe racer

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80broncoman
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #9 by 80broncoman » Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:45 pm

63stl_comet wrote:None yet. Our schedules have not aligned to allow me to get over ther to work on it any.


Its that time,...to test the coolant for freeze temp. I'd do this pronto.
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When it come to engines If its .001 loose nobody knows, But if its .001 too tight EVERYBODY KNOWS!!
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69.5Mav
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #10 by 69.5Mav » Sat Oct 30, 2010 10:32 pm

I just saw the end of Horse Power TV on Spike at 11:30 AM PST and they were rebuilding a 235. It will be rebroadcast on 10-31-2010 for any one interested

69.5Mav
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Re: 1956 Chevy 235ci

Post #11 by 69.5Mav » Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:42 pm

Any Progress?

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