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How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #51 by MustangDadDrake » Sat May 16, 2020 9:59 pm

The new seal was installed but they did not remove the pin so it was going to leak. I removed the pin with a 3/32 punch.

I already have a felpro seal I got from advance auto parts so I am going to try that if I can't find an NOS seal on ebay. Usually everywhere I read hates on the rope seal so this is interesting to hear.

B RON CO, I think my bearing looks pretty good looks gray as you said. See the pictures below. I also updated the google album so you can see how awful that gasket on the oil pan was.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MgWpSdZJw8qyvwVo7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9E6XwpPzFPgefRS69

Link to full album
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n9MDfLroGJfaFYVD7bnb
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #52 by MustangDadDrake » Sun May 17, 2020 9:42 pm

I installed the seal today but not sure I am happy with it and may redo it.

I put the top half in the car and as I was pushing it through some of the rubber seal shaved off, not much but some. I pulled that one out and then tried the other one and it went in better and i gently tapped with a punch to push it the rest of the way. Then I put the slightly shaved one in the cap and bolted it down to spec.

When I went back under to check it out I saw a drop of oil coming down from the rear cap. The oil was the new oil from when I lubbed the seals.

Should I redo the whole thing with a new seal or am I over thinking this. My gut says to redo it. :?
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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bubba22349
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #53 by bubba22349 » Mon May 18, 2020 12:15 am

Did you do as Econline had suggested in his above post? IE by loosening all the main cap so the rear of the crankshaft could drop down a little as well as unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate and pushing it back against the front pump? Agin this is so the crankshaft can drop down a little. Did you happen to take pictures of the oils seals condition? The Ford rear seals had a factory recommend spec on their installation. They are to be installed so the seal ends are staggered / clocked about a 1/4 inch so the ends aren't lined up with the main caps parting line. A little dab of silacon is used on the seal ends and the corner of main caps. If not then you might want to try it again. Best of luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #54 by MustangDadDrake » Mon May 18, 2020 6:26 pm

Ok so I didnt follow Econoline's directions exactly...

I loosened the bolts from back to front and after i would loosen one pair I would try to slide the seal in I got about half way before I was able to slide it in.

please confirm: So when I loosen all the bolts this time to do it right will the crank shaft drop (probably with the help of my rubber mallet). then i will be able to turn the crank shaft with my hand and guide the seal around without scraping the seal.

dumb question: rotating the crankshaft wont alter the timing or anything on the top end correct?

looking at the shop manual I am not quite sure where the sealer should go. see photo below with the blue lines. I did have the seals offset but i did not add sealer to the end because the sealer package said not to.

When i took the cap off the first time this is what I saw, seal was damaged.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qyjDBAqHvS4ee7Ly5

Is this where I put the sealer?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ukiNRcgTtmSQNtoi8

another dumb question. these are the bolts I loosen for the flex plate to drop the crank??
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UgraELwcQELLLZYw7

This is how I installed the seal with about 1/4" sticking out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FNyicGMz2vbuFzoUA

Here are the new rockers installed!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SdcqibwPVyPB2sWF8
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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B RON CO
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #55 by B RON CO » Mon May 18, 2020 7:38 pm

Hi, the offset looks good.
You found the 4 nuts on the torque converter converter. Remove them and push the torque converter in towards the tranny.
I have good luck applying silicone gasket maker sparingly, according to my Chilton's Manual: Put a thin line of sealer on the engine block, on the outsides of the sunken part, where the cap will sit into. Just a little line of sealer, from the very back of the block, forward just to stop at the second groove for the slinger part of the crank. Since you are working from the bottom, this will be above the oil pan rail.
I just put a small dab of sealer on each side of the bearing cap, at the edge, in line with the seal, to 1/8" away from the new seal.
Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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bubba22349
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #56 by bubba22349 » Mon May 18, 2020 8:03 pm

X2 Yes when all mains are loosened up enough usally more at the rear than the front. When the crank swings down enough about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch the seal should slide right in without needing to turn the crank. No your timing won't change if you needed to turn the crank. Yes as B Ron Co stated already on the sealer apply. The rocker arm assembly looks great can't wait to hear how good runs now from all your hard work. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #57 by wsa111 » Mon May 18, 2020 9:33 pm

So far so good, lets hope no leaks.
If so just pull the engine & do it from the top side.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6425CL & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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MustangDadDrake
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #58 by MustangDadDrake » Sat May 23, 2020 11:16 pm

Ok got the new seal and put it in yesterday. Loosened all the bolts this time and was able to slide the rear main seal in without shaving any of it off. I think I applied the sealer properly...

Feel pretty good about it. Need to order some new oil pan bolts and I think one of my bolt holes is stripped from the guys that did the repair last so I’ll have to dig into that. Also going to replace the pump and screen. Will be a while for those parts come in but I’ll keep updating.

I’ll be painting the oil pan as I wait.

http://cubeupload.com/im/Drakesbigday/4 ... 58A82.jpeg

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1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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chad
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rear main & pan gaskets

Post #59 by chad » Sun May 24, 2020 1:56 am

if U want, glue the gasket lightly onto the pan. B4 doing so place pan on known flat plate (or use straight edge). Assure flatness, Tap w/hammer if needed to reshape, then use correct gasket snot to pan. One (or 11 - 13) pencils (due to conical shape) can center bolt holes on pan B4 dried. Now (read tube for hardness time) put up pan but do not over tighten and (just like V/C top side) use 'finger tight'. Then go back do each 1/4, go back feel tightness to go another 1/8 to one 1/4 again (glue applied to only pan side). U can bend them outta shape (v/c and pan) so they leak. Pan & vc are just to protect and press gaskets to the other surface so as not to leak, not to even compress the gasket it's full collapse (unlike head gasked U really wanna s q u i s h) ...

Sorry, 'glue is not correct term. Theres so many (exotics I call them) of the chems-ina-tube now days I gettem mixed up. "Better living thru chemistry" hada different meaning in my day, & there wuz only 3 or 4...
:shock:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #60 by MustangDadDrake » Sun May 24, 2020 11:00 am

Ahhhh Chad thank you.

After reading your post I realized I made a mistake and did not let the sealer on the rear main to cure an hour before I torqued to spec.

I need to pull it off again and redo it. Taking it off and on doesn’t damage the seal right? Don’t feel like buying another one haha. It’s not like a gasket right?
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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rear main, pan gaskets

Post #61 by chad » Sun May 24, 2020 12:43 pm

"...doesn’t damage the seal right..."
no, might leak; doubtful, 50/50 tho.

My comment wuz 4 the PAN gasket~
(these kids 2day R so fast I can't keep up wid dem. Yeah, even w/a wife'n kidsa ur own...I call em kids upto 67 y/o) My age :shock:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #62 by bubba22349 » Sun May 24, 2020 3:27 pm

MustangDadDrake wrote:Ahhhh Chad thank you.

After reading your post I realized I made a mistake and did not let the sealer on the rear main to cure an hour before I torqued to spec.

I need to pull it off again and redo it. Taking it off and on doesn’t damage the seal right? Don’t feel like buying another one haha. It’s not like a gasket right?


:shock: Ahh no Drake, you didn't make a mistake! You wouldn't ever want the sealer to cure before the assembly, you apply it and quicly assemble it, then let cure. The whole point of even using that small amount of silicone is to try and make a little better seal at those parting lines and after its cured its to late to do that. On your stripped block treads for the oil pan bolt you can use a helicoil kit to fix that. Oh any to your other question on seal generally you wont usally damage it taking it apart a few times before its put into use, however do examin its sealing surface (the lip) to be sure. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited

1. After you have disassembled and discovered what is wrong.
2. Start to form your plan for the repair job.
3. Ask your questions on items or procedures that your unsure of.
4. Compare the answers you receive to your questions.
5. Decide from the answers you receive on how you want to proceed.
6. Start the repair and take your time on your reassembly.
7. If you run into any problems or are unsure how to proceed stop until you know why.
8. Now that you know the why you can complete the job.

After you gain more experience your jobs will also go much quicker. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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chad
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #63 by chad » Sun May 24, 2020 10:08 pm

"...will...go much quicker..."
aahahahaaa, I wuz thinkin much slower.
I like this 8 step approach tho bubs !
BTW 3 & 4 I'd add "ck in w/ ford6" LOL
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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bubba22349
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #64 by bubba22349 » Mon May 25, 2020 2:18 am

:beer: Chad I guess I only implied it in the 3. Point on asking questions, :shock: but were else can you find these great answers supply'ed by all our knowledgeable site members.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #65 by MustangDadDrake » Tue May 26, 2020 3:16 pm

bubba22349 wrote:
1. After you have disassembled and discovered what is wrong.
2. Start to form your plan for the repair job.
3. Ask your questions on items or procedures that your unsure of.
4. Compare the answers you receive to your questions.
5. Decide from the answers you receive on how you want to proceed.
6. Start the repair and take your time on your reassembly.
7. If you run into any problems or are unsure how to proceed stop until you know why.
8. Now that you know the why you can complete the job.

After you gain more experience your jobs will also go much quicker. :thumbup: :nod:


This is beautiful, thank you. On this project especially I was kind of all over the place and I get nervous when messing with the engine because I don't fully understand things sometimes.

This is a simple and power plan of attack that I will apply to my current project and all future ones.

Lastly, I really appreciate all of you looking out for me and helping me. I would be so lost without you all. So a huge thank you! I am a youngster who is thankful for all the guidance.
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list: have fun and learn new things

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chad
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How is my engine? Valve Cover off and Compression Results

Post #66 by chad » Tue May 26, 2020 11:11 pm

"...for me and helping me..."
It would not happen w/o ur willingness. That intention (just something frm the mind) is what took U thru to the end. Not a coupla duffers ona web site. Some will not pick up the tools, some sit'n whine, etc. I taught at the YW, just simple - tune ups, how to change oil, flat tire, etc. Most of them (now this wuz the early '70s) had been inculturated 'that wuz man's wrk', "we can not do it". But just a lill finger point and some supervision for safety and these folks 'went at it". No experience, no understanding, but the willingness. This will take U far my brother !
Now U have built some understanding, experience, confidence. If there is no Chilton's, Haynes, 'the Handbook', use of above 'tech archive' that might B nxt. I usually get myself into almost more trouble than I can get myself out of. These sources help me stay on that edge. I grow when I get w/those who are a lill (or alot) beyond me.
Keep goin, don't stop now~
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), '69 250ci, NV 3550 & DSII, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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