Hey all, for more power on my 200 CI for my 1965 Mustang I decided to bore out the cylinders to .030 put in the over sized pistons and rings. I also had the shop I took it too resurface the head, block and go through the valves. I installed Hastings 586030 piston rings, with the jims piston band compressor took following the instruction manual found in the Hastings instruction manual. Going to start the car it just wouldn't start. I then ran a compression test and saw the numbers where 150 across the board except for cylinder number 1 which was 125. I cranked over the car to try and get it started but when it wouldn't start I re ran my original compression test and saw that the compression dropped to 110 PSI on cylinder 1 while ever other cylinder remained about the same. Does any one have advice on what this may be?
All Small Six 200 Rebuild
- Thread starter A1aman
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Hi A1aman, Dose your 1965 200 Six happen to have the adjustable type Rocker Arms on it?
All these Ford Small Six engine's will have a single shaft that all the Rocker Arms Ride on, there are two main types. In the First Picture below are the stock Ford 1.5 Ratio Adjustable Type Rocker Arm Assembly. Notice the Adjustment Screw's on the Push Rod side of the Rocker Arm? In the Second Picture are one of the more common stock Ford 1.5 Ratio Non Adjustable Type Rocker Arm Assembly. If yours happens to have a set of the adjustable type than it's easy for many first timers to get the Rocker Arms Adjusted to tight causing uneven Cranking Compression from the valve being held open some. Good luck. Edited to add the example Rocker Arm Assembly Pictures.
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Hi, there are many reasons why any motor won't start. Does the engine just spin, or does it backfire? Are you sure you have good spark and fuel? Does the rotor point at #1 when the timing marks line up? Are you sure the distributor is not 180* off? Start checking the basic stuff. Good luck
Whatever you do, make sure that you have a good working oil pressure gage, and you have good oil pressure when the engine is running.
Congrats on finding out the problem! Another fix is to use a set of shorter Push Rods they also came in .060 shorter length.
You can get adjustable push rods.
ora single to use as measurer.
Then compare costs/choice of methods
of each ( correct length PR v Shim Up towers).
"...resurface the head, block..."
How Much was Taken Off? how'd it run B4 the disassembly & machining?
Did U inspect/measure @ that time?
110 v 150 psi seems extreme (close to that 10% rule)?
Then compare costs/choice of methods
of each ( correct length PR v Shim Up towers).
"...resurface the head, block..."
How Much was Taken Off? how'd it run B4 the disassembly & machining?
Did U inspect/measure @ that time?
110 v 150 psi seems extreme (close to that 10% rule)?
Just know that if you shim the stands up that you will change the rocker geometry, maybe for the good or maybe for the worst. It is not the right way to do it unless you know that it will improve the factory set geometry, but if they sunk the valves it the head alot, not good, then maybe that is a work around to fix a bad deal. Shorter pushrods or adjustable rockers with the right pushrods would be best on a good valve job.
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Push rods or rockers?
