I would not be surprised if this distributor is from the original engine in the car. The carburetor I replaced shortly after I moved to wyoming. I remember I was going over the bighorn mtn back about1995 and the carb went kaput. I made it to Gillette and bought this one off a larger six. Drove all the way to Pittsburgh and then Oklahoma. Has more power given bigger throat, but not sure if a good match for that old distributor. The engine was definately firming but not sustaining. Maybe I should try a new set of points, or even get electronic ignition, what do you think? This carb, It has a larger throat and is marked C5TFG. On the base. Above the base is a small circle with the number 1.29. Here is a picture of what is on car. Notice manual choke. Also two older carbs that have been sitting in a bucket
All Small Six 200 six close to starting
- Thread starter adobejoe
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
To keep it simple and dependable, stay with points for now- get a reman distributor that's correct for the carb. I'm pasting an example. Do not get the one with two ports on the vacuum canister unless it's all that's available. It will work fine, just won't use the inner port.
The carb. you posted has a SCV-spark control valve. You can convert it to ported vacuum so you can use the points distributor that Frank posted.
There is a tech article on how to convert this carburetor to ported vacuum. I can do that for $75.00 + parts & shipping.
Your points distributor also needs to recurved for your combo. The way they come from Cardone vary very much.
Let me know if you need help. Bill billythedistributorman@live.com
There is a tech article on how to convert this carburetor to ported vacuum. I can do that for $75.00 + parts & shipping.
Your points distributor also needs to recurved for your combo. The way they come from Cardone vary very much.
Let me know if you need help. Bill billythedistributorman@live.com
Interesting. I just bought a set of points from Reilly, $26. I looked at points and they were kind of pitted So this might helpThe distributor I have has a vacuum cylinder with a metal line to carburetor which I assume works albeit maybe not curved as you mention. I’ll look for the tech article. Billy I assume you would need carb and distributor, or just carb? I assume this carb is better due to bigger throat, I think 1.2 inch.
That one Carb is likely an Autolite 1101 off the 1963 or 1964 223 Big Ford Six, yes they are bigger. Both Carb's have the SCV's so they can work with that old Load O Matic, I guess I was assuming that your Mustang was a newer 1968 model instead of of an earlier one. But You could get so much better performance out of one the newer Duel Advance Point Distributors like Frank Posted for you or else going to a 1977 to 1983 DuraSpark II electronic you would be surprised at the difference it would make. Yes for sure do the Drop O Load also to the Carb if you go with one of the two newer Distributors. Good luck
What are you doing for a choke? I don't see one on your carb. You might want to get a different one. If you want to mix and match SCV/non-SCV carbs and distributors, the better dual-advance non-SCV distributor can be used with a SCV carb by using intake manifold vacuum instead of the goofy SCV vacuum signal from the carb or going through the process to convert the carb to non-SCV use.
Have a Manuel choke. Just not wired it yet. Mustang an assembly of parts when I bought in 1984. It is nameplate 1965. Engine was replaced by Po. 1968 200 six. But I believe they transferred carburetor and distributer. Transmission is 4 sod dagenham. Think that came with 68? Rear end is I believe a 2.83 ratio out of a 1970 maverick. Etc etc going to try the new points.
You would be much better if you purchased one of my D11's. They are on sale. If you can afford it get the MSD 6425 box with a MSD Blaster 2 coil & a MSD 8869 harness which plugs right into the box. email you phone number & the best time to call. Bill
Last year the Dagenham 4 Speed's were used in the Mustang was 1965 maybe a few also used in the early 1966's they all used the Smaller single Bolt Pattern Bell Housings with the "Dog Dish" / Stepped 132 Tooth Flywheels and 8 1/2 inch Clutches. The last year those Fly Wheels were used in the Mustang was in 1966. Then they went with the newer and Larger Bolt Pattern & Bigger Bell Housings, the 136 Tooth Flat Flywheel with the 9 inch Clutches in 1967. Good luck
Tranny must be original from 1965 and yes has the dog dish style Flywheel. Glad I flipped the tooth ring on flywheel, that starter grabs! Good news and getting closer. With the new points set carefully I checked on a plug and had excellent spark. Then I rotated distributed counter clockwise and she fired and was running smooth. I only ran about 15 secs because there is no coolant. When I went to add coolant it seemed to leak out of one of the top parts of water pump. So I need to check maybe it is the gasket. Kind of weird. Also, there is some gas leaking through I think the throttle shaft in carburetor. It was dripping a bit from base of fuel bowl. Could be the gasket seam between carb half’s. Definitely getting closer. I will have to decide on ignition system as I get further along. At this point I want the mechanicals all working, then I can finish out the interior. Thanks for ALL the input.
Pulled carburetor and the gasket. There are two grooves in the base of carb and one groove on the spacer plate. I am wondering about their function and maybe the gasket is interfering? See picture. Might need a rebuild kit or at least try to address the gas coming off the carb. That shaft may be toast. Any ingenues fix on that, or do I look at one of 5hose other two carbs? They are pretty rough.
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The Groves / Channels in the Carb Mounting and in the Carb Base are to bring in some Manifold Vacuum into the Carb Circuit. Yes a Fresh rebuild kit will help on the Fuel Leakage. As for a loose Throttle Shaft, there is plenty of material to be able to ream out the throttle shaft hole for an over size bushing, this was a very common repair by the old time carb rebuilders they even made their own bushings. Site member FTF French Town Flyer did a great write up of the this process that he uses on his Autolite / Motorcraft 2V Carb's (Technique used is also the same for any of the 1V Carb's and many others) in the below link that link as has another link that goes into the details and has lots of pictures too. Best of luck
fordsix.com
THROTTLE SHAFT REBUSH - REBUILD, 2100 / 2150
Max, Do you think a regular K-Line valve guide insert could be made to work? I have the tools to do valve guide inserts. Not sure what to do about the bearing in between the two throttle plates - how an insert could be fitted there without interfering with the plates. Max, I just had another...
fordsix.com
I checked screws on carb an the ones on pumppart seemed a little loose. Tightened them up. Put some sealant on that top bolt on water pump and will let sit overnight. I really like the post by JimG at the top discussing how to use the port throat or manifold vacuum to advance your distributor. I have a vacuum advance on a mg midget and with the rebuilt distributor it can wrap out. I am curious which port might be be best of the three locations. Also, in setting timing they say to set at idle with line plugged. But since an engine runs mostly at higher rpm, say 2000, would it make sense to make the mark on flywheel and set timing when the engine is steady at that rpm? But then again you might then have poor economy on the lower end of the curve. At this point I will just get it running smoothly with the values given above.I’ll try to get a video and post if the site lets me.
The groove in the spacer plate is to provide vacuum for the choke. That one doesn't interact with the fuel circuits in the carb. It's only purpose is to draw a small amount of air up past the exaust manifold through the choke tube to warm the choke spring and release it as the engine warms. Since your carb doesn't have an automatic choke, I would actually ensure that that vacuum path is blocked off so that you don't have a useless vacuum leak.
No sir, set it at idle. If you set it at speed it will be too retarded. Advance increases with rpm. .
