2V Autolite and Weber-inst. experience and driv. impressions

[62Ranchero200]

Greetings Ford Six Fans,

After deliberation, I think I'm leaning towards a 2V adapter and either an Autolite 2100 or a Weber 32/36 for my '80 200.

The 200, installed in a 2,400 pound '62 Ranchero, is stock except for a Clay Smith 262H cam, headers, and some pocket porting. I have the largest log head with the largest valves and log intake. I plan to replace the DuraSpark with a DUI distributor soon. My goals are: low to midrange torque and off-idle response - to me, this is the same as "stop light to stop light". The Ranchero is not a daily driver, so I'm not very concerned about fuel economy, and I doubt I will ever drag race it. If I can do the beforementioned and also gain horsepower on the top end, so much the better, but the car will not spend much time at the top end.

A large 1V like an Autolite 1101, Carter YF or Carter RBS would probably be "more bang for the buck", but the 2V would probably be the largest performance increase I can get without a $2,000 aluminum head conversion or custom machining on the large log head.

From what I've read and heard, the Autolite 2100 is very durable and simple to tune, and the Weber 32/36 can perform very well on a 200. I'd like to hear about anyone's installation experiences with either of these two carbs - especially how much throttle cable or linkage modification was required, and how much carb tuning was required to get the best performance post installation. The existing Holley 1946 has a throttle cable now, but that may have to be replaced or relocated with a carb update.

If anyone has driving impressions with either of these carbs on a 200 with a 2V adapter, I'd like to hear them.

Thank you,
Bob the Builder

 

[powerband]

my opinion is progressive 32/36 clone H/W5200 on a 1X2 adaptor is simply the optimum performer for my daily driver '63 Falcon 170. I've also played with YF, RBS, 1100, various Holley 1Bbl and 2300-350 cfm 2bbl(7448) . The 5200 (Weber 32/36) progressive is my most drivable with good low end response on the primary and effective transition to the higher CFM secondary. The 2300 2bbl ran strong but eye watering rich and poor at low rpm with the little 170 and YF and RBS had good acccel' power but less strong at low RPM cruise.

have fun

'63 Wagon w/ miles per’formance six: OEM C8DE Ford 170, Precision Machine worked D7 Head . Stainless steel 1.88 intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, Ported and Polished chambers and relieved valve shrouds . Milled head w/ Steel Shim Gasket. CR @9.5:1. H/W 5200 - 2.8 series (32/36) progressive 2Bbl carb., Exhaust ¾ siamese port divider, Champion racing spark plugs, Diaphragm Clutch. T5 Adaptor/5speed tranny, Short throw Hurst Indy shifter, OEM 3.50: rear, Shelby sway bar, , Fabricated subframe connectors / crossmember, Hooker 6601 dual out longtube headers. Shoulder belts front and belts for three in rear, Dual chamber master cylinder, OEM wide-wagon brakes, dual line rear air shocks, 14” wheels & tires, Countersprung Tailgate, Folding rear seat, Original tube radio …

 

[62Ranchero200]

my opinion is progressive 32/36 clone H/W5200 on a 1X2 adaptor is simply the optimum performer for my daily driver '63 Falcon 170. I've also played with YF, RBS, 1100, various Holley 1Bbl and 2300-350 cfm 2bbl(7448) . The 5200 (Weber 32/36) progressive is my most drivable with good low end response on the primary and effective transition to the higher CFM secondary. The 2300 2bbl ran strong but eye watering rich and poor at low rpm with the little 170 and YF and RBS had good acccel' power but less strong at low RPM cruise.

have fun

Thanks Powerband! It sounds like the 32/36 was ideal for your 170.

Was the linkage/cable difficult to hook up? Did it run very well out of the box or did you need to do a lot of tuning?

Bob the Builder

 

[MPGmustang]

Mike at CI and I took this ?? to the dyno, we had my car with it's rebuilt engine that was well broken in at the time.

the stock autolite 1100v gave a wopping 95hp
the carter YF upped it to 114hp
a 2-1bbl adaptor both web or autolite gave 125hp,
a 2-1bbl adaptor with holley gave 127hp but less torque
the down side is this was with the cam advanced 11.5*, not the recommended 4* advance.
then with the 2bbl direct mount and 4* advanced cam, the holley has pulled a 145hp to the tires and it's still rich.


If I did it again, I swap to an autolite maybe a 1.14 or 1.08, somewhere between 280cfm and 320cfm.

the holley is not doing me justice in MPG, but then again I'm running 3k rpm with 4.11 gears in 5th @ 70mph

EDIT: I know my engine is not your's, and IIWIYS with your setup I would lean to the 1.08 or the 1.14

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Again Bob:

I've got to put my two cents in for the Autolite 2100 2V. If you've got the Handbook handy you can check out the pros and cons of each of the carbs you're considering. I've had personal experiences with each with the exception of the H/W and the Holley #7448. PB has these two covered. I sure respect his input. FYI- I'm using them on a very modified 250 with a '78 head modded for a direct mount 2V. My recommends are based on your rig.

However, I'd recommend the 2100 in the smaller, and earlier sizes and years. I've surveyed to 2100 starting on page 81 of the Handbook. No point in repeating it again. IIWIYS, I'd be looking for 1.01, 1.02 or 1.14 sizes to be used with a funnel adapter. The cable linkage from your '80 engine/valve cover cable attachment will work, but you'll need to fabricate a throttle return spring, fuel line and a very low profile air cleaner. Hood clearance will be an issue.

The 1.01 and 1.02s are from '62 - '64 260 V8s, 1.14 is from '64 - '67 289 & 302 V8s. Driveability, economy and throttle response will be slightly better with the smaller venturi carbs. The big plus with these carbs is that they will be close to right for your application in stock OEM tune. Just thoroughly clean, add a kit and tune the low speed air screw. Rejetting is seldom necessary, and complicated by availability of replacement jets. The good news is that the Power valve is interchangeable with Holley PVs which are rated and available in many vacuum opening levels.

Adios, David

 

[62Ranchero200]

Howdy Again Bob:

I've got to put my two cents in for the Autolite 2100 2V. If you've got the Handbook handy you can check out the pros and cons of each of the carbs you're considering. I've had personal experiences with each with the exception of the H/W and the Holley #7448. PB has these two covered. I sure respect his input. FYI- I'm using them on a very modified 250 with a '78 head modded for a direct mount 2V. My recommends are based on your rig.

However, I'd recommend the 2100 in the smaller, and earlier sizes and years. I've surveyed to 2100 starting on page 81 of the Handbook. No point in repeating it again. IIWIYS, I'd be looking for 1.01, 1.02 or 1.14 sizes to be used with a funnel adapter. The cable linkage from your '80 engine/valve cover cable attachment will work, but you'll need to fabricate a throttle return spring, fuel line and a very low profile air cleaner. Hood clearance will be an issue.

The 1.01 and 1.02s are from '62 - '64 260 V8s, 1.14 is from '64 - '67 289 & 302 V8s. Driveability, economy and throttle response will be slightly better with the smaller venturi carbs. The big plus with these carbs is that they will be close to right for your application in stock OEM tune. Just thoroughly clean, add a kit and tune the low speed air screw. Rejetting is seldom necessary, and complicated by availability of replacement jets. The good news is that the Power valve is interchangeable with Holley PVs which are rated and available in many vacuum opening levels.

Adios, David

Thanks David!

The Autolite 2100 sounds very promising to me. I have no experience rebuilding or tuning carbs. While I might be able to get through it, I could make mistakes that cost time and money ... so the less carb tuning that is needed, the better. I may be able to pick up a rebuilt one from my local auto parts store (O'Reilly). CI makes a 1V to 2V adapter for the Autolite.

Bob the Builder

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Bob:

The Autolite 2100 has been said to be the simplest carb ever built. Kits are easily available for about $25. A can of carb cleaner and a place to work and you'll surprise yourself. The only additional expense may be to purchase a Holley Power Valve. The rating would depend on your elevation, engine vacuum and driving habits- For a fairly stock, low compression engine you will probably need a 5.5 or so.

Even if you can get a rebuilt from a parts house you would be wise to disassemble to recheck settings and that all is snug and proper. Also Check to find out what main jets are in it for future reference. This caution comes from some bad experiences. It doesn't cost anything to look.

I have a running hunt going for old 2100s at recycle yards, garage sales and swap meets. I seldom pay more than ten bucks for them- mostly much less. You might even check the "For Sale" section of this Forum.

Have you investigated the inside of your DS II yet?

Adios, David