$50 paint job

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Here's my 60 Rambler, 196 i6. 3rd (and probably last for a while) car painted with this method in a year. Used Rustoleum this time, wanted to saturate the metal for protection. Did one coat a day instead of two, and let it really bake in the sun.


26_3-1.jpg


60RamblerNewPaint.jpg


Before picture is August 2006, after is current, just in time for surfing. Replaced cooling system, brakes (converted to dual MC), shocks, spun wheel hub; rebuilt generator/electrical ( thank you -ADDO- and -LAZY JW- ) added Sunpro guages to watch everything. Engine well kept 60k, didn't even have to mess with timing. Still needs a few more coats and wetsand/polish, put trim on, and some minor interior stuff.

enginecompbefore.jpg


rambcompartment1.jpg
 
johnnyzoom":mcgdqtp9 said:
Here's my 60 Rambler, 196 i6. 3rd (and probably last for a while) car painted with this method in a year. Used Rustoleum this time, wanted to saturate the metal for protection. Did one coat a day instead of two, and let it really bake in the sun.


[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/26_3-1.jpg[/img]

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/60RamblerNewPaint.jpg[/img]

Before picture is August 2006, after is current, just in time for surfing. Replaced cooling system, brakes (converted to dual MC), shocks, spun wheel hub; rebuilt generator/electrical ( thank you -ADDO- and -LAZY JW- ) added Sunpro guages to watch everything. Engine well kept 60k, didn't even have to mess with timing. Still needs a few more coats and wetsand/polish, put trim on, and some minor interior stuff.

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/enginecompbefore.jpg[/img]

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/ram bcompartment1.jpg[/img]
Click to expand...

Beautiful.
 
I just got the new hot rod. It has an entire how-to ont eh $50 paint job. They must read this forum, they used a Falcon for the story. :LOL:
 
Not yet--I was on the road for two months, and I left right in the middle of an engine/tranny rebuild. I had a rod bearing failure and the tranny's been leaking since I got it, figured I'd go ahead and get it done right.

I should have the powertrain installed this weekend though (crossing my fingers), and I'll start back on the paint. The one door still looks pretty good even without buffing. I did add about two or three coats more after the pictures.
 
I just got the new hot rod. It has an entire how-to ont eh $50 paint job. They must read this forum, they used a Falcon for the story.
Click to expand...

Yeah I picked that up today. It kills me that they just happen to have a $200 Falcon laying around to try a paint job on, one man's junk is another man's treasure indeed.


I should have the powertrain installed this weekend though (crossing my fingers)
Click to expand...

Hope it works out, the world needs Comets on the road!
 
I had to rebuild my Mexican Paint Booth. The storms from the Gulf Of Mexico are running right up into our Central Provinces with 80 MPH winds, Tornados, AND RAIN!!! We get a squirt or up to an inch at a time, every evening!

Doors come off today to cleanup the frames and the door shells.

I found original Glass Run strips for a Ford F-250 -4-door pickup that will fir in my rear wagon doors at: http://www.npdlink.com in their 79 and earlier catalog (window internals).

Also found the right way to reinstall those Pem Nuts that hold down the roof rack:
The fasteners are sometimes called weld-nuts, but when I worked in the Aircraft industry I think we called them "Pem nuts" or "Rivet nuts"
http://www.pemnet.com/

They've got a manual tool that can be 'fabbed up' and a how-to:
Here's some related detail first:
http://www.pemnet.com/design_info/ar.../One_Side.html

Here's the 'repair' tools (not in production line):
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...las/tools.html

The Atlas Hex tool looks easy enough to make up:
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...Operation.html

And here's a demo using the air-gun version:
http://www.pemnet.com/design_info/at...emo/index.html

Here's the distributor page:
http://www.pemnet.com/reps_and_distributors/

And there's one right in my town!
 
I've seen where a lot of distributors for this sort of thing will only sell to companies - if you run into that, I know McMaster-Carr sell this type of fastener http://www.mcmaster.com and will ship pretty much anywhere...
 
Why isnt this a sticky??? It has some great info in it and is bookmarked (also Mopar link bookmarked for the 4 day quest of reading all those post) for when I get the B@LLS to try it on my truck.-Paul
 
Why isnt this a sticky??? It has some great info in it and is bookmarked (also Mopar link bookmarked for the 4 day quest of reading all those post) for when I get the B@LLS to try it on my truck.-Paul
Click to expand...

Paul it probably shouldn't be a Sticky, because there's already some great stickies on Autobody work, and the site is really about engines and power trains. It has been gracious of the moderators to let me and others post our efforts and details, though.

Our weather is so changing here, from F5 Tornadoes to unpredictable weather, that I've had to dance between raindrops to press on. But I'm on the last body prep work now and as long as temperatures are above 45F (10C), this rust paint goes on. Fortunately we're forecasting another few weeks of decent days, so I should be finished before the end of the month. When I get there (in real paint mode) I'll take pics and post. I like how it works so far though. :D
 
I second the sticky nomination. It's a solid DIY paint job that looks pretty good, that is good enough for me. Heck, this is the paint and body section, so the best posts should be stickied so they are easy to find.
 
wallaka":fvh6boul said:
I second the sticky nomination. It's a solid DIY paint job that looks pretty good, that is good enough for me. Heck, this is the paint and body section, so the best posts should be stickied so they are easy to find.
Click to expand...

About the only extra factor I could add to the roller painting process is the control of mixing/adjusting the paint to thinners ratio for high humidity regions. Central Canada runs between 38% to 100%. I've been watching ours intensely since Spring Thaw in June and experimenting on bits and pieces each month while restoring parts and components of the restoration and tracking the humidity ranges and temperatures with mixture tests in an Excel Spreadsheet. Some friends in California and Arizona haven't had these humidity issues but the heat ranges forced them to add or reduce the ratios.

But the moparts.org threads have done a good job.

I worked with another forum site to reduce my huge 'summaries' of the moparts.org pages from almost 90 megabytes to 8 Word documents. Section 2 has the guts of the technique from prepping to polishing, written by the guy who started the moparts.org thread:

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... php?p=2871

I started it over there because I've got a stationwagon and figured other wagon owners might want to see how I've handled the issues.

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... .php?t=711

My spreadsheet is there as well and a few sedgeways to other issues.
 
must...paint car...now! Stupid winter! I am gonna do my body work over the winter and start a rollin on the paint come spring. This is the coolest thread I have ever read.

Darrell
 
Darrell, I just finished all the rolling - 8 coats. not counting the first two that I screwed up with bubbles that I thought would flatten. I re-read the document copies of the moparts.org thread and did it right from then on.

See page 5 for the documents and page 18 for the cost of materials and near final pics. I also posted various mistakes I made and corrections.

What's left are final pictures of the car with all its windows and trim back on, and that should be later this week. I'm really impressed at how good it came out.

Here's page 5:
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... 711&page=5

and Page 18:
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... 11&page=18
 
l_e8d91075d0810e8797048932d50d30dc.jpg


Will the fiberglass take the paint the same? Or should I spray the fiberglass and roll the body?

Darrell
 
Fibreglass can be rolled too. I did the plastic cowl vent cover and bumper extensions. They're made of ABS/PVC and flexible and they don't even crack like the lacquer does. :D
 
I dont see why not on the fiberglass question... make sure theres a primer underneath and it should be just like painting metal with a primer under it.
 
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