66 mustang 6cyl 200 1100 carb question

D

Dsteenwyk

Active member
I have a problem and was hoping for some help or suggestions.

My mustang has sat for a long time, just put new tank, new fuel line, new fuel pump, new filter, and soaked the carb in diesel for a bit to get the gunk off of it and from inside it. Never took it apart.

Finally got to the point to put gas in it and battery and crank it over, it spins and when I finally got gas to the carb it was coming out of this place in a full stream, in spurts.

EPBTzae.jpg


where the red arrow is, so I stopped and figured this can't be correct. so tried it again and sure enough same thing. this is my first car so I've had it for a long time and put about 200,000 miles on it. I cannot remember exactly where the gas is suppose to go from the carb to the intake.

any suggestions?
 
If its coming out of the Carbs Bowl Vent pipe then the Floats Needle and Seat (Internal parts) are stuck open so the fuel isn't being shut off when the Fuel Bowl is full. You could try Tapping on the Bowl Cover near were that Bowl vent is coming out of the top cover with a large Screw Driver Handle (or a small Hammer with a Plastic Faced Head) gently a few times to see if you can loosen it up. Good luck
 
I was just about to suggest the same thing. But after all the other far more expensive new parts you put in your car, you might as well spend the few bucks on a carb kit and rebuild it. The 1100s are pretty simple and easy.
 
got a carb rebuild kit on the way, just wanted to see if I could get it fixed or running before the kit shows.... anxious to get it running, It's been in the garage for about 20 yrs now.. :)
just put new tires on it, and a few other things.

btw, this was my first car I bought, in 1984
 
a little bit of tapping seemed to do the trick! now no fire....

trying to figure out how to test the coil, I can't get spark to the top of the distributor...
 
You need a Volt Ohm Meter to test out the Oil filled Coil's. Disconnect the ignition wires from the Bat. and Coil Posts (this for a Ford Spec Coil) if its a replacement type Coil they are often marked as + and -. Set your Volt Ohm Meter to the Lowest one of the Ohm scale then touch the two leads together to see if the Meter is Zeroed if it is your all set, if not and its an analog Tester there is a adjustment screw on the Scale to adjust it to zero. If its a digital take with no adjustment then write down the reading so you can deduct it from the first test reading.

If you know the Coils specs that is great, if not we will look for a ball park reading of 1.4 to 2 Ohm that should be close enough. Take this Primary Side reading with the meters leads hooked to the two Coil Posts (makes sure they are getting good contact connections) doesn't mater which you put on where. After that do a reading of the Secondary of the Coil with the Meter set on a higher scale of around 20,000 K this hook up is with one lead on + or - Post (doesn't mater) and the other on the Coil Secondary Wire Socket of the coil. This should be around 8,000 to 12,000 reading if you want you can swap the wire and check it again to see if you get near the same readings in either direction.

You can also make a check on if the coil is getting any voltage before disconnecting its wires by using a 12 volt test lamp. Clamping the lamp lead onto the CB terminal and turning on the ignition then open the points or make a sometime to hold them open out of a non conductor like wood. If it is test light is dim or fails to light there can be another problem. One common thing you should also check on a car that has sat that long and is the very first thing I check and is to try Cleaning up the Point Contacts with a Point file or some sand paper or else if they are Pitted Badly then for sure they will need to be either Filed or replaced. Good luck
 
thanks, checked I am getting 12v to the coil on the one end (where the wire connects to it), then I ohmed it across the primary (the small threaded bolts on each side of the center plug) getting 1.4 Ohms. looked good, then changed the Ohm's to 20k and tested across the secondary and got 0, I mean nothing, tried it again one the other side, nothing, so I think the coil is dead. checked the points and gap, they are new, distributor cap is new looks good.

looks like i need a new coil
 
ok new coil put on, still not spark. traced it to the points being bad, put new points on, hunted up my Chiltons Manual from 1966. :)

got all the specs, and after installation fired it right up! Waahoo!

and now for the questions and bad news.

fuel was leaking everywhere out of the carb, so waiting on the rebuild kit to fix that.

question. there is a line that comes off of the back of the carb that goes to a hole in the exhaust what is that tube called and how do I get anther or connect it to the exhaust manifold.

in the pic above it is half way between my words and my red line pointing at the intake opening.

I think it's an automatic choke? yea it's been a while since I recall all of this info. Time to relearn again.

I noticed when I held the tub in place it idled quite well and when it fall out it ran rough.

anyway, need a new one and how to install? anyone got pics of their set up?
 
Yea, that's your choke hot air tube. It runs from the choke down to a small hole that passes through the exhaust manifold but does not connect with the exhaust gas passages. They are available yet. I see the one at CJ's doen't have the insulating sleeve. I got one on ebay that did. You could make one out of some easy to bend tubing too.
 
Yea! Carb rebuild kit arrived, IMO it was missing a few parts like the 4th ball (had 3) and the counter wt and the nozzle for the inside of the bowl cover... anyway, cleaned it really well, then put it all together as best I could. :)

got it running! Idle's pretty low then dies, sounds like it's missing, so will check the plugs.

checked timing, it's a bit off, probably 13 or 14 BTDC, so will have to loosen the distributor and adjust. book says 12 BTDC and 39 degrees.

I think the water pump bearings are gone or alternator bearings... will have to check them too.

The more I fix the more I find... fortunately, there is an end in sight!
 
to continue with this, got it running, and it runs rough..... it idles 'ok' and sounds like it's randomly missing, and it dies on occasion. It will get the 'romp romp' then die. I idle it up and it recovers, then slowly goes back like it's dying slowly. Fuel?point gap? timing?

so with that in mind I put new plugs, checked timing as I advanced the distributor and retarded it, I could not tell any perceptable difference in engine running/idling. Maybe old age, but I recall as a youngster that the little bit of advance/retard really affected the idling. Maybe I need to check the point gap again?

suggestions where to start first are welcome.
 
The Basic 1966 Ford Mustang 200 Inline Six, the stock Fuel Pump Pressure is 4 ½ PSI. Start doing the Tune up in this order for the fastest way to a good Tune Up.

1.They used BF-82 Spark Plugs and were Gaped at 0.034
2. Points are set first to a gap 0.025, soon as engine is running set them to 38 Degrees of Dwell. Yours is running now so just get the Dwell right.
3. Now that you have the Dwell set you are ready to set the Base Timing Vacuum Line to Distributor is disconnected and Plugged. On Manual Trans cars set to 6 Degrees BTDC, a C4 Auto Trans Car is set to 12 Degrees BTDC.
4. With the engine Warmed up good and the Choke fully opened up, the Carb's Mixture Screw is set to the lean Best Idle RPM. This is done by first setting it to the highest Idle RPM on your Tach / Dwell Meter and then the mixture screw is turned in 1/4 Turn to Lean it out, this is now the Lean Best Idle RPM. You Can also do this setting using a Vacuum Gauge by setting it to the Highest Vacuum Reading then again turn the mixture screw in 1/4 Turn.
5. The Curb Idle RPM is now set to 500 to 525 for a Manual Trans car and 485 to 500 in Drive for an Auto Trans car (be sure the Brake is Set) and wheels are chocked. I usually repeat #4 & 5 at least a second or more times to see if there is any change.

If your still having a Rough Idle than you should do a Cranking Compression Test and also check for any Vacuum Leaks on the engine such as near the Carb Base, at the Throttle Shaft on the Linkage Side, the Auto Trans Moduel, and its Vacuum Line. Good Luck
 
Peanut gallery comment - I'd strongly suggest getting the correct manual for your car. They're worth their weight in gold. They are widely available (such as from National Parts Depot) and not too expensive. They have much more detail and relevant content than the Chilton's too.
 
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