66 mustang 6cyl 200 1100 carb question

I really wanna congratulate U 4 hangin in there. Successes are NOT easy. With experience they come quicker tho.
Here's a trick: if it seems like carb it may B ignition.
I hope U saw mike's on-line build of the 1100
mikes carbs rebuild 1100
as it sounds like you lack a lill confidence. U must rebuild every new 2 U carb (or problem carb). Trust is a major issue. We use it as a 'rule out' in our scientific approach to problem diagnosis.
Before a carb rebuild I would do my ignition tune up.
Bubs has that excellent guide (to both actually). Then, once set, I'd go onto carb. U'll get there, slo'n steady !
 
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I did see the videos and have watched them a bunch to make sure.

next I guess i'll do a compression test. (only thing I haven't replaces are the spark plug wires, generally in the dark you can see them arcing and shorting out) I'm getting to the end of the rope so surely something is going to fix this.
 
You could test out the Spark Plug Wires out with a Volt / Ohm Meter.
 
ok ohmed out the wires, all good, did a compression check, looks like i have a burnt valve. :(

idling rough, shaking, crap spewed out of the tail pipe. getting a valve cover gasket then going to pull the valve cover and look.

anybody know where i can get one valve? one intake, one exhaust.. :)
 
If yours sat all those years unused it could also be that some rust formed on an open Valve or two you might try some Marvel Mystery Oil in it and running for awhile see it it gets any better too. Single Valves are fairly easy to get.
 
tried the Marvels Mystery oil, no luck, ran it for a while, still no luck on the self healing part.

next step, pull the valve cover and look, then pull the head.
 
Before you buy any valves, I would suggest that you verify what size are in your head now. The parts in these old cars now are not always the parts that they had when new...
 
To start with what is the Heads Design / Casting Number to ID what you have?
 
took the head off today, turns out the head is fine no stuck or burnt valve, just one bent push rod.

now, the question is, what would cause the rod to get bent if the valve is not stuck?
 
"... what would cause the rod to get bent if..."
good fer U.
Many would just skip on by. Determinining cause can B helpful in
avoiding a repeat. I think a definitive answ may B difficult (the multiplicity of causes)
but certainly duz not mean a 'skip by'. More Qs to ask tho - such as: an intake or exh push rod? But-
ck valve guides, over heating, simple wear out over time, strong hit to engine during accident, werent put in
correctly 1st time, and the Big One - the lifter. Each of these can B determined by inspection @ dissessembly (Y
I hate to see folk just tear it apart").
 
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wait... from carb Q to... this, now?
 
yep, when you exhaust all other options, the illogical no matter how strange must be true. ;) or something like that
 
Taking my best guess from experiences I have had an engine that has sat a long time could have some Rust on the Valve Stems were they had been stuck open. Then you start cranking the engine over and the Valve doesn't move the Push Rod is the weakest link and folds up protecting the other parts but often the Valve is also broken lose during this process. If you want to be sure Oil up all those Valve Stems, the Rocker Arms good before trying to crank it over, and or now that the Head is pulled pull all the Valves out (Keep Them In Their Order Though) and then clean them all up good reassemble and you should be Golden. Also it's not a bad idea to disassemble and really clean up the Rocker Arms, the inside of the Shaft, the Shaft Stands that have any Oil passages in them so that way you will have good Oil flow to all the Rocker Arms and Valve Stems.
 
bubba nailed it, happened on a trencher I have, sat outside too long. I now push a rag in the air intake and the exhaust pipe if it is going to sit a long time.
I will also state that it is possible that the push rod was not seated in the lifter cup and that will also bend the pushrod. when working on the pushrod and rocker assembly be super careful that you do not get the pushrod out of the cup, there is not a guide, have to be smart about it. What usually happens you get the pushrods in place right, then when installing rocker assembly one pushrod sticks to the rocker and the pushrod get lifted out of the lifter cut/seat while installing the rockers assembly.
 
"...Probably starts with..."
yes a long string of ltr/@... other side of carb holw from "Firing Order is:xxx". It may B helpful if you get/read 'the Handbook"


while waiting for delivery peruse the above TechArchive (in solid blue line top of page)


These R 2 sources many of us find useful to get upto speed on these great lill motors.
 
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