Building The Ultimate 250 Crossflow

Just my $0.02, but the tiltle of this post is "ultimate crossflow". In my mind, that would not be an engine that runs a carb and is hooked to a three speed transmission. :unsure:

Don't be afraid of EFI. In many ways it is easier to install and tune EFI than a carb. Megasquirt is actually very simple. Megajolt is also not that difficult. Both are fairly cheap, even compared to a carb.

I agree with A7M. If I were doing this again I would go with the OHC engine, preferably as new as possible. Not only is it better in terms of smoothness and NVH, it has more power potential. I would get one with all the manifolds and injection, but would run it using an aftermarket or homemade ECU. An adapter for an AODE (with a stand alone ECU) or even a GM 4 speed would be my choice for auto transmission.
 
i have cortina's and a strong x-flow in 1 is fairly quick,i would never put in a 4.0l engine into a corty because is a headache,if i was going to change engines id go the 289/302 windsor.but iam very happy with x-flows,i think there strong and make good horses and are simple to fix and work on.i love em.i have heard a few sick 4.0l getting round,they may make a bit more power stock but i think the x-flow is more reliable.hope i havn't upset anyone but thats my view and everyones different :D
 
I guess that the EFI is the way to go for a little more power but just looking at the megasquirt website makes my head spin. I can't afford to build the ultimate crossflow and never planned on it. I am just looking into what can be done to these engines to make them better.

I know a crossflow, carb and C4 would not be the best set up for a drag racer I want to build a fun daily driver that may want to mix it up with a V8 or ricer from time to time.
 
if you wanna race it just start with what you got,save the money and turbo it!they are getting huge numbers here from turbo 250's(10 sec 1/4 in cortina's which are similar weight to an early stang).a good x-flow in a cortina/stang will pull low 14's no worries.don't panic just yet,x-flows are a good engine
 
Do they make an aftermarket "kit" to turbo a crossflow or is it basically a DIY thing?

At this point I would be very happy if my car could pull 14s. Makes sense to do it the way you said. Just get a quality basic carby xflow built and in the car and running. When I get all the bugs worked out and if I feel greedy then look into a turbo upgrade.
 
yes you can buy kits,mike vine in brisbane has done kits for x-flows for 20 years.im sure there would be plenty of other people doing kits for them.they sold around 500,000 xd to xf falcons and most had alloy head x-flows,so theres plenty still around.
 
Hullo everyone,
Just to add to this conversation.
I have just got my grubby little hands on an early but very low Ks 3.9.
Almost the same as pictured by Xtaxi.
And have noted,
The carbie from the XE doesnt fit the intake manifold, an adaptor will have to made to fit.
the manifold is designed to fit the centrepoint injector and not a carbie I can lay my hands on.
The distributor from the early motors (i.e. crossflow overhead valves) doesnt fit in the distributor hole. The distributor housing contacts/ wears on the distributor drive system.
Might have to pull off the front and look further into that as well.
I am now thinking of a fuel injection system with the EF/EL intake manifold.
Noel
Looking at the intake manifold, the fuel/air mix has to travel around a 270' bend to get to cylinders number three and four!
This I thought was curious! Goes against all I thought were gospell in intake manifold design.
 
Ive been hiding for a while.... Ok

For a ohc 4.0 motor, i would use a redline 4 barrle manifold, with adaptor plate to the 4.0 head.. port spacings are the same as 250. You need to use an ea dissy gear on the xe dissy and use in the ohc engine no computer required at all .. wham you got spark and fuel..

I have still not got my hottie going..... its in the car

i used ............

200 rods
acl race series pistons and re build kit
Arp 302 windsor rod bolts
Big valve (2v clevo) head
rolers, solid cam. Rollers arnt stud type, so might need to watch revs
INJECTION ( inject)
high energy sump
 
That sounds like a good idea, Does any one here know of any problems you may have getting one in a xf. I guess you would use
1) XG Engine mounts
2) E- Series radiator hosing etc. ( is there any difference between ea - ef?)
3) XG Gear box mount
I was also told that the sump fouls the front swaybar and a xg sway bar needs to be used?

I guess the power steering pump and alternator from the ohc could left on there and new lines made for the power steering.

A T5 could be used, Would the clutch from the xflow fit on the OHC fly wheel ?.

Also what size carb would you use on a stock OHC, i would more than likely use a EF XR6 motor or one of the XR6. Also how do you think it would run? Would the distributor need regraphing etc.

I guess you could up the cam size considerably since you dont have a computer to worry about.

How close would you get to the power output with the computer and fuel injection not hoked up.

Anyway food for thought.

Cheers

Simon



For a ohc 4.0 motor, i would use a redline 4 barrle manifold, with adaptor plate to the 4.0 head.. port spacings are the same as 250. You need to use an ea dissy gear on the xe dissy and use in the ohc engine no computer required at all .. wham you got spark and fuel..

I have still not got my hottie going..... its in the car

i used ............

200 rods
acl race series pistons and re build kit
Arp 302 windsor rod bolts
Big valve (2v clevo) head
rolers, solid cam. Rollers arnt stud type, so might need to watch revs
INJECTION ( inject)
high energy sump[/quote]
 
what about the VCT and DOHC motors could you use these without a computer?

also are there any parts that interchange between the X-flow and OHC motors?

and finally is the bell on the OHC's the same as SBF?
 
I have also been considering putting a 4.0 XR6 motor and gearbox into my XP or even an XF or cortina but I was under the impression that it is hard to hook up all the electrics and make the engine run if you don't use all the smart lock components? Is this the case or can the security stuff be modified (aftermarket computer maybe)? If using a manual gearbox with a 4.0 you need the manual computer or the engine won't run properly. This is what I have been told as I was looking into putting a 5 speed behind my EF fairmont and was told alot of computuer stuff needs to be changed.
Also, if you are putting a latter model engine in an older car don't you have to run all of the pollution gear and other stuff which would mean you couldn't take EFI off and put carbs on?
 
ea-eb computers dont have smart lock..... but
if you awanted to use the injection, i would use microtec, they are easy to wire up, and you will get more power than using the factory ecu...

dont get scarred of efi
 
No EA or EB1 ecu (ie 3.2l / 3.9l) had smartlock. BUT some EB2 (4.0l) (not all) have smartlock. The good news is the smartlock signal is the same for EB2 to EL! I think I remember someone selling a box that generates the smartlock signal. If you could get one of these it would be dead easy to wire up.
 
SONNY":12i0wubm said:
whats a max eccono 188 xtaxi?

Care of Dbokale or Inliner

meheaders2.jpg


200me2.jpg


200me3.jpg


200me6.jpg


ohc.jpg
 
Could a similar approach be used to built a tuff 250 pre-cross flow using a 2V head? Would using 200 (221??) rods give similar benifits when used with the pre-crossflow 250? What other bottom end mods would be needed/reccomended (should the engine be bored out and by how much, what rod bolts should be used)? Would larger valves be needed if using a 2V head and are any other valve train mods needed? What would be the best cam spec and would a small 4 barrel carb be suitable (465 or similar)?I know its hard to guess but what sort of power could be produced with a well sorted pre-cross flow 250?
 
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