Chopping up an HSC/HSO head

RacinNdrummin

Well-known member
Alright guys, Ive read just about every thread on the site having to do with the HSC/HSO head, as well as just about every thread over at Tempo/Topaz and google searched the hell out of it.

I have read from a few sources that they made Aluminum HSC/HSO heads, a member here claims to have 2 of them. Also this particular head in this picture looks as if it could be aluminum, though it very well could be a blasted iron head.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-TEM ... 0397109948
From what I have seen on tempo/topaz, all the heads are cast iron.

Now regardless if they made an aluminum head or not, Ive devised a plan to modify 2 heads to work on on the small six, aluminum would make the job easier, as well as the benefit of it being lighter. However, I do believe I can make two Iron heads work If I tig weld them with cast iron rod.

Here is my plan:

Start with two matching heads, preferably HSO heads.

1) Build an extended hole saw (diameter unknown at the moment) that is long enough to bore from the top of the head bolt hole through the deck of the head, and turn a pilot the same diameter as the bolt hole on my lathe that will fit into the drill hole on the saw.

2)Core out the outside 4 bolt holes of the main head.

3)Core out 8 of the 10 head bolt holes, only leaving the middle two, it is not necessary to core these. Make sure to save ALL of the cores.

4) With a bandsaw, preferably a horizontal bandsaw, that is tuned for a straight cut (this is important), Take the second head with 8 cores removed, make a cut across each set of cored bolt holes, making sure the cut is centered over the hole. This will cut the head into 5 pieces- 2 ends, the 2 outer cylinders, and the middle chunk consisting of the two middle cylinders.

5) Cut the main head over the cored holes, this will result in the head being 3 pieces- 2 ends, and the middle 4 cylinders.

6) Use a spare block, or plate thats been machined flat with the head bolt pattern drilled and tapped. Place the middle four cylinders of the main head in the middle of the jig/block and bolt down with the middle 6 headbolts, bolt 4 of the cores on the outside of the middle part in the appropriate bolt holes.

7)Tack weld the cores onto the middle section (make sure you have a generous chamfer where its to be welded, we'll have to make several passes when final welding is performed. Remove the head and weld a solid bead on the inside of the head where the core meets the head. Do this for all 4 cores.

8)Place the middle section back on the block. Place the two end cylinder sections from the donor head on the block (You may have to grind the head pieces or weld for it to fit tight). Make sure you have the exhast ports on the outside and the intakes inboard (reversed from how they were on the donor head). Bolt down 4 more cores, and repeat what was done in step 7, as well as tack the first set of cores to the head sections.

9)Tack the end pieces on.

10) Secure the freshly tacked head onto the block by whatever means necessary (furniture clamps, ratchet straps, etc). Weld all the seams on the top and sides of the head, This includes the cores. Make multiple passes depending on how deep your "Vee"s are (deeper the better). Make sure to weld different parts of the head at a time so the whole head has a chance to warm equally.

11) Remove the head and weld the deck surface.

12) Have the gasket surfaces machined, and do whatever grinding is necessary for the function of the head.

This should give you a 6 cylinder HSC head that can be used with the stock 6 Cam pattern. You can also use BBF/BBC rocker arms for a better ratio ~1.7:1. Fab an intake and header and your set. Head should be capable of around 250hp in stock type form based on the numbers the HSC guys get with their 2.3/2.5's.

Make sure you only weld with cast iron type rod, or braze the head with silicon-bronze.

This is only an affordable mod for those with the equipment or connections to the equipment. If you have to pay to have this done, just buy the CI head, its better and more affordable. However if you have the equipment this could be a worthwhile and affordable job, for a unique setup.

I plan to do this in the very near future.
 
Howdy Back R&D:

This sounds like a very cool project. Getting the dimensions right, lined up, trued and joined will be more than a little challenging. But keep us posted and pictures. I recall folks using SBC heads in a similar fashion to fit onto 230/260/292 GM sixes back in the 70s.

Best wishes and good luck.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":1afxpfis said:
Howdy Back R&D:

This sounds like a very cool project. Getting the dimensions right, lined up, trued and joined will be more than a little challenging. But keep us posted and pictures. I recall folks using SBC heads in a similar fashion to fit onto 230/260/292 GM sixes back in the 70s.

Best wishes and good luck.

Adios, David

8) not only did the chevy guys do this for their sixes, the ford guys did a similar thing with the cleveland head for the big ford six.
 
StrangeRanger":3c6z92fh said:
With cast iron, I believe the preferred technique is to furnace braze the chunks together rather than welding them.

8) yep, and the procedure isnt cheap. and when you are done you need to have every surface remachined.
 
Which is why im doing it a little different...

The benefit of furnace brazing is it fills every gap via capillary action and the piece is heated at an even rate, however, where it fails is it cant add any extra "beef" where its needed, and the brazing by nature is fusing to dissimilar metals.

Tigging the head together allows the use of a Cast Iron type filler metal. That means observation of the expansion and contraction rates doesnt have to be so critical, not to mention it is easy to build up areas that could use extra weld, and make multi passes to add strength to the welded area.
 
8) cast iron still likes to be quite hot when welding on the head, even if you are using a tig welder. you want to avoid creating stress risers in the iron, and high heat is the best way to do that, unless you normalize the head after welding.
 
R&D,
You may already have some cast iron welding experience but for those who don't and want to get a lot of very useful info for joining cast iron. The American Welding Society(AWS) released a code book in '89, Guide for Welding Iron Castings ANSI/AWS D11.2:89

Inside the code book you will find:
a weldability test the AWS Committee came up with for cast iron which will help you determine what your material is.(EDIT: and reqd. preheat/interpass temperature)
a different Carbon Equivalent Formula that is specific to cast iron.(The formula for steel doesn't work well for cast iron)
a lot of info on the filler metals that are available and their usefulness.
info on each arc welding process that has successfully been used and brazing processes.
MASS amounts of other info about technique, joint prep, shielding, and heat treating.

If you can, let me know what you use for filler because I may have to weld on my cylinder head. :p

Stephen
 
I know its a 2 year old thread but wonder if was followed through and if so how did it turn out? Im a big fan of hybridized engine combos lol
 
I think to do this proper you would want a THICK steel plate (like 2") drilled and tapped for the six head pattern.

I would rough cut both donor heads and then true them on a mill for welding.

skip trying to make cores of the stock head bolt bosses.....just buy and have some castiron rod machined as needed on a lathe....mill for the "sleeves"

preheat the whole mass of iron (all couple hundred pounds) to around 500F (or as specified) and weld it out.

you will need some spacers to bolt the plate (or an additional one) to the top side of the head for when you weld the bottom up.

I think it is doable though.
 
One last hurdle, after you have the heads mated, will be to come up with a cam. The port layout is going to be different than anything else, so you'll need a custom camshaft as well.
 
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