Desert Ranchero
New member
Differences Between Official Ford Manual and ClassicInlines.com/FordSix.com Valve Adjustment Procedures:
Hello and to wherever it should be directed,
I've got a 1964 Ranchero (170ci) running relatively well, but with a couple of ticks seemingly coming from the valve train (typical clicks per revolution coming from around the back of the cover, around #4, #5, or #6).
(Funny thing is that the sounds don't exist when I pull the cover to do a valve adjust, and I've been thinking it's just a spring plate, rocker arm, or adjuster screw tapping the cover. But that's not the main point of the post.)
I wanted to get the valves adjusted as close to original spec as possible as a starting point, but I noticed that there are some considerable differences/discrepancies between the valve adjustment procedures listed at the classicinlines/fordsix link here, and the official Ford manual valve adjustment page for this vehicle (a copy of the manual can be found here - for a price); and I wanted to get a consensus from members and mods about what the best of the two (different) worlds might be for valve-adjustment for this engine.
The differences are as follows (important discrepancies from the Ford manual listed in bold red italics):
As found at http://classicinlines.com/ValveAdj.asp
As found in the official Ford manual for this model
As is obvious at the onset, there is no mention of a Solid Lifter technique in the particular Ford publication for this vehicle, as (I believe) the 64s all have hydraulic lifters.
As well, the rockers on this 64 train are non-adjustable, in and of themselves. But there is an adjustment screw on the rod-side of the arm, the tip of which contacts the rod after proper adjustment (and furthermore, "preload", addressed later, below).
The first alarming note in comparing the two approaches above is the difference between the described 1/4 turn vs. 2-1/2 turns for proper preload, which is a large difference. Is this because the classicinlines/fordsix article/technique is referring to adjustable rocker arms, and not rod-side adjustment screws?
As well, the fact that there is such a large discrepancy between the "last resort" clearance spec from the classicinlines/fordsix instructions and the recommended clearance range from the Manual.
0.018 vs 0.066-0.216 ???
That there is a difference is not what is alarming; the classicinlines/fordsix instructions plainly state that the spec should be used only as a last resort, inferring (within the given context) that it is a kind of "guess measurement".
I get that.
But that the range recommended in the Ford publication doesn't even come close to the spec listed on the classicinlines/fordsix site? That's a bit more confusing. Is this also some kind of reference to adjustable arms, and not rod-side adjustment screws? I suppose that would make sense, as (if I remember correctly) one "half" of the rocker arm is longer than the other (that is, relative to the pivot point - I can't remember which end is longer, the rod side or the valve side), which would mean a different spec if measuring a gap at the rod or the valve.
If the adjustable rocker arm capability is not what's referred to for an explanation of the difference in numbers, however, can anyone shed some light on these seemingly very different school's of thought in adjustment specs and technique?
I'm wondering, for example, where the 0.018 number might have come from? What does "commonly set" mean in the containing line? I can't imagine this would be some arbitrary figure that "everyone" used back in the day regardless of the original specs listed in the manual. Is it a performance spec for a race build? (But then, I'd think you'd want to go even more loose? Not tighter?)
Based on recommendations virtually everywhere, the maxim is (as always) to leave valve adjustment slightly loose as a preference over slightly tight - if in doubt; a logical, reasonable, and understandable approach. (And something I've always done, myself, if I couldn't quite get adjustments within spec., or find specs to begin with. And, of course, "loose" meaning only to a point.)
But based on this logic, if I were left to choose between the specs presented above, I certainly wouldn't go any tighter than the 0.066 listed from the range mentioned in the Manual.
And, either way, my goal here is to set things correctly; i.e. not too loose or too tight; so as to rid the engine of this one, last tick, and to do so well within spec.
Thanks in advance for any info/insight/explanation.
D.R.
P.S.: Sorry in advance if this is the wrong area of the Forum, or if this info has been previously posted elsewhere. I didn't find either after a search.
Hello and to wherever it should be directed,
I've got a 1964 Ranchero (170ci) running relatively well, but with a couple of ticks seemingly coming from the valve train (typical clicks per revolution coming from around the back of the cover, around #4, #5, or #6).
(Funny thing is that the sounds don't exist when I pull the cover to do a valve adjust, and I've been thinking it's just a spring plate, rocker arm, or adjuster screw tapping the cover. But that's not the main point of the post.)
I wanted to get the valves adjusted as close to original spec as possible as a starting point, but I noticed that there are some considerable differences/discrepancies between the valve adjustment procedures listed at the classicinlines/fordsix link here, and the official Ford manual valve adjustment page for this vehicle (a copy of the manual can be found here - for a price); and I wanted to get a consensus from members and mods about what the best of the two (different) worlds might be for valve-adjustment for this engine.
The differences are as follows (important discrepancies from the Ford manual listed in bold red italics):
As found at http://classicinlines.com/ValveAdj.asp
How to adjust your valves properly.
First, you must determine if you have solid lifters, or hydraulic lifters. Solid lifters were commonly used on the early 144/170ci motors, while hydraulic lifters were used on the later 144/170ci and 200/250ci motors. However, this is only a rule of thumb.
Method for Hydraulic Lifters
Disconnect the coil wire first for safety, making sure the motor won't accidentally start. Some guys prefer to remove all the plugs too, so that the engine is easier to rotate during the procedure. Make sure to mark your plug wires before disconnecting, so you don't mix up the firing order when reinstalling them.
Next rotate the engine until the number one (#1) cylinder is on TDC just after the compression stroke (you can feel the compressed air by putting your finger over the spark plug hole).
Now you can adjust the following valves:
#1 intake - #1 exhaust - #2 intake - #3 exhaust - #4 intake - #5 exhaust
Next, rotate the engine until the number six (#6) cylinder is on TDC just after its compression stroke (one full revolution of the crank shaft). Now adjust the remainder of the valves:
#2 exhaust - #3 intake - #4 exhaust - #5 intake - #6 intake - #6 exhaust
Adjust the valves by backing off the adjuster so that the pushrod can be easily rotated between your thumb and forefinger. Then slowly tighten the adjuster until you can no longer rotate the pushrod. Tighten the adjuster an additional ¼ turn, for the proper preload on the hydraulic lifter.
Note: The valve adjustments should be done on an engine that has been warmed up. Make sure to let it cool off sufficiently so that you don't burn your fingers while rotating the pushrods. It is also a good idea to place a drop cloth or oil pan under the car/engine to prevent oil drips on the floor.
Method for Solid Lifters
While valve adjustments must be made as accurately as possible, it is better to have the valve adjustment slightly loose, rather than slightly tight, as a burned valve may result from overly tight adjustments. Look in your engine manual to determine the proper valve lash for your motor. If you can't find it, they were commonly set at .018 thousands, but this lash should only be used as a very last resort.
1. Start the engine and let it run until it has reached operating temperature.
2. Remove the valve cover and gasket.
3. With the engine idling, adjust the valve lash using a step-type feeler gauge. This type of feeler gauge is sometimes more commonly known as a "go-no go" type feeler gauge. The proper clearance is reached when the smaller step on the gauge blade will pass through the gap while the larger step on the same blade will not pass thought the gap. Pass the proper size gauge blade between the valve stem and the rocker arm. If the clearance is correct, move on to the next valve. If the clearance is in need of adjustment, turn the adjusting screw on the opposite end of the rocker arm with a wrench until the proper clearance is reached. Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the clearance and counterclockwise to increase the clearance. Use the procedure for all of the valves.
4. Re-install the valve cover after you finish adjusting the valves.
As found in the official Ford manual for this model
ADJUSTMENTS
VALE CLEARANCE-
144, 170 AND 200 SIX
The valve clearance may be adjusted by either of the following methods.
Lifter Extended Method.
1. Make two chalk marks on the crankshaft pulley or damper (Fig. 12). Space the marks approximately 120 degrees apart so that with the timing mark, the pulley or damper is divided into three equal parts (120 degrees represents 1/3 of the distance around the pulley or damper circumference).
2. Using an auxiliary starter switch, rotate the crankshaft until No. 1 piston is approximately at T.D.C. at the end of the compression stroke. Adjust the No. 1 cylinder intake and exhaust valve lash. Back off the adjusting screw until there is definite clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem. Turn the rocker arm adjusting screw clockwise (tighten) to remove all the push rod to rocker arm end clearance. This may be determined by rotating and/or moving the push rod with the fingers as the adjusting screw is tightened.
3. When all the push rod end clearance has been eliminated, tighten the adjusting screw an additional 2-1/2 turns to place the hydraulic lifter plunger at the approximate center of its travel. If the torque required to turn the self-locking adjusting screw is less than 7 ft-lbs, install a new, oversized adjusting screw. If unable to obtain a minimum torque of 7 ft-lbs with the oversize adjusting screw, replace the rocker arm and adjusting screw assembly.
4. Repeat this procedure (steps 2 and 3) for the remaining sets of valves, positioning each piston at approximately T.D.C. in the firing order sequence by turning the crankshaft 1/3 turn at a time in the direction of rotation. The engine should not be cranked or rotated until the hydraulic lifters have had an opportunity to leak down to their normal operating positions or a bent valve may result. The leak-down rate may be accelerated by applying pressure on the push rod end of the rocker arm using Tool T58P-6565-A.
Lifter Collapsed Method
1. Follow steps 2 and 3 of the "Lifter Extended Method".
2. Using tool T58P-6565-A, apply pressure to the push rod end of the rocker arm to slowly bleed down the valve lifter until th eplunger is completely bottomed. Hold the lifter in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem tip. If clearance is not within specifications, turn the adjusting screw clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase the clearance. Normally, one turn of the adjusting screw will alter the clearance by 0.075 inch at the valve stem tip.
Specifications:
VALVE MECHANISM
VALVE CLEARANCE*
144, 170 and 200 .......... 0.066 - 0.216
*Clearance specified is obtained at the valve stem tip with the hydraulic valve lifter collapsed.
As is obvious at the onset, there is no mention of a Solid Lifter technique in the particular Ford publication for this vehicle, as (I believe) the 64s all have hydraulic lifters.
As well, the rockers on this 64 train are non-adjustable, in and of themselves. But there is an adjustment screw on the rod-side of the arm, the tip of which contacts the rod after proper adjustment (and furthermore, "preload", addressed later, below).
The first alarming note in comparing the two approaches above is the difference between the described 1/4 turn vs. 2-1/2 turns for proper preload, which is a large difference. Is this because the classicinlines/fordsix article/technique is referring to adjustable rocker arms, and not rod-side adjustment screws?
As well, the fact that there is such a large discrepancy between the "last resort" clearance spec from the classicinlines/fordsix instructions and the recommended clearance range from the Manual.
0.018 vs 0.066-0.216 ???
That there is a difference is not what is alarming; the classicinlines/fordsix instructions plainly state that the spec should be used only as a last resort, inferring (within the given context) that it is a kind of "guess measurement".
I get that.
But that the range recommended in the Ford publication doesn't even come close to the spec listed on the classicinlines/fordsix site? That's a bit more confusing. Is this also some kind of reference to adjustable arms, and not rod-side adjustment screws? I suppose that would make sense, as (if I remember correctly) one "half" of the rocker arm is longer than the other (that is, relative to the pivot point - I can't remember which end is longer, the rod side or the valve side), which would mean a different spec if measuring a gap at the rod or the valve.
If the adjustable rocker arm capability is not what's referred to for an explanation of the difference in numbers, however, can anyone shed some light on these seemingly very different school's of thought in adjustment specs and technique?
I'm wondering, for example, where the 0.018 number might have come from? What does "commonly set" mean in the containing line? I can't imagine this would be some arbitrary figure that "everyone" used back in the day regardless of the original specs listed in the manual. Is it a performance spec for a race build? (But then, I'd think you'd want to go even more loose? Not tighter?)
Based on recommendations virtually everywhere, the maxim is (as always) to leave valve adjustment slightly loose as a preference over slightly tight - if in doubt; a logical, reasonable, and understandable approach. (And something I've always done, myself, if I couldn't quite get adjustments within spec., or find specs to begin with. And, of course, "loose" meaning only to a point.)
But based on this logic, if I were left to choose between the specs presented above, I certainly wouldn't go any tighter than the 0.066 listed from the range mentioned in the Manual.
And, either way, my goal here is to set things correctly; i.e. not too loose or too tight; so as to rid the engine of this one, last tick, and to do so well within spec.
Thanks in advance for any info/insight/explanation.
D.R.
P.S.: Sorry in advance if this is the wrong area of the Forum, or if this info has been previously posted elsewhere. I didn't find either after a search.