All Small Six eBay Amazon CI header questions

[dydaktix]

I have a bone stock original 62 comet with a 170 and a 2 speed automatic. Trying to get it running better and modernized. The exhaust manifold on the car is cracked, and I'm thinking of replacing it with the (in)famous eBay /Amazon / Vintage (Classic) Inlines/ DNA headers that can be had for ~130.

As I've been doing research, it appears as if:

1) the header/starter needs to be modified for clearance. Most installs seems to be people denting the header.

2) I'm currently running a generator, and was hoping that I wouldn't have to change it out yet, will the header fit with a generator? All the videos and posts I read people are running an alternator needs a longer bracket, a 289.

Is there anything else to be aware of before installing?

 

[78_200_C4]

I would replace the cracked manifold or upgrade to a 68 + 2" outlet manifold with a 2" exhaust system.
A lower restriction muffler installed on the stock 1 3/4" exhaust may increase the performance a much as a header.

 

[alwill923]

I have a "New" to me 1960 falcon. Will be changing the generator to a GM 10si (63 amps) 3 wire alternator. I have a 65 truck with a 240 which I previously changed to the same alternator. On the truck I used the same bracket. On the falcon I will use the generator bracket with a simple modification to install the alternator.

The alternator has an internal regulator and this eliminates the external regulator and the associated wires. The internet has many examples as to how to wire this. The alternator cost $84.00 at NAPA. If it goes bad I can get a replacement at any auto supply store. Try getting a generator or regulator and see what they cost. Autokrafters has generators $350.00 plus.

Do not go with a one wire alternator or wire the 3 wire alternator for a one wire.

 

[78_200_C4]

"This part will allow you to bolt an alternator onto all 6 cylinder engines as found in all models of the 1960-1964 Ford Falcons & Mercury Comets. It utilizes the original generator bracket mounting holes and properly positions the alternator. Includes the alternator to bracket mount bolt." $29.95

1960-1964 ALTERNATOR BRACKETS FOR 6 CYL ENGINES

www.falconparts.com

 

[chad]

Use 3G, not GM's, stay ford

 

[78_200_C4]

"This part will allow you to bolt an alternator onto all 6 cylinder engines as found in all models of the 1960-1964 Ford Falcons & Mercury Comets. It utilizes the original generator bracket mounting holes and properly positions the alternator. Includes the alternator to bracket mount bolt." $29.95

1960-1964 ALTERNATOR BRACKETS FOR 6 CYL ENGINES

www.falconparts.com

View attachment 10931

Drill a GM 12si so the Ford bolt goes thru it, use a 1" spacer. Original Ford alternator belt will fit

 

[78_200_C4]

If you decide to install the header the bottom 2nd and 3rd from the front bolt holes may have to be filed (enlarged) toward the front of the engine to get the bolts to go in.
Lift up on the header, especially the back tube before you tighten any bolts. This will increase the header to starter clearance and help seal the big 3-4 exhaust port.
Also lift up (and high temp silcone) the header gasket to the head. If the gasket drops down it may not seal (for long) the top of the big 3-4 exhaust port.

 

[78_200_C4]

The #6 header tube most likely will have to be hammered to clear the starter.
The stainless header tubes are tough.
You may have to heat the tube with a acetylene torch before dimpling it.
The 1 1/2' header tubes are larger than they should be (larger than the exhaust ports) so flattening the tube should be no problem

 

[78_200_C4]

The # 1, 2, 5 + 6 header ports are much larger than the head exhaust ports.
Engine performance might be increased by reducing the size of the # 3 + 4 header ports to same size as the # 1, 2, 5 + 6 exhaust ports in the head.
You would think that cylinders 3 + 4 would put out more power than the other cylinders due to the intake design and the huge 3-4 exhaust port in the head.

 

[bubba22349]

X2 Yes exactly and this is also why I like fitting up and installing the port divider for the 3 & 4 exhaust ports. This also makes all the exhaust ports match more closely as well as keeping some heat out of logs Carb mounting base.

 

[78_200_C4]

X2 Yes exactly and this is also why I like fitting up and installing the port divider for the 3 & 4 exhaust ports. This also makes all the exhaust ports match more closely as well as keeping some heat out of logs Carb mounting base.

Depending on each persons abilities it might be easier to modify the header than install a port divider that may come loose.
My carb runs cool.
It sits on 2 pieces of 1/4" red oak which are fiberglassed together.
I don't preheat the fuel by running it thru a hot engine block mounted fuel pump.
I have an electric fuel pump mounted with machine screws to the lip of the fuel tank.
Under hood temperatures can be hot as an oven so my under hood fuel line is insulated.
I also run a 1/4" fuel return line thru a .040 restriction.
Thermostat is a 205. In the winter the engine runs as hot as in the summer!
The log intake runs hot but the carb. stays cool to the touch.

 

[78_200_C4]

It's possible that my high flow electric fuel pump mounted in the rear had enough suction to draw air into the fuel tank thru the vented (one way) gas cap.
Sometimes (with the mechanical pump or a smaller elec. pump) at wide open throttle or highway speeds it acted like it was running out of gas.
Come to find out the left rear tire had thrown dirt and or mud up into the metal gas tank vent tube plugging it where it exits the body.
One of these days I will block the return line then re-install the cheap elec. lower flow fuel pump that I ran for a few months.
If it works out OK I won't have to hear the noisy high flow pump.