Yeh... 
,
The new cam bearings are finally installed. It went a lot easier than I thought once I had the right tool. I used one of the universal cam bearing installation kits with the expanding diameter ends. (Like This: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4555162743&category=35625
For those who have never replaced a cam before and would like to learn from my mistakes, use a very long bolt on the end of the cam before pulling it out (you'll need the leverage with the long cam). Also, take off the oil pan and stick someone under the car to help guide the cam out without hitting anything. Another reason to take off the oil pan is to ensure the cam does not hit any crank rod bolts on the way out (note: the cam and crank are not necessarily in sync once the chain is off.
For those who hurt the bearings, like me, and want to replace them with the block in the car, first rent the correct tool ($30 a day from Tools Unlimited). Removal goes pretty easy, just put the correct size expander in the bearing and expand until snug (Note: you need a hand up in the engine to tighten the expander for removing the inner bearings so the oil pan must be off).
With the bearings out mark a spot on the block casting with some paint so you know where the oil hole is so it can be matched up with the bearing hole. I used a little dab of paint for this.
To install the inner bearings use the cone shaped piece to keep the tool centered so the bearing does not go in cocked to a side. The front bearing I had to eyeball, but as it was hammered towards the cast housing we stopped every so often to check the bearing was square to the hole. I think this is really a two person job with the second person under the car to ensure the oil holes are lined up prior to hammering in the bearing, and to yell when to stop hammering the bearing so you can get it centered.
Question: Ok, my book does not have the torque spec for the two bolts which hold the plate preventing removal of the camshaft. I have them currently torqued to 15 ft-lb., but does anyone have the spec?
Thanks,
Greg....
P.S. Let me know if your want more stories or just quick questions...
PPS. Prev Post http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25124
,The new cam bearings are finally installed. It went a lot easier than I thought once I had the right tool. I used one of the universal cam bearing installation kits with the expanding diameter ends. (Like This: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4555162743&category=35625
For those who have never replaced a cam before and would like to learn from my mistakes, use a very long bolt on the end of the cam before pulling it out (you'll need the leverage with the long cam). Also, take off the oil pan and stick someone under the car to help guide the cam out without hitting anything. Another reason to take off the oil pan is to ensure the cam does not hit any crank rod bolts on the way out (note: the cam and crank are not necessarily in sync once the chain is off.
For those who hurt the bearings, like me, and want to replace them with the block in the car, first rent the correct tool ($30 a day from Tools Unlimited). Removal goes pretty easy, just put the correct size expander in the bearing and expand until snug (Note: you need a hand up in the engine to tighten the expander for removing the inner bearings so the oil pan must be off).
With the bearings out mark a spot on the block casting with some paint so you know where the oil hole is so it can be matched up with the bearing hole. I used a little dab of paint for this.
To install the inner bearings use the cone shaped piece to keep the tool centered so the bearing does not go in cocked to a side. The front bearing I had to eyeball, but as it was hammered towards the cast housing we stopped every so often to check the bearing was square to the hole. I think this is really a two person job with the second person under the car to ensure the oil holes are lined up prior to hammering in the bearing, and to yell when to stop hammering the bearing so you can get it centered.
Question: Ok, my book does not have the torque spec for the two bolts which hold the plate preventing removal of the camshaft. I have them currently torqued to 15 ft-lb., but does anyone have the spec?
Thanks,
Greg....
P.S. Let me know if your want more stories or just quick questions...
PPS. Prev Post http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25124
