This relates to all small sixes
I think the gasket for the newer, bigger carb spacer plate would better cover those double drilled holes. If they're sealed off from the outside, the extra holes don't really need to be filled. It would be nice to do so, but it would be bad if a plug worked loose and dropped into the intake. Better yet would be to just get the proper carb spacer plate.
@TrickSix yea was my thoughts as well. Thankfully none of the holes fully go through the intake. The new holes were made really close to the original, so it's hard to tell if the threads are fully sealed, which could cause are to bypass the gasket seal. Plugging them with the set screws has helped the idle for now. I'll definitely be looking into a better spacer plate in the future though.
That's great and just so you know you can having a big Log Head also opens the door for the use one of the newer bigger bore 1V Carbs or even a 2V Carb on an adapter plate. Which Distributor do you have now, or a Picture is ok to?
@bubba22349 attached are some photos of the distributor. Looks like an motorcraft 12127?
Is that compatible with a SCV? Cause it's ran to the distributor, not the intake for vacuum.
Is that compatible with a SCV? Cause it's ran to the distributor, not the intake for vacuum.
Attachments
Hi clmriot, that looks like one of the 1969 point type Distributor's with the Duel Advance the 1968 to 1974 Distributor's are about the best of the old point type one's but No it won't work right with one of those old SCV Carbs.
I would say its better to get one of the later model Carter Carb's eventually if you want better performance. However yes you could just plug the Carb Port up and then hook up the Distributor to a Manifold Vacuum source and that will work fine.
You might do a check of the Distributor Shaft for excess slop pushing it at the top towards the engine block and pulling it back towards you. Do you feel any looseness in it? If it dose looseness of the upper shaft than the Distributors Dwell Angel Degree's will be changing and can have quite an affect on how it runs.
Moving the distributor vacuum line source shouldn't change how the carb works, but might change the engine timing enough to run differently. I've got a 1969 distributor on my '66 200 connected to manifold vacuum. It runs well with both a SCV 1100 and a non-SCV 1101.
Completed the compression test today. I'm guessing this 1 cylinders valves are the cause of all the issues (could hear gas possibly escaping while testing). I'll pull the valve cover tomorrow and see if I can notice anything before I start pulling the head off.
1: 100
2: 110
3: 105
4: 30
5: 110
6: 100
1: 100
2: 110
3: 105
4: 30
5: 110
6: 100
Yes it's time to pull the Head Off and have a look.
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
#4 looks like a quitter! bent valve? Curious to see.
It looks like you can see exhaust gases there so. I was thinking exhaust leak there at the manifold/head, but it could be like someone else posted, a head gasket leak.
@bubba22349 was finally able to get around to pulling the head. Sure enough one of the #4 valves was burnt and had a chip missing from the edge. Dropped it off at the machine shop for them to rebuild the head.
I'm also gonna replace the pushrods and lifters. The lifters are indeed hydraulic, but the machine shop told me the pushrods would be part SBI 190-1280. These are ball/cup pushrods, while mine currently are ball/ball?
I'm also gonna replace the pushrods and lifters. The lifters are indeed hydraulic, but the machine shop told me the pushrods would be part SBI 190-1280. These are ball/cup pushrods, while mine currently are ball/ball?
Hi @clmriot, Glad to hear you got the head off as well as finding the cause of that low cylinder compression that 200 Six should run great soon. The pushrods you would need is determined by the type of Rocker Arm Assembly that you have and also by the year of the engine. All early engines normally had the Adjustable Rockers and many times even the first Hydraulic Lifter engines up to 1965 did too. I am guessing they were only going by the year of the Econoline body (which would of had the Solid Lifters and Ball & Cup Push Rods) rather than that what the newer engine that you have has. Yes since your 1962 Econoline has a much newer 1969 or 70 200 Six swapped into it, yes you are right and will need the Ball / Ball Type Pushrods, these are MELLING Part #MPR313. Your local parts house should be able to cross reference that number into other brands to if needed. Here is a link to the Melling Push Rods, best of luck. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7084304&cc=1127900&pt=5648&jsn=11065&jsn=11065
Hi @@clmriot, there is this Engine Rebuilding Company in L.A. California that could maybe weld up that crack for you or they might have some good Ford Small Six Head Cores. https://losangelesmachineshop.com/forklift-cylinder-head-repair-welding/
I used to go to the Pick A Parts and other SoCal & Central Valley area wrecking yards to get Engine's, Heads, Transmissions etc. there used to be a real good supply of these parts there. Then you could also put an free add in our Parts Wanted or the Small Six for Sale down at the bottom of all the other forums, many times their are site members with extra parts links below. Good luck in the hunt.
Wanted, https://fordsix.com/forums/wanted.85/
Buy, Sell, or Trade - Small Six, https://fordsix.com/forums/buy-sell-or-trade-small-six.86/
I used to go to the Pick A Parts and other SoCal & Central Valley area wrecking yards to get Engine's, Heads, Transmissions etc. there used to be a real good supply of these parts there. Then you could also put an free add in our Parts Wanted or the Small Six for Sale down at the bottom of all the other forums, many times their are site members with extra parts links below. Good luck in the hunt.
Wanted, https://fordsix.com/forums/wanted.85/
Buy, Sell, or Trade - Small Six, https://fordsix.com/forums/buy-sell-or-trade-small-six.86/
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