All Small Six Ford industrial 6's

This relates to all small sixes

char

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I'm in the process of tearing down my locked up 200 out of a 66 'stang that Ive had since 1985. It was "rebuilt" after the first 110k miles said the previous owner and being 15 I didnt know or ask what that entailed. But after another wrench free 125K miles, it was way down on power and kinda dangerous to drive - but no blow-by, just low comp numbers across the board. I stopped driving it and it has sat in a garage since about '97. Now to cases: Theres a fellow with a running 6 attached to a towable compressor he needs to get rid of. There is a sticker on the valve cover that has the Ford logo and "power products" written underneath. The oil filler cap is in the rear and the pcv valve is up front, so I think its an industrial engine. Can I yank it out of the compressor and stick it in the 66? Are they the same engine? thx.
 
why is it locked up? Did you pull the plugs, spray wd-40 or similar in the cylinders and work it back and forth with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt? Even if you want to replace the engine you might as well do that first.
 
I'm in the process of tearing down my locked up 200 out of a 66 'stang that Ive had since 1985. It was "rebuilt" after the first 110k miles said the previous owner and being 15 I didnt know or ask what that entailed. But after another wrench free 125K miles, it was way down on power and kinda dangerous to drive - but no blow-by, just low comp numbers across the board. I stopped driving it and it has sat in a garage since about '97. Now to cases: Theres a fellow with a running 6 attached to a towable compressor he needs to get rid of. There is a sticker on the valve cover that has the Ford logo and "power products" written underneath. The oil filler cap is in the rear and the pcv valve is up front, so I think its an industrial engine. Can I yank it out of the compressor and stick it in the 66? Are they the same engine? thx.
The engine soulds like it's a mid 1970's or newer version it likely would be able to bolt into your 1966 Mustang if it has a high mount starter. The industrial engines though are different specs, it wil have a governor on it to limit it's speed and the head might be different for a lower compression ratio. Check the block casting / desin numbers of those parts to ID it further and some pictures would help. Good luck.
 
2X ^^^^ ID what it is (pre-purchase) and do some diagnosis on what U currently have. I know a 1X rebuild and another 125k mi seems alot and am not sure what U want, where U wanna go, do. I have seen U here a bit so assume U have "the Handbook"
and above 'tech archive'
for motor ID (they did make 200 & 300's for industrial apps)
but U can also use these resources for engine problem diagnostics (ur in both places right now, no?)

How many hrs on the other motor? What shape duz it look in (weeping oil or 'antifrez', can U read plugs, hear it running)? 4,000 RPM in marine applications can B abusive (I been out to sea 1K mi and can testify).
 
Comparing your engine and the compressor engine. Log intake or removable intake?? Number of freeze plugs
It looks exactly the same, aside from some bolt-on bracketry and the reversed oil filler/pcv location on the valve cover. 5 plugs in the smile - one piece log head. The carb is not a 1100 or anything, its on a large spacer with an oval cover plate on the drinker side. Seen that on a photo of an 'industrial 200' . this is it wasnt sure if I could post picts yet. Exhaust hides the casting #'s
 

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why is it locked up? Did you pull the plugs, spray wd-40 or similar in the cylinders and work it back and forth with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt? Even if you want to replace the engine you might as well do that first.
I'm working on the Vice Grip method. I'm already pretty sure a full tear down is in order. I'm just looking at options if the block needs alot of machining to set right. Its probably what I'll do, but options are nice and these dont seem to come up for sale very often. But now there are two, but that guy wont drop the price if he unbolts the 2.77. I did the 3.03 switch almost right after I got the car. thx
 
The engine soulds like it's a mid 1970's or newer version it likely would be able to bolt into your 1966 Mustang if it has a high mount starter. The industrial engines though are different specs, it wil have a governor on it to limit it's speed and the head might be different for a lower compression ratio. Check the block casting / desin numbers of those parts to ID it further and some pictures would help. Good luck.
I'd bet the big spacer thing under the carb is the Gov. you mention. More evidence thats its not a pass. car engine. Other than that it looks the same
 

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2X ^^^^ ID what it is (pre-purchase) and do some diagnosis on what U currently have. I know a 1X rebuild and another 125k mi seems alot and am not sure what U want, where U wanna go, do. I have seen U here a bit so assume U have "the Handbook"
and above 'tech archive'
for motor ID (they did make 200 & 300's for industrial apps)
but U can also use these resources for engine problem diagnostics (ur in both places right now, no?)

How many hrs on the other motor? What shape duz it look in (weeping oil or 'antifrez', can U read plugs, hear it running)? 4,000 RPM in marine applications can B abusive (I been out to sea 1K mi and can testify).
How many hrs on the other motor? What shape duz it look in (weeping oil or 'antifrez', can U read plugs, hear it running)? 4,000 RPM in marine applications can B abusive (I been out to sea 1K mi and can testify).

Thats what I was wondering. Prob very little RPM modulation if its running a pump for an air comp. all the rip-ems' or nothing.
 
I'd bet the big spacer thing under the carb is the Gov. you mention. More evidence thats its not a pass. car engine. Other than that it looks the same
Yes the large spacer under the carb and bolted to the Heads Intake Log is the Governor unit and it can be easily unbolted and removed, the carb on the engine is a Holley 1940. With the Govener unit removed and a good carb it will probably run just like a car engine. This block will have the duel bell housing bolt patterns to use either the small 2.77 bell housing with stepped flywheel or the larger 3.03 bell housing and flat 9 inch clutch flywheel so this is a direct bolt in. If the engine runs good and is at a reasonable price then it will work fine with only a very little bit of parts swapping. It also has the 1965 to 1970's up alternator and the starter so those could be useable to. Looks like a late 1960's to mid 1970's points type distributor & coil with the centrical and vacuum advance so the that's also a big step up from one of the older Load O Matic distributors.
 
my concern would B more 'mounts' and automotive "bell" (even the frnt dress might B OK)...
 
'if you have the time, looks like the Compressor engine could be worth investing some time. Some applications may have forged pistons for sustained-constant RPM use. If you get to keep trailer, it would make good 'run stand' to test/prep and tune before installing in the car.

Ford six 'industrial' is/was used in Compressors, Generators, Airport 'Tugs", and others. I worked at a Mountain Ski Hotel with Ford six powered 'Snow Trackers"



... here's a Mustang 200 auctioned from the Columbia Univ. Engineering Department . Adapted to a much earlier engine cradle, it has Exh. gas temp probe. , oil temp sensor and steampunk' tranny output oiling system. The 200/3.03 spun their DYNAMOMETER, powering a DC Generator into racks of stepped resistance loads and evidently was evidently an engine only upgrade to the ancient huge early 20th century DYNAMOMETER that filled a working basement garage where I picked it up.

. . .





have fun
 
Kouwell, much more familiar w/the 300's use out there.
1950s into the 60s Chessepeake Bay hada fleet of racers - most teak wood, brass fitings (beautiful).
Several of the fastest used the 200 & automotive speed equp (Offie got it's start in marine speed 20, 40 yrs earlier).
Pretty neat to see the ford blue under the deck on the later models...
 
I've got a 78 Case 1830 skidsteer that I re-powered with a 170 out of a Maverick. I used the governor setup off of a 200 out of a Versatile 400 swather. My governor is belt driven and looks like this.
IMG_2387.jpg
 
"wh the!"....almost looks like a combo throttle/air pump w/the location/belt/case/lever.
Much beddah den da Tecum 160. That might have been the weakest skid case made. I
used my bronk similar to the case in the woods. 2.8L w/those HUGE counter balances on the crank
got some surprising jobs done...course 411 rear, 6:1 in transfer paired well w/it. Never seen a yellow 2.8...

Thnx 4 da pic!
 
The yellow was me testing out engine paint colors, I was trying to find one that matched the skidsteers exterior color.

that wasn't it.
 
I would be very curious how the 170 bolted up in the case skid loader.. I have come across an 1835 or 2 needing an engine
I'll have to fix my signature tomorrow... its too late for today.
 
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