rear main seal and head dowels

[riley_smitty]

hey guys,
my cylinder head is at the machine shop getting checked out, porting to ensue once the head is deemed crack free. two quick questions as im starting to gather parts. Do the 200's have head dowels in either the block or head for alignment? when i took mine apart there was nothing. how am i supposed to make sure everything stays lined up during the head install process?
Also does anyone have a part number for a rear main seal that is a two piece rubber design that will work on a 200 crank? really trying to steer clear of rope seals.

Thanks,

Riley

 

[chad]

the dowels R 2 or 4 lill pins U may (or may have not missed) that locate (when used, as is recommended) the dowel plate, block plate that sits between the motor and bell housing. Holes in each mate by these pins which stick in/out 3/8 ora 1/4 inch. None are "head dowels". The block plate also is a locator - for starters.

"...make sure everything stays lined up during the head install process? ..."
That will happen as it can only B done 1 way w/the head bolts. I like to use studs instead & lower the head onto the block w/them in the block. It is believed studs allow better clamping pressure as well (as other advantages like I expect to change the head out later & again, this will assist).

Do U have "the Handbook"?

 

[riley_smitty]

I get that the head can only go one way but most engine have dowels on the deck of the block that locate the head and prevent minor misalignments. I guess the 200's dont have these.

 

[riley_smitty]

And yes i have the handbook

 

[bubba22349]

Here are some neoprene two piece rear main seal numbers for your 200 six.

Ford Motorcraft OEM seal C9AE6701B
FelPro BS30135
Corteco 17042
National 5116
Mahle JV730P

I used lots of the Motorcraft orginal equipment seals back in the late 1960's and into the 1980's they are going to fit right and do the job, sometimes you can still find an NOS seal for sale on eBay and other sites like antique Ford parts stores.

I have also used lots of the FelPro seals in the past (they were a big favorite of mine) and back then they also would fit correctly and worked as they should. However just so your aware a few years back quite a few of our site members were having issues with the FelPro rear main seals not fitting properly, I haven't heard if FelPro has fixed this problem yet or not, I hope they did. The last three seal brand numbers I haven't used before so I don't know if they fit well and work but it's worth checking them out. I suspect that last one Mahle might be good just because so many of their other parts are of top quality. So I would take your rear main cap with you to try out the seals that your locale auto parts store has in stock to see if those other seals will fit properly i.e. Snugly into the seal grove. As for if your head or block uses dowls look for a hole in the block deck that's about a 1/4 or 5/16 inch hole in the front and the back of the block if there stick a small screw driver in the hole to see if it bottoms out. If it dose then that could of been a dowl hole or you could post a good picture of your block deck and we will let you know. Best of luck

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, the old rope style rear main seal has a steel pin in the cap to hold the rope. If you go with the later 2 piece rubber seal you must drive the pin out and fill the hole. I think silicone works. Or else the pin will tear the new seal. I don't remember dowel on the head. I think the head and gasket can slide around until you get 2 head bolts started. Good luck

 

[bubba22349]

One other thing you can try in case of a block that doesn't have or use alignment dowels, this meathod is used by some of our site members. Find or pick up two long bolts that match your head bolts size and their thread pitch then cut the heads off, next cut a slot in the top so you can use a screwdriver to remove them. Put one of the cut off bolts in the front of the block and the other one in the back to use as guides to keep the head gasket and head aligned until you get the head bolts all started. Then remove the cut off bolts and replace with your last head bolts. Good luck

 

[drag-200stang]

The passenger side front and rear bolt holes in the head and the gasket are made smaller to guide and align the head and gasket...Those two for sure, and others should be used as your alignment studs or pins location...Even better if you modify the guide pins so the threads are not at gasket level, just the shank.
If you look you will see.

 

[chad]

"...yes i have the Handbook..."
while on hd studs U will C in the Handbook spec treatment on # 11 & 13 (H2O pump & oil path).

done any machining to it prior to this ? Other mods ?

 

[65coupei6]

Who needs dowels when you can use these: https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... 70-200-250

Unless you already bought new head bolts.

 

[chad]

Who needs dowels when you can use these: https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... 70-200-250
Unless you already bought new head bolts.

Pete'n re-Pete? my 2 friends:
"...make sure everything stays lined up during the head install process? ..."
That will happen as it can only B done 1 way w/the head bolts. I like to use studs instead & lower the head onto the block w/them in the block. It is believed studs allow better clamping pressure as well (as other advantages like I expect to change the head out later & again, this will assist).

then we got the 'sticki" right abpve this thread listing on the Index age from Rich Creations:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74573