Stupid Question Re: Cooling System

[bkrdave36]

I have an aftermarket aluminum radiator with an electric pusher fan. The fan was installed WITHOUT any sort of temp switch/thermostat to switch it off / on when engine temps reach preset limits. Instead, its wired to run all the time (when ignition on).

I am going to order a relay and thermostat kit from the radiator company. But where would I install the thermostat? There should be a spot on the block somewhere or on the head, right? If so, where is it?

[When I say thermostat I am NOT referring to the thermostat inside the water system.]

I am running a 200cid motor.

Thanks!

 

[chad]

'water neck', thermostat housing, usually hasa bung to drill out, tap.
"only stupid Q is the 1 unasked"

 

[powerband]

.. some 'water necks' on top hose have drilled bung, most did not. You can have it drilled to a NPT fitting or find one already drilled.
Alternately, the thermostat /relay kits are available with tie-wrap sensor on the radiator or hose.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?Sor ... stat%20kit


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4959

have fun

 

[wsa111]

Make sure your alternator has enough Amps to cover the extra load.
There are 100 amp alternators out there or convert to a 3G one.

 

[chad]

3G better than "GM one wire".
powerband has some good links and U need a radiator hose 'tap' or the 'stab it in the radiator fins" idea.
Let's go w/drill out, thread the water neck for durability and 'finish'.
We have some threads on it using the Tarus fan/equip...

 

[wsa111]

Depending on you engine thermostat you will have to match up with a correct sender.
I run a 180 thermostat & i finally found a temperature match with one from Speedway Motors.

 

[bkrdave36]

I will look at the thermostat housing and see if there is a pre-tapped access or if I have to machine one out. Thanks for the help.
Happy Halloween!

 

[bkrdave36]

I did a quick search on Summit.com . Does this look like it will work? It seems to have an additional "screw -in" access port. I just want to be sure i am understanding what you all are talking about.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb- ... ?rrec=true

Thanks!

 

[65coupei6]

Most aftermarket thermostat housings have the extra outlet now. I am sure you have an Oreilly or Autzone in Az.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/do ... neck&pos=0

But which realy kit are you buying? Post a link.

 

[chad]

for me Dorman is almost like NAPA the best around my house (a manufacturer, a retailer).
The "Marco's one" is what I'd go for. Looks to have the wrk done *drilled, tapped, plugged") to
the one on ur motor.
Check it out'n C...let us know if ya want.

 

[bkrdave36]

After actually looking at the situation under my hood it appears both the inlet and outlet tubes have a "screw in" port already. Do I add the sensor to the top tube or the lower tube?

(I have a photo but my phone wont let me attach it to the message here. )

 

[bkrdave36]

Here is a photo of the situation under the hood.

(My wife likes orange so the Ford motor is orange...)

 

[chad]

I'd say its the bigger, Dave. I think the smaller is for the "under-carb-water choke". (A'course this car never hada lectric fan).

Pic R such a great idea on this kinda forum.

Plez google on line to C some of the different ways to do the job B4 buying ur product. The best 4 us seemed to B 1 on 360* Mustang. It showed use ofa Tarus - dual fan/shroud/wiring harness/thermo (like said above, needa 110 alt - the ford G3 a wonderful upgrade as U R at it. I put in H4 hdlghts @ same time as at my age I need more light [crazier drivers, faster traffic] than when this rig wuz made. The way I prefer: 1) oem from junk yrd means top quality ford prts, 2) the whole system, 3) eyeballs on a finished system I can copy on my own (get the guidance of how it look/wrks for appropriate instal).
Ur latest Q can B answ by the size of what U buy (that hole facing the camera).

And now U will C - the rest0mod hobby (an older car for daily driving or just more than parade duty [3x a yr]) isa situation where "when U get in there U see something else needs attention" (to B done right/2 ur satisfaction). I do sail powered ocean racing & we say sompin many a land luber knows 'a boat isa hole in da ocean U throw money in" and here, to it applies. We want our equipment to B up to snuff (each of us hasa different standard the, no?). From Leo w/my edit:
Have fun Be safe AND productive !

 

[Econoline]

You want it on the outlet(the upper one past the stat). You want a sender that works with you're thermostat size/temp rating not against it. The sender( single terminal) should ground the negative coil leg of a relay that throws the power(or chassis ground) to the fan. The senders have open and close ratings, like, closes at 190, opens at 180, ect. If you had a 190 deg stat you'd want one that closes at 195 or better and opens at 185 or so iirc. I'll have to recall my setup, it works well. I'm running a lower temp but it's been so long I can't remember what it is. I'll have to look at my receipts.

 

[drag-200stang]

I think that it would be more efficient to have it on the rad. or maybe at lower radiator hose by the radiator with a tee of some sort...Where I live in winter driving , the water in the radiator could be very cold...With old engine driven fans we would put cardboard to block air flow or the engine would not get to good operating temp, and you would freeze...No sense to have the fans on when the incoming water is too cold.

 

[chad]

Hey drag,
I thought the flow was op[osite:
last place to have the water was the top, on
way into radiator. So hottest temp is up there.

 

[drag-200stang]

That is right Chad, If the water is -20f in the rad going to the water pump why do we want the fans to turn on just because the engine just got to operating temp, over cooling #1 cyilinder.

 

[wme013]

That's why you want an adjustable controller, YOU set the temp when YOU want the fan to come on. If its to cold then it stays off.
With the sensor after the thermostat it works great.

 

[Econoline]

I think that it would be more efficient to have it on the rad. or maybe the lower bung at the water pump...Where I live in winter driving , the water in the radiator could be very cold...With old engine driven fans we would put cardboard to block air flow or the engine would not get to good operating temp, and you would freeze...No sense to have the fans on when the incoming water is too cold.

Sender selection controls when the fan runs. The outlet temp is going to be a more accurate representation of engine temps. I'd think if it's so cold that the radiator becomes super efficient, you're still going to need cardboard. Having the fan come on when water out of the radiator is 190-195? What's the incoming temp at that point when it's sub zero and the radiator is running max efficiency? The heater bypasses the radiator. If there was a problem keeping the engine at temp the fan won't be running or VERY short cycling. If the fan was causing the problem, you could up the sender rage 10 or 15 deg. On at 205 or 210 off at 190-195. Remember, back in those old days of cardboard the fan was on all the time.

 

[wsa111]

That's why you want an adjustable controller, YOU set the temp when YOU want the fan to come on. If its to cold then it stays off.
With the sensor after the thermostat it works great.

Welcome aboard, can you suggest an adjustable controller? Bill