The fans control the temp of the water in the radiator and the water thermostat control the engine temp...I am not a mechanic of modern cars but I remember having to get a temp sw. to fill a hole in the sirocco al. radiator I bought, in my drag car, saved 10 lbs...I think that you will find that is how it is done now... of course it needs to be adjustable for best usage...A google search will explain it better than I can.
Stupid Question Re: Cooling System
- Thread starter bkrdave36
- Start date
drag-200stang":h6h8wsf1 said:
X2 absolutely it should be at the bottom of radator this is were the coolant is at its lowest temp after cycling through the radator!
wme013":h6h8wsf1 said:
X4 that is right you will loose your peak effecancy / economy by over cooling your engine! Dropping the engines temp to much can cause the Thermostat to open and close trying to maintain the engine at its operating temperature.
drag-200stang":h6h8wsf1 said:
X6 Bingo!
I edited my first post because at the water pump is not a good place because of the return of the heater water and bypass ports, throwing off the true radiator water temp.
Well, all I know is my setup works perfectly. About as low as we get is 10, rarely, I don't think it would cause any issue keeping the engine at temp. Think about it, if the fan isn't running and you can't keep the engine to temp.... How is sender placement going to help?
There is no problem putting the sender in the thermostat housing. My efi sender is there and it barely reads 5 off from the sender in the head.
You want the sender/controller up top so the fan comes on when the engine is the hottest to cool it off. Why put it on the bottom?
bkrdave: If you want my old fan controller you can have it. I will send you a PM.
You want the sender/controller up top so the fan comes on when the engine is the hottest to cool it off. Why put it on the bottom?
bkrdave: If you want my old fan controller you can have it. I will send you a PM.
The sensor that screws into the thermostat housing is fixed, you have to chose the temperature you want it to operate at.
Typically its like the on temps range from 180 to 210 with the off being 20 cooler
The adjustable kits use a sensor that looks like a pencil that you push between the radiator fins. Usually as near as possible to the radiator inlet (hottest water). The controller has a dial that lets you adjust the fan turn on temp, somewhere between 160 and 210.
They both work, just go to Jegs or Summit and search cooling fan controller or adjustable cooling fan controller.
Youtube videos will give the install tricks.
Typically its like the on temps range from 180 to 210 with the off being 20 cooler
The adjustable kits use a sensor that looks like a pencil that you push between the radiator fins. Usually as near as possible to the radiator inlet (hottest water). The controller has a dial that lets you adjust the fan turn on temp, somewhere between 160 and 210.
They both work, just go to Jegs or Summit and search cooling fan controller or adjustable cooling fan controller.
Youtube videos will give the install tricks.
In my mind if you have a problem with not enough heat you're fighting the thermostat. That was my point in my original reply in regards to sender selection. You don't need a variable control and a bunch of complicated stuff. Use logic and your best guess and maybe you'll have to change it's range once. It'll be way cheaper, less problematic in the long run and forever imo. You can get any range you need for those switches. Don't just rely on what you find on Summit or whatever. Ebay has those single post temp switches in every range you can imagine for dirt cheap. K I S S
The two types of cooling setups use either a monitored temp. sensor with a controller to set the ON?OFF control OR only a Thermal Switch set to specific ON/OFF temp control.
Inexpensive 'snap switch' on/off on the SC'd 250 triggers a higher current capacity relay needed for the large Fan . 185/175 * water neck Switch /Relay etc = @ $35
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890115?rrec=true
The NA 250 Comet TriPower uses a Perma Cool adjustable thermostat control from sensor also in the water neck outlet to fan relay.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-18905
have fun
Inexpensive 'snap switch' on/off on the SC'd 250 triggers a higher current capacity relay needed for the large Fan . 185/175 * water neck Switch /Relay etc = @ $35
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890115?rrec=true
The NA 250 Comet TriPower uses a Perma Cool adjustable thermostat control from sensor also in the water neck outlet to fan relay.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-18905
have fun
The way we use these cars there is nothing wrong with the fan switch thermostat in the neck. But let's say yesterday, I had the fan switch thermostat in the thermostat neck set for 175-180. It was 31 degrees yesterday when I went to work. I live in the country, 10 miles of 55 mph driving before the first stop. After the first couple miles, temp gauge showed full engine temp. So now the fan turned on. But going 55 mph and 31 degrees, there was enough cooling from the air flow from speed to keep the radiator cool enough not to get hot. But the fans are running for no reason, also working the alternator and belts. With the thermostat for the fan at the radiator, in a place that would actually monitor the radiator coolant temp that would be going into the engine, the fan would not have ran for those 10 miles until the first stop to get coffee waiting in the drive thru.
X2 Drag-200Stang, this is also my belief as well as what I learned different parts of it in Aircraft A&P and Auto / Truck Mechanic training working in those trades, at speed on the hyway at about 40 or 45 MPH most often you don't even need a fan turning for engine cooling. The science proves this out too, in the amount of air flow, radiant heat, and thermal heat transfer. You will get enough air flow over the engine block, radiator tubes & fins, to keep the engine cool enough. The goal for good performance and economy is to keep as much heat in the engine as possible (195 to 205) it is also why all current late model cars and truck operate at about a 15 degrees higher engine temp than our vintage Six's did. Being at a stop light or stuck in slow traffic is another story. The factory equipped cars using electric cooling fans all started out with a temperature controlled switch mounted at the bottom of the radator. It will take power to run these electric fans and the Alternator to recharge the battery again. This is why I also liked the Thermostic Clutch fans when they came out they only operate when the temperature is high enough outherwise less engine power is being used, an electric fan set up correctly could also be effecent. I don't know what the new set model cars are using since I don't work on them but I am also sure there could be be other ways as this great discussion has shown. My question is not just what can work but which way is going to give the very best results in operation as well as in effecantcy? Best of luck 
Y the 180 - 190 on ford i6 v the higher modern?
(I tried to get to this w/an earlier post "What's too cold?").
When U say 'thermostatic fan' I think of the clutched:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_clutch
Stop'n go, city traffic, my rig if in the gradients'n 1st gear (5 - 10 mph) seem to call on these extra measures.
As with all automotive Qs the answ continues to B "What is the final application?"
(I tried to get to this w/an earlier post "What's too cold?").
When U say 'thermostatic fan' I think of the clutched:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_clutch
Stop'n go, city traffic, my rig if in the gradients'n 1st gear (5 - 10 mph) seem to call on these extra measures.
As with all automotive Qs the answ continues to B "What is the final application?"
Well all, I'm here in Phoenix AZ. The car isn't a daily driver, just a weekend cruiser (and not every weekend).
My problem isn't running cold, its running hot even with the electric fan running nonstop as it is wired now (someone once asked me if I had a blower on the motor - that's how loud it is).
I'm going to go through the whole cooling system anyway, but I figured I may as well wire in an off on sensor for the fan while I was doing it.
My problem isn't running cold, its running hot even with the electric fan running nonstop as it is wired now (someone once asked me if I had a blower on the motor - that's how loud it is).
I'm going to go through the whole cooling system anyway, but I figured I may as well wire in an off on sensor for the fan while I was doing it.
X2
drag-200stang":3ugrbzmr said:
I get what you're saying but you're making an assumption that the fan will run. Run when you don't want or need it. It won't. I thought about all this stuff when I was working to convert the van and what I found was that running down the road, the fan never runs. And that's in a 60's van in a doghouse with poor airflow and tight space. The only time the fan runs on the highway is in the beginning on a hot day.
Slow down to an intersection and she'll kick on.
That's a good looking Ranchero btw
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