All Small Six Will this head work???

This relates to all small sixes

jrock

New member
The original head from my 66 Mustang has the broken "ears" on the ends. I heard they can be repaired but if I could find another head at a decent price I'd go with that. Can someone identify this please and let me know if it will work with my original 200 block.

20240426_172137.jpg

20240426_172613.jpg

My original is on the left. And I noticed whatever it is called, the long part that goes above the valve springs there are 2 holes on mine at the end and just the 1 hole on the other head.
 
Hi, the later heads are more desirable, but the carb opening is larger, so the original doesn't fit, and the combustion chamber is larger, so the head needs to be milled to @ a 53 CC chamber size. I would plan on a complete valve job, and check carefully underneath, between 3-4 for cracks before doing any work on the head. Good luck
 
On the rocker shafts , Some people believe that the early shaft with the oil dump at the front stand is better for oiling the distributor gear. Ford dropped the oil dump on later engines. the shafts are interchangeable. I would use the one that has the least wear.
 
Thanks for the info. Glad to hear this head is compatible with my 200 block. 20 bucks at a swap meet so I'm happy I got one without broken ears on it. But I haven't attempted to get the bolts out yet so wish me luck. Lol. I didn't have a carb anyway so getting one is in the plans. What's a good one to run with this particular head?
 
Here's a hack job. Looks like the po didn't wanna buy a bigger carb to fit on this block so he used the smaller plate from his original and busted the ends off so the 2 bolts would reach the bigger opening.20240427_112719.jpg
 
And I think I remember reading somewhere that a different distributor is needed? Is this true?
That depends. If still stock, your engine's carburetor and distributor were made to work together. So if you change your carb you'll need to change the distributor too. You could get an adaptor and keep the original carb, and the original distributor too. But upgrading the two items to later versions is usually reguarded as a good thing.
 
That depends. If still stock, your engine's carburetor and distributor were made to work together. So if you change your carb you'll need to change the distributor too. You could get an adaptor and keep the original carb, and the original distributor too. But upgrading the two items to later versions is usually reguarded as a good thing.
I never had a carb to start with so getting the correct bigger one makes sense to me. Also the picture above with the broken off ends on the carb plate, I obviously need the correct sized one for a bigger carb which would have came on this head originally. Can you get those aftermarket or do I need to scrounge the internet in search for one?
 
I never had a carb to start with so getting the correct bigger one makes sense to me. Also the picture above with the broken off ends on the carb plate, I obviously need the correct sized one for a bigger carb which would have came on this head originally. Can you get those aftermarket or do I need to scrounge the internet in search for one?
Normally you would have to scrounge. Here's a mis-labeled one for almost free on eBay. It won't last long at this price, if you don't buy it someone else will. I'm tempted. Hmm, can I link it...
 

A nice one sold cheap a few weeks back. Here's a kinda crusty sample of an 1101 carb, one of the types that would fit. It doesn't have a SCV, so I think it's actually like a '69 or so. You see a lot of mis-labeled stuff on eBay. Sometimes it's a good way to get a deal if other buyers don't spot it.
 
Normally you would have to scrounge. Here's a mis-labeled one for almost free on eBay. It won't last long at this price, if you don't buy it someone else will. I'm tempted. Hmm, can I link it...
How did you know that's the correct one for the bigger carb? Is there a telltale sign that shows that? I'm just trying to learn what to look for.
 
How did you know that's the correct one for the bigger carb? Is there a telltale sign that shows that? I'm just trying to learn what to look for.
The older smaller throated ones usually have a water pipe cast into the side of it. The newer ones for the large log heads have no pipe and are kind of flatter and simpler. They're easy to spot once you've seen them. That one on eBay might have been on an early Comet or Falcon if the original 144 had been replaced with a newer large log 200 engine. Ebay sellers often don't know what they're talking about. Sometimes I don't either...
 
There's a recent thread "Vacuum Fitting for DODE Carb Spacer" where I posted pics of a couple of the spacers you need.
 
How did you know that's the correct one for the bigger carb? Is there a telltale sign that shows that? I'm just trying to learn what to look for.
FYI, the hacked up small bore carb plate you have now is from the one year (1968) that there was no coolant pipe running through it. Too bad, they can be hard to find, and have their uses. But while I was looking on eBay for the big bore one you need, I saw two of the pipeless variety, one pretty cheap. My low-ball offer was accepted, and now I've got one for the spare spacers box!
 
FYI, the hacked up small bore carb plate you have now is from the one year (1968) that there was no coolant pipe running through it. Too bad, they can be hard to find, and have their uses. But while I was looking on eBay for the big bore one you need, I saw two of the pipeless variety, one pretty cheap. My low-ball offer was accepted, and now I've got one for the spare spacers box!
So the big bore one I need, do I need the pipe or not on it? And I'm not wanting to buy one just yet until I get this head checked out. Congrats on your ebay score!
 
So the big bore one I need, do I need the pipe or not on it? And I'm not wanting to buy one just yet until I get this head checked out. Congrats on your ebay score!
I've never seen the bigger bore spacer with a pipe, I don't think any varieties ever had them. As you get into the 70s there are some with EGR valve mounting flanges on them, avoid those. Some people with the older small bore spacers don't bother to run the heater hose through them any more, depending on their engine set-up, local climate, or personal preference. Unless you go with a two-barrel adaption or something more exotic, you'll be wanting one like the eBay ad I linked. You're right though to get your new head cleaned up and checked for cracks before you do anything else. And as a D5 head the original valve seats are not hardened for use with unleaded gas. They may have been upgraded at some time in the past already, lots of things get changed on these cars over time. I have seen some postings that the 1.649 intake valves are getting hard to find. If you are going to replace seats anyway, consider going to the 1.750 intake valves for a little better flow. Larger exhaust valves can be used too, but of course it costs more...
 
Back
Top