1100 Rebuild Questions -

[Bort62]

So I've got my 1100 all apart, and the parts have been sitting in the ultrasonic cleaner at work for the the weekend. Needless to say, everything is pretty clean.

So, the rebuild kit hasn't shown up yet, but I am curious about one thing. I have the following guide:

http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Ford ... ndexf1.htm

And I seem to be missing the weight and Ball that go in Well T. (Step 13)

My question is, did I just lose it taking it apart? (doubtful) or is it possible it wasn't there, and my car ran o-k without it?

Also, I am slightly confused by the distinction between a dashpot and the acc pump. I am familiar with the acclerator pump circuit but what is the dashpot function? It seems to give a squirt when the throttle is closed.

Lastly, what is the piston device sealed by the alumium press plug on the top of the carb? Is this supposed to have the same function as a power valve?

I've only ever rebuilt Q-jet's before so some of this stuff is new to me.

 

[simon]

Bort, if you know your way around a quadrajet from years of experience, rebuilding the autolite 1100 will be a cakewalk.

the ball checks and weight are part of the accelerating pump system, acting as a valves upon acceleration and deceleration.
the ball check at the pump closes on acceleration, preventing fuel from getting pumped back into the bowl. The outlet ball check and weight close on deceleration, preventing air from entering through the acc. pump nozzle in the carb throat.

Without those tiny bits, the carb sure will run, since the basic operations of idle and power circuits are not affected. The acceleration pump won't work correctly however.

The dashpot, which looks (and basically functions) like "a second acc. pump" is a hydraulic dampner which slows down the closing throttle.
This feature came on auto transmission applications only, but works on manual trans engines as well.

The piston assembly sealed by an aluminum plug on the air horn assembly is a vacuume-operated fuel enrichment device, or more commonly a power valve - just as you have guessed.
As long as the rod still moves freely it is best left alone and not to be taken apart. WD40 works wonders on freeing up stuck pistons and rods.
The economizer valve can be calibrated using shims under the narrow part of the return spring.

have fun, the 1100 (and its bigger brethren 1101) are easy designs!

 

[rookie sixer]

Thanks for posting that information! I just pdf'd it for future reference so I can use it for my 1100.

 

[Bort62]

Well, Here's hoping the rebuild kit come with the Ball & Weight. If not, Im going to have to get creative.

After reviewing what you said Simon and taking a look at how everything goes together, that makes perfect sense.

 

[jamyers]

The kit should have all new checkballs and a weight.

If you don't want the dashpot (on the passenger side of the bowl), it can be disabled by either removing the link from the throttle shaft, or you can leave out its checkball(s). All it does is squirt gas back into the bowl to slow down the closing of the throttle. I left mine in place and removed the link.

Yup, rebuilding a 1100 is a piece of cake compared to a Q-jet (my favorite carb in the whole wide world!).

 

[fb71]

Yup, rebuilding a 1100 is a piece of cake compared to a Q-jet (my favorite carb in the whole wide world!).

FOR WHAT? TARGET PRACTICE?

 

[Bort62]

The Quadrajet is an excellent Carb.

I was able to pull 23 mpg highway with one in a heavily cammed SBC.

And also make plenty of power. If I were building a Carbed V8 the Q-jet would be my first choice.

 

[addo]

Probably mine, too. But I'm unlikely to ever build a V-8.

 

[Bort62]

Probably mine, too. But I'm unlikely to ever build a V-8.

What a Coincidence, me either!

Well, Certainly not a carbed one.

 

[ludwig]

The best part about running sixes is that every three spark plug changes you get the fourth one free.

 

[addo]

Plugs are sold at $4 by the each here.

 

[woodbutcher]

Damn Addo,at those prices,they ought to KISS you at the check out counter.Last time I bought plugs here I paid about US$8.00 including sales tax for Autolites.
Leo

 

[xctasy]

:nono: Addo, the semetic peoples invented supply and demand, you deserve a free spark plug...

2 sparrows sold for a X units
5 sparrows sold for 2X units

Buy 4, get 1 free is a valid transaction. The more you buy, the more you save!

 

[simon]

at those prices,they ought to KISS you at the check out counter.

hey Leo, them Euro prices are even higher.

what are the employees behind the counter supposed to do when I ask for a simple 4100 rebuld kit for, like, 80 bucks?

(thank god for the invention of internet, and for freedom of contract and trade. I can get brand new carb kits from Canada for about 30 bucks incl. shipping, or NOS for little more from the USA through eBay)

 

[addo]

Which leaves you $50 to buy a kiss locally. The horrible carb kits here are overpriced too.

 

[simon]

horrible carb kits?

Like, do they remove essential parts from the kits too, then sell those parts separately for the same price as the whole kit?
That was one of the reasons I embraced four to eight weeks of delivery rather than getting screwed royally by local stores..

 

[addo]

They're cheap, Asian made kits. Forget about passage plugs or check balls; just a few gaskets, needle and seat, accelerator pump diaphragm.

An exploded drawing barely larger than microfiche, yet so badly printed it won't magnify.

Perhaps this is why I like SU carbs? No need for a diagram and all the kits seem good quality!

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Simon.At 80 bucks you ought to get MORE than a kiss.Hehehehe.
Leo

 

[Bort62]

Well, I got it all back together. The stupid kit I got didn't have a new float, or the weight on the acc pump check ball.

So I re-used the old float, and used a 1/2" long peice of 10-32 allthread for the weight.

Flattened all of the surfaces and put her back together. Seems to run great, and I haven't even had to adjust anything.

 

[simon]

NOS kits (like the ancient motorcraft, carter zip or jiffy kits) had much more parts than the new ones. They pop up on eBay quite often from folks who have stored them for decades. I have never seen a kit that came standard with a new float, though.

What type of float does your 1100 have? If its the old brass float, it can be repaired by soldering in case its leaky. They also polish up nicely with some 000 steel wool or NevrDullâ„¢.
The newer nitrophile foam floats, despite being cheaper in production, might crack and /or absorb gas. I have no experience in repairing those... well not yet at least.

If you have access to an engine lathe: the ball check weight is made from round aluminum bar stock, 0.195"diam., beveled edges and weighs appr. 0.025 - 0.030oz / 0.7-0.8gram

Compared to other, more complex carbs, the sturdy 1100 design gets by with an amazing amount of throttle shaft play. Anyways, polishing the shaft, a liberal layer of nickel and chrome and a .002-.003 brass liner are an easy fix if you can handle a micrometer. Only the worst-worn cases need bronze bushings and a new shaft.