170 turbo?

[mr.mustang]

I have read hours worth of post but could not find a 170 turbocharged car. I am going to start this project but would like a little insight. I want to keep my 170 (even though the 200 is a simple direct swap) because it is original and it runs perfect. So my question is there any objection to run a turbo in a 170. I don't wont monster gains but i want to be able to pass a granny driving a minivan. I dont want to jeopardize the engine in anyway. My only knowledge of turbos are reading your post but i know the recommend size for my engine is a t3 .63 a/r but do you think running a smaller a/r like .4something will be safer or is it worst? everything is stock except for a 5200 and dsII. the 5200 is on a adapter plate and i have a 4 core radiator. please don't be too hard on me on asking these question.

 

[Crosley]

I would be concerned with the 170 if the block is a 4 main block on the crank shaft... the 200 motors were usually 7 main blocks as I understand how Ford built them

 

[wallaka]

I don't think a .48 exhaust housing would hurt anything. It would give more power low in the RPM range at the expense of higher-RPM power...which you likely wouldn't see anyhow because of the low-revving nature of the engine.

 

[rbohm]

8) with the small turbo you definitely want to run a waste gate or a pop off valve to prevent over boosting the engine. keep the boost pressure under 12psi and you should be fine.

 

[aussie7mains]

Just to let you know, there was a 170ci seven main bearing six down here in aussieland in the 66-67 falcon, they would be hard to locate, since they were never all that popular and museum pieces these days.
Ive just (after 3months) located a 200 crossflow from a 77 falcon.
A7M

 

[frank1966]

I also have a 170 that I would like to turbo. It is in a 1966 Ford Bronco..The engine runs really well and I never had problems with it..I would like some V8 power with the original engine that came with the truck..It has a 1 barrell carb and have read most of these turbo posting but once a again everyone is using a 200 or bigger. If it can be done can anyone tell me what parts I need to buy to turbo this engine..I'm pretty good at welding so the piping wouldn't be a problem..Any help will be appreciated...

 

[wallaka]

Do everything exactly the same. The extra 30 cubes isn't THAT much of a difference.

Do go for the .48 exhaust housing, though.

 

[Does10s]

Sure! Turbo'ing a 170 can easily be done.
A T3 internal wastedgated turbo should work just fine.
Just make sure you put enough fuel in it and pull enough timing and you'll be OK.

Will

 

[Anlushac11]

The four main block would not be good for say a 7,000rpm drag motor or road race machine but for a street car where 5000-5500rpm is the high side then a four main block should work just fine.

You should still do all the prescribed engine building rituals practiced such as forged rods, balancing, preferably forged pistons, if not keep an eye on low compression and low boost and you should be fine.

I recently got the chance to drive my friends 87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (3200lbs) with its 5 speed manual, 3.73:1 rear gears, 200hp 2.3L 4cyl.

A similarly geared Mustang with a 175 to 200 horsepower inline six in a roughly 2750lb Mustand or Falcon would make for a very fun street car.

I tried to find a 170 seven main crank but that beast is more rare than hens teeth.

 

[frank1966]

What will happen if I go with the .63???

 

[rbohm]

What will happen if I go with the .63???

8) you will get turbo lag. remember that the smaller the A/R ratio, the quicker the turbo spools up. but go small enough and you will have problems with over boosting, which means you need a waste gate or pop off valve to limit boost pressure. as the A/R ratio goes up, the turbo does not spool up as quickly. that prevents over boosting at low speeds, and make for good high end power. like advancing or retarding a cam, you can tune where the boost comes in by changing the A/R ratio.

 

[rocklord]

Remember, the 170 has enough wall thickness to go with standard 3.68 200 pistons, giving you a 188. Forged pistons would be easier to find for the 200 than for the 170. However, the wall thickness may be the best thing to have for a turbo.

I had a Volvo S60. When they turbocharged it, they decreased the displacement (bore) to increase the cylinder wall thickness.

Just a thought.

 

[rbohm]

Remember, the 170 has enough wall thickness to go with standard 3.68 200 pistons

8) i am not so sure about that. the 170 bore is 3.50" where as the 300 bore is 3.68" which means a .18" over bore, and i have yet to see a modern engine that allows that much over bore. if you are thinking of over boring a 170 block that far, i would have it sonic checked first to make sure you have enough wall thickness to bore the block that far.

 

[frank1966]

I was told that the piping coming out of the turbo to a intercooler should be 2 1/2" and the piping from the intercooler to the carb should be 3".. Is there any truth to this or can it all be ran 3"

 

[rbohm]

I was told that the piping coming out of the turbo to a intercooler should be 2 1/2" and the piping from the intercooler to the carb should be 3".. Is there any truth to this or can it all be ran 3"

8) since you are turboing the six, you dont need huge pipes. i would go with a pipe the size of the compressor outlet through the system. remember that from the intercooler to the intake you dont need as large a pipe since the air is cooler and thus more dense.

 

[mr.mustang]

Thanks for the feedback. call me ignorant but i still don't understand the difference between exhaust a/r or turbine a/r or compressor a/r so for example this turbo has .42/.63
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-Garre ... ccessories
is this an adequate turbo which if the two a/r should i look at. any help would be appreciated. like i said before i am don't know anything on turbo but am handy once i have the right parts thanks ps I think I have a lucky 7 main but wont be sure until next oil change

 

[Does10s]

I was told that the piping coming out of the turbo to a intercooler should be 2 1/2" and the piping from the intercooler to the carb should be 3".. Is there any truth to this or can it all be ran 3"

I like to use a pipe that's just a little larger than the outlets of whatever I'm attaching too.

So if the turbo outlet is 2", I like to use a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" pipe. If the intercooler has a 2 1/2" outlet then I'll go up to 3" after that up to the carb/throttlebody.
My thinking with this is that I don't want any of the pipe bends to cause a restriction. A larger pipe will have a larger radius and more flow capability.

Not only that, if you ever want or need to go to a larger turbo, you'll likely be already set up for it!

Will

 

[frank1966]

So where can I buy a good turbo for a good price other then ebay and craigslist???

 

[frank1966]

Ok I need some help now.I bought a turbo and I have all the piping for it.I have a one barrel motorcraft carb and would like to have it rebuilt and put a nitrophyl float but can not find any rebuilt kit for my carb or float..

Also after I have all this installed how do I regulate my fuel pressure when its starting to boost to make sure I have enough fuel or not to put too much fuel...

The carb is a motorcraft and the s/n is DOPF 9510 J 4528 I 3016.. Any input would be appreciated..

 

[Turbo_B]

Also after I have all this installed how do I regulate my fuel pressure when its starting to boost to make sure I have enough fuel or not to put too much fuel...

.

You will need to do a few things. I assume you are using a mechanical fuel pump. There is a method of "boost referencing" the fuel pump. Basically you run a vacuum line from your charge pipe into the vent on top of your fuel pump diaphragm. Its pretty well documented on the interwebs.

Other option is to use a high pressure electric pump and a boost referenced pressure regulator. This is going to be the more modern approach and is used by the OEMs.

I can't remember the OP, but there is a guy on this forum that found his carburetor would not allow fuel to flow into the float bowl as fast as the engine could burn it. He (I think) used a nitrous solenoid and a pressure switch to add fuel to the float bowl from a second port on the carb.