1960 Ranchero stuff

[RancheroBoy]

I got a 1960 Ranchero that's powered by a 1966 200 falcon six(that was out of a mustang, which doesn't change the performance of the engine) with a 3 speed. And for my final gear I am using a stock 177 gear. If this helps my Ranchero was made for a 144 with a 3 speed. Now, we a e concerned if this this thing will be hitting freeway speeds easily? Or will it be screaming. The exaust is a Classic inlines dual headers with dual glass packs that exit before the rear wheel. If anyone has any input on this it would be greatly appretiated

 

[rocklord]

If it came originally with a standard transmission, you probably have at least a 3.50 rear end. If it is, you will be screaming at freeway speeds.
My 65 Mustang with 3-spd has a 3.20 rear end which still has the revs higher than I would like.

If your Ranchero has the original rear end, there should be a code on the body tag that tells you what the rear end ratio is.

Best thing for you would be a T-5.

 

[61Futura]

I put a 66 Mustang 200 and C4 auto into my 61 Futura and it does rev fairly high when keeping up with others on the Interstate. My speedometer is reading higher than it should because of the tranny swap, so I assume I was going about 75 mph and the cheepo Tach I installed showed 3800 rpm. I have the 3.50 ratio rear end and stock 13 inch wheels. I was going to try finding some 14 inch rims and put tall profile tires on them to see if I can get the rpm's down to 3000. I also need to find some door seals so I don't go deaf from the wind noise at that speed. On the other hand, I will hate to lose the new performance I have gotten from replacing the 170 ci and 2 spd auto that I removed. I may have to keep the 13 inch wheels on unless I plan a highway trip.

Steve

 

[chad]

We're back to the systemic nature of (modifying) our vehicles.

motor is a given in this case - transmission, rear gear and tire size also have to be figured in there.
There are some good final drive ratio caculators on the net where U just plug in
"what U got" and "what U want' so U can play around with the numbers before
buyin or tryin.
That's esential for us off roaders (plus we put in the transfer case numbers for
when in 4 WD).
(I don't mess w/automatics but stall of the converter may have 2 B figured here too. Not
for drive ratio but gettin movin from a stop & when it shifts thru the reves). Then there's carb, GVW, application of the vehicle...

enjoy your ford, it's a favorite model of mine (early 60s 'chero).

 

[RancheroBoy]

Thanks guys! Yeah that really helped, but the numbers you are talking about are the numbers at the side of the door? Because when I looked up a de-coder for it it told me the engine size and color but I don't think it tells me what rear end I have in it, if I am looking at the wrong tag, can you direct, me to the right one? Because for all I know it has the stock rear end it came with. (and the wheels we are using are undecided, 13's if we can find some nice thick whitewalls for it, but right now we found some 14's with 2 1/4 whitewalls, but the tires are a little fat for the rim, they almost look like balloons. :| )

 

[chad]

for wheels I understand U can play around a lill w/the width. 7", 8", 9" rims can have wider tires than that but again U run into "baloons", coming offa the rim as driven, etc.

"...numbers at the side of the door? Because when I looked up a de-coder..."
"...stock rear end it came with..."
Good, U found a decoder. Look up ALL tags, 1 on the rear differential is what they mentioned I believe... gotta get all the info 2 know what U have 1st B4 proceeding. Cast-in numbers on the motor (later mayB on head), if no tag on the rear, other means of findin it's sz, gear ratio, etc.
Who knows what's there after how many owners, 50 yrs? Coulda swaped in something(s)...

Got pic. Some of the more well informed guys could help after a peek...

 

[61Futura]

The serial number plate on the door should have an AXLE code as the last digit on the plate. I have a J which = 3.50 . Others are 3=3.10, 4=4.00, and 5=3.20

 

[chad]

final drive ratio - tire sz, rear gear, transmission gear (for us 4 WDers + transfer gear when engaged).
There are on-line caculators where U just plug in the above numbers to find motor revs
AND
vice versa.
Allows U to play around till U find what U want rather than buying components and trying THEM out just to see they're wrong. A lill cheeper way to proceed...


good luck, let us know how U proceed!

 

[RancheroBoy]

Do you guys think it would do good on the strip? (I know we're only talking about 130 ponies under the hood) But sometime when this is done it will probably be going against my brothers '61 C10 on the strip. He's got a hopped up 292 (Parts on it aren't known yet) 3 speed, 15'' wheels and a 3.73 rear end. I think I might get a good start on him if this Ranchero has the 3.50, and mines also more lighter and aerodynamic. I don't think it's going to do well, if I win, it will probably be close...... right?

 

[Econoline]

You've got that backwards, his 3.73:1 will launch him faster than you're 3.5:1 all other things being equal but you'll have more grunt down the line.

 

[my way]

Put a tach on it and play 8) Tire size changes make a difference. Your exhaust should be great for sound and performance. Understand your dist and carburetor vacume advance function to tune for best performance. Carburation and ignition improvements help and let her sing.
My way

 

[RancheroBoy]

Well I figured out what parts his has on it, a 4 barrel carb and headers that's it. But I found the wrong number for horsepower, his STOCK came with 160. And with what i'm doing to my 120hp engine's not going to bring it up to much, and i'm keeping the original Autolite 1 barrel carb. Does anyone know how much horsepower glasspacks can bring?

 

[RancheroBoy]

Yeah we are also putting on a DUI ignition, so that should help. But we are also thiking about a 250ci two barrel head, only if we can find a cheap used one for like $100 though