200ci 1966 Mustang 200 I6 stalling when choke is fully open

This applies only to 200ci

Grimm

New member
Hey guys, new member here. I have a 1966 Mustang 200 I6 with a C4 Automatic.

I've got an issue with my engine stalling out once the automatic choke is fully open. It seems to run well when about 50% open. The issue started around a month ago while I was taking it out to get gas (0 Ethanol) and the store. I got stuck in the parking lot of the store for a few minutes, every time I would put the engine in drive it would struggle to move and die almost immediately. When running and coming to a complete stop, the car would start to idle really rough and go away when I gave it gas. Once getting it home I looked all over the car for issues mostly related to timing and vacuum leaks. I hooked a vacuum tester up to the trans line and got it between 17 and 20 because my balancer is offset from my timing marks (I read that they are known to slip over time). The car fires up first try almost every time without fail.

A little back story, I got this Mustang not running in October of 2022. I have done a decent amount of work to the car. I put in a new stainless tank, stainless fuel sender, stainless fuel line and fuel pump. Replaced all the brake components (all 4 are drums). Shift linkage was taken apart and I put the plastic bushings in and cleaned all of the parts up before reattaching it. I put a new vacuum advance on the distributor with new stainless line. All new spark plugs and wires along with the ignition points and condenser were replaced. New coil. I replaced a handful of wire connectors and electrical parts. The PCV valve, grommet and hose are new. I have an autolite 1100 that was sent to UREMCO to be rebuilt. I got the car running in May of this year (2024) and drove it collectively about 800 to 900 miles between May and August. It's been garage kept since the store run that I mentioned earlier. I replaced the valve cover gasket two days ago thinking maybe the valve cover could have had a bad gasket.

I took the plugs out and cleaned them up today, there was (to me) some oil deposit showing on all 6 plugs. I started the car hoping that the last two fixes would be my answer, but the car still had the same stalling issue once the choke fully opened. The car did run a little longer than usual (a minute or two) after the plugs were cleaned. I let the car cool down and went out to start it again, making my way around with carb spray looking for any kind of vacuum leak, but to no avail. I have also tried a 50/50 dish soap and water mixture before with the same results.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I might have left some stuff out and will try to add it in if I remember. It's been a long project for me. I'm looking into getting the engine rebuilt at my father in laws machine shop in the next year also, but I would like to enjoy the car a little more before I pull her guts and leave her sitting for a few months while I do other work to her.
 
Are you running an OEM Autolite 1100 or an aftermarket one? Sounds like carb issues. I run a manual choke. At cold start it doesn't have to be at full choke, maybe 50% and fires right up. Only time I've had running issues with the choke fully open was during overheating issues, heavy stop/go traffic in mid summer.

Your 1100 might not be enough carb for a 200, especially if it has the early smaller venturi. Carb/engine mis-match?

Better to check for vacuum leaks with starting fluid/carb cleaner or a smoke tester, rather than 50/50 soap and water. Soap and water are better for pressure leaks(tire bead) more so than vacuum leaks.

Also possible you are getting weak/slow fuel delivery to the carb. Tank sediment, especially if it's an original tank, blocked pick-up, clogged filter, failing fuel pump. At fully open choke, you could be draining the carb faster than the pump can fill it.

I had to swap in a new filter every couple months on my '63 Falcon. Was using the little Motorcraft inline style that screws right into the carb. Rebuild is new tank/sender/lines and an older style fuel pump with the canister filter on the pump.
 
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Was your Mustang equipped with the original Load A Matic distributor and SCV carb do you know? Did you remove the original carb a later Autolite 1100 carb. Possible to have mismatched components.
 
Here's info on all that:

 
It doesn’t sound like mismatched problem, it was running fine for a while after the carb was installed, then the problem started. But, when searching for problems, always look at the last things done first. I agree to start with fuel supply. Could be bad fuel🤔
 
Are you running an OEM Autolite 1100 or an aftermarket one? Sounds like carb issues. I run a manual choke. At cold start it doesn't have to be at full choke, maybe 50% and fires right up. Only time I've had running issues with the choke fully open was during overheating issues, heavy stop/go traffic in mid summer.

Your 1100 might not be enough carb for a 200, especially if it has the early smaller venturi. Carb/engine mis-match?

Better to check for vacuum leaks with starting fluid/carb cleaner or a smoke tester, rather than 50/50 soap and water. Soap and water are better for pressure leaks(tire bead) more so than vacuum leaks.

Also possible you are getting weak/slow fuel delivery to the carb. Tank sediment, especially if it's an original tank, blocked pick-up, clogged filter, failing fuel pump. At fully open choke, you could be draining the carb faster than the pump can fill it.

I had to swap in a new filter every couple months on my '63 Falcon. Was using the little Motorcraft inline style that screws right into the carb. Rebuild is new tank/sender/lines and an older style fuel pump with the canister filter on the pump.
Thanks for the input. It is an oem autolite 1100. The carb worked fine for about 3 or 4 months before this issue started. I will look into a new fuel pump. I might have an extra one sitting on the shelf already from when I first ordered parts.
 
It doesn’t sound like mismatched problem, it was running fine for a while after the carb was installed, then the problem started. But, when searching for problems, always look at the last things done first. I agree to start with fuel supply. Could be bad fuel🤔
The last 3 or 4 gallons that were in the tank are only about 2 months old, and I topped off a fresh 13 or 14 gallons in last month when I went to the store. I'll look into a new fuel pump first and see if that will fix my issue. I did put an empty water bottle on the end of my fuel line to the carb and hit the key, I would say for 4 or 5 seconds of rotating the water bottle filled up plenty. It'll be about another week before I get the part ordered.
 
I'd pull the fuel sender to check the pick-up sock first, then filter. If there is blockage, a new fuel pump won't make a difference, if your fuel pump is ok.
 
I believe the tank, lines and pickup were new. Shouldn’t be garbage to pick up, 2/3 months on ethanol free shouldn’t be a problem 🤔. Checking the filter at the carb wouldn’t hurt- contaminated fuel? ⛽
 
Hard to say. Didn't know if you had an original tank or a new one. Could be filter, a partially clogged jet in the carb, or the pump, since it was running correctly before.
 
Sounds like the pump is flowing enough.
Somewhere in the process of changing tank and fuel lines there may have been some kind of crud buildup that got knocked loose and ended up in the filter or carb.
If nothing else, try raising the idle speed a hair and going to the next hotter spark plugs since you said they were looking black.
 
Hi, it sounds like the fuel pump is good. Have you opened up the idle mixture screw? I would warm up the engine and turn it counter clockwise to richen the idle mixture. Note, the idle circuit is not working when the RPMs are high. Maybe there is dirt in the in there and you may be able to flush it out with carb cleaner. Good luck
 
Hi, it sounds like the fuel pump is good. Have you opened up the idle mixture screw? I would warm up the engine and turn it counter clockwise to richen the idle mixture. Note, the idle circuit is not working when the RPMs are high. Maybe there is dirt in the in there and you may be able to flush it out with carb cleaner. Good luck
I've tweaked the Idle Mixture screw a few times before. Somewhere in a video I watched a guy mentioned he has seen these carbs go 1 1/2 turns out to almost 4 turns out to run correctly. Mine was running very well on about 2 1/2 turns out from seated. The UREMCO shop I had the carb rebuilt at set it to 1 1/4 when running it on an engine they had (they state the rebuilt carbs are tested on engines they have before being sent out).
 
Hi, 4 turns out is not good. Like is already said, you can remove the screw and squirt some carb cleaner in the hole. Good luck
I had a bit of time tonight before work and removed the screw and sprayed carb cleaner in. The engine ran a little longer than usual, but I backed the idle mixture screw out more than I usually do. I get off at 7am and have an appointment. I plan to work on the carb right after that, if not in the afternoon when I wake up. I'm going to take the carb back off and spray out all the jets and ports thoroughly.
 
Many times I removed the Idle screw(s) and blew compressed thru the idle mixture screw hole(s).
My job depended on my being able to fix cars.
I have a small oilless compressor in my garage. I will make sure there is no water trapped inside and look at using it and a rubber tip to blow it out next. Thanks!
 
What psi does it make in the tank? If it is just a battery powered tire inflator, not enough volume, you would need to pump up an air tank
 
I always used an air blower with a 3/16" curved steel brake line on it.
Most time this was a DIY air blower modification like the one I have today.
I believe at one time a blower like this could be bought off the Snap-On Truck but that was around 50 years ago.
They were discontinued do to safety regulations
The 2 Hp Craftsman 220 volt air compressor that I bought around 1974 and still use pumps up to 150lbs then shuts off.
 
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