1bbl upgrade to 2bbl

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My 1bbl on my '65 Mustang, 200 inline 6 crapped out and started leaking through a gasket, so I went to get a new one and it turns out to be cheaper to convert to a 2bbl. My question is which adapter is better for my car and where do I buy it? Also, does anyone know the part number for the Holley/Weber 5200?

*EDIT* I did find a website to buy the adapter;however, I would like to know where else to buy these parts.

Thanks!

Drew
 
Go to summit. They have the adaptor for about $30, and you can buy brand new in box Holleys for about $300
 
I hope you meant that you can get a new 2bbl cheaper than a new 1bbl, If a 2bbl is cheaper than a new gasket I want to shop where you shop or be the guy that sells those several hundred dollar gaskets!

Do a search here and make sure you understand what you are in for, its not just the cost of the carb and the adaptor, there are issues like linkage and air cleaners that have to be dealt with.
 
Yes there is alot to consider on the switch. I thought I was ready to go 2 bbl, but I went back to my 1 bbl until I sort more things out.
One thing to upgrade before switching to a 2 bbl would be going with a DS2 or electronic ignition.
I know I wasn't burning all the gas in mine with the points type.
Do a topic search here, there have been several discussions on the 2bbl.
 
I'm already using a DSII, so that's good. The Carter YF at O'Reilly Auto Parts is $189 whereas the Holley/Weber 5200 is $130. I had to fabricate a linkage piece for the YF, so fabricating another piece to fit up should be pretty easy.

When you say air cleaner, do you mean air filter/breather? I may be a bit confused on that issue?!

I've been looking around the forum and have seen some really nice conversions. The instructions make the switch seem easy, also.

Well, for a temporary fix, what 1bbl would you recommend? I currently have a Carter YF and I don't want to deal with a rebuild. I want to change to something that doesn't take 2 or 3 exchanges to get one that works correctly.
 
I found a used RBS carb for about $20 and add a rebuild kit for it about $15.
I also have a newer engine ('78 numbers) so I can run a bigger bore carb.
I have an Autolite 1100 laying around that I bought as "rebuilt" I'd sell for a decent price. It has the smaller bore like on the older heads.
 
Okay...based on searches and what you guys have said, I've decided to rebuild my Carter YF. Since this will be the first time I've ever done a rebuild, does anyone have any warnings? Which kit should I buy?

Thanks!
 
Sorry I missed the last post. I have a '78 engine also. 250 head. Is the RBS better than the Carter YF? I've been seeing a lot of people saying to switch to a Carter YF and that's what I already have. With the 250 head, should I switch carbs to something with a larger bore or does it make much difference?
 
On the carb rebuild make sure you get a good picture (exploded view) of all the parts so you know where everything goes. Dont count on the last guy getting everything back in the right place, I have made that mistake before and took the thing apart 3 times before I got a good picture and found one little spring in the wrong place. Work in a clean well lit area where the wind is not going to blow parts around. I would also recomend working on/in something like a cookie sheet so no little parts roll away on you. A 1bbl is fairly simple but a 4bbl I have also found it handy to get something like a muffin pan to keep screws and small parts sorted to the areas they came from. Dont let the wife see you taking these into the garage though, maybe think about buying new ones and seeing if she wants to trade? You could score some points that way to make up for the next dump thing she catches you doing. Couple of cans of carb spray (with the little red straws). If its really messy and dirty you may want to buy one of those parts cleaner buckets that looks like a paint can that most of the parts stores have to let it soak overnight. Compressed air is also handy for blowing the crap out of small areas and getting all your cleaner out when you are done but a can of air (like you buy for cleaning a computer) will do if you dont have a compressor. Many of the kits will come with a little crappy square/ruler thing for setting float levels and other things, I have found these to be less than accurate, you would be bettter off going to a place like Harbor Freight and getting a $5 calliper if you dont already own one.

Those are the things I have learned about diy carb rebuilding over the years. Also plan enough time that you can get it back together the same day, that way you wont forget how things fit or loose any parts.
 
Wow. Thanks for This sounds like an entire day needs to be spent on the rebuild. I live in an apartment until December 15th, so I don't have a garage. I was thinking about using plastic drop cloths in the middle of the living room. Is this not recommended to do inside even if the floor is protected? Fumes may be bad....hmm.

Checklist:

Exploded View....Check
Muffin Pan that wife without wife knowing....Check
Caliper.......Check

Things to get:

Rebuild Kit
Cans of carb spray
Canned Air


How do I know (besides finding out during rebuild) which kit is correct for my YF?

I've been searching for part numbers and kits, but I don't want to be stuck trying to find a part because I got the wrong kit.

Does anyone know where the part number/Year/Serial or anything on the carb that will tell me the correct kit or is it a generic Carter YF kit?

Thanks for all the info, this should be really fun!!
 
Dark Spire":1fgk8q67 said:
I live in an apartment until December 15th, so I don't have a garage. I was thinking about using plastic drop cloths in the middle of the living room. Is this not recommended to do inside even if the floor is protected? Fumes may be bad....hmm.
I also live in an apartment, and I would recommend doing the job by the kitchen sink. Put the stopper in the sink!
I use a plastic dish pan and put the carb in that to work on it.
Yes, it will be really fumey, so do it when no one else is home and open the windows.
Some may disagree with this, but I also use a small cupped wire brush on a Dremel to clean and buff the outside of the carb.
If you do this, the bit will lose wires that will end up in everything from your socks to your shirts, pets, and possibly your eyes, so dress appropriately. :)
 
Thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about the sink. I can use the countertop to spread out the different parts for cleaning....genius.

Thanks again!
 
:D Many years ago a friend got an old carb that was in MAJOR need of a rebuild.Had been setting in a garage for about 15 years.To say that it was nasty is an understatement.Everything was stuck or siezed.He soaked it for almost a week in carb cleaner.No joy.Went to see a friend of his that had a repair shop.The guy just finished up a separate stall just for carb work and had one of those new fangled sonic cleaners.They both figured that the carb would be a good test subject.Took 3 days in the sonic cleaner,but in the end it came out looking like new and everything came apart easily.And the crap that came out of that carb you would not believe.
Leo
 
The only question remaining before I can do the rebuild is how can I know if I'm getting the correct Carter YF rebuild kit?
 
Tell me how much shipping will be, I'll PM you my zipcode, and we'll call it a deal. Is the carb in real good shape? Or should I tear it down JIC?
 
65Stang200":4441wkx7 said:
Tell me how much shipping will be, I'll PM you my zipcode, and we'll call it a deal. Is the carb in real good shape? Or should I tear it down JIC?
Sent you an email
 
Drew, as far as finding the right kit what I did for my 1100 was took the top off so I could get an idea what the gasket looked like and what kind of little parts were inside then I went to napa's website (because they have pictures of most of their stuff) and looked at the pictures till I saw one that looked right.

Another thing, get a pair of safety glasses because sometimes when you stick the tube of carb cleaner in a hole its not going to come out where you are expecting it to and that can be a bummer if the hole is pointing to your face. Carb cleaner is hard on a lot of surfaces, maybe do the spraying/cleaning in a medium cardboard box to catch the overspray?? Just a thought...... the sink should be alrignt but I would worry about counter tops and anything painted.
 
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