1st crank advice Carb priming)

Mac

Well-known member
Will be connecting new gas tank/sender in the next day or two and setting initial advance to 12 degrees. The wiring appears to be correct... working good on the dry run crank. So question about priming the carb. How much gas to pour in the carb, and is there an initial carb idle air setting to start with? Heres my setup:

65 mustang
1978 200ci with duraspark setup, mech. fuel pump, YF carb - SVA

Thanks!
 
I would say fill the float bowl throu the vent tube by the time the bowl starts to run out the gas should be up there... if not it should be close..
Tim
 
I'd set the carb idle mix screw 2 turns out, with the idle speed set at 1 turn past where it contacts the throttle.

I'm not sure about 6's, but with a V8 you want to run a new engine at 2,000-2,200 rpm for 20 minutes to keep enough oil splashed up on the cam lobes until they get work-hardened (seated) to the lifters.
 
i'm not sure on your project, but i like to crank the motor without the plugs in. that way I get oil pressure and fuel. put the plugs in and crank it up....
 
jamyers":2hhma99c said:
I'd set the carb idle mix screw 2 turns out, with the idle speed set at 1 turn past where it contacts the throttle.

I'm not sure about 6's, but with a V8 you want to run a new engine at 2,000-2,200 rpm for 20 minutes to keep enough oil splashed up on the cam lobes until they get work-hardened (seated) to the lifters.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Jamyers, about the rpm for 20 min, ... the tranny is a rebuilt C4 /w new TC and this will be the first its seen a turn. Got 4 qts of tranny fluid in there with the thought of adding a quart here and there until I reach 10 qts. Should I run through the tranny gears and top off to a full 10 qts during startup? rying to get the sequence of events right. Thanks!
 
I wouldn't run it through the gears with the engine at 2K rpm. I don't think I'd worry about it, as long as you're checking and filling the tranny as it all warms up. If you're really concerned about getting fluid throughout the tranny, then run it for 5 minutes, then drop the rpm down, run it through the gears, then back to Park and put the rpm back up to 2K.

Spinning the engine over without the plugs to build oil pressure is a good idea - or you can pull the dizzy and spin the oilpump shaft with a drill, but you might have to make a tool to grab the pump shaft (my knowledge in that ares runs more towards Buicks than Fords).

Key thing is to get oil pressure to the bearings asap, and then keep the cam lobes well oiled. Then get that oil and filter changed out, as they'll likely be filled with various metallic particles.
 
jamyers":pujbwp1g said:
Key thing is to get oil pressure to the bearings asap, and then keep the cam lobes well oiled. Then get that oil and filter changed out, as they'll likely be filled with various metallic particles.

I used a 1/4" drive 8mm deep well socket and a long extension connected to my electric drill. Connect that to your oil pump drive through the dizzy hole. Turn it with the drill and you will feel the resistance when the pump starts pumping oil. Let it rip for a few minutes and you should be fine. If you can't get a drill on it, you can also turn it by hand using a speed handle (or whatever you call that thing thing you see people removing oil pan and valve cover nuts with).

Some of the old timers will tell you to "use an old distributor shaft". This saves you from having to take apart a distributor. :lol:
 
Eric Rose":30830thm said:
...Some of the old timers will tell you to "use an old distributor shaft". This saves you from having to take apart a distributor. :lol:
Say, I'll bet that could be a good use for all those Load-O-Matic distributors everybody has laying around after they go to the Duraspark. Just take the drive gear off, and gut the top so you can get a drill to grab.
 
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