2 barrel upgrade

Mercury Mike

Famous Member
Well... I got some money now. I was wondering what some of you payed to get a head machined to accept a two barrel. I have a lot of heads... and I have one fresh one that's not being used currently, and I would like to adapt it. It's a flat top log head for a 200 ci. My motor's gonna be out soon so I can change some gaskets and some bolts, do a little work here and there, and paint the engine bay and get it ready for decals, so I thought if I had a head ready to go, I could get a new 2 barrel on there and waiting for me to get the engine back in the bay. What have you guys payed for the machine work, and does anyone have a good carb they wanna sell me that I can bolt on, tune, and go? Also, as far as spacer plates, what do I need in order to bolt the 2 barrel carb onto the head? Does anyone have one of these, that with the proper air cleaner, will clear my stock hood? Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna look through some more posts and try to find my information.
 
8) i used an adaptor from summit racing to put an autolite 2100 on my 170 in my 66 falcon. i also have a small aftermarket aircleaner, and everything fits under the hood.
 
Do you have the part number for that adapter from Summit? Also, do we use the same stock fuel pump for the 2 barrel carburetor? I will order the adapter soon. Do I still have to get anything machined if I use the adapter? Will I be better off machining a head and using a direct bolt-on deal with the shortest piece of metal I can use?
 
TRD-2086.

You'll need to mill the top of the log plus most probably have it welded some, plus drill some holes and tap them for attaching bolts. Best head for this is a 'flat-top', like C9-M head. I had it done on a late E0 head, but that needs more welding depending on how thin the log is milled.

Edit: you'll also need a spacer between the adapter and carb, because the fast idle parts at the end of the Autolite 2100 carb butterfly shaft will hit the log while the throttle is opened. I have used 1" thick '60s Ford aluminum adapters (from 260, 289, 302) and later '80s TBI adapters, which are more like plastic (thus block the heat better than aluminum) and they are thinner, about ½" high (hood clearance). Aftermarket stuff available.

You'll also end up thinking about the throttle linkage, unless you convert to cable (and you'll still need to think about it).
 
Could I get the adapter welded straight to the head, so that I know there wouldn't be a vacuum leak for sure? I think that would be boss, since I am gonna have a 1 barrel head and a 2 barrel head, both assembled and ready for action at any time. What do you think? Think it would work that way? That would be the way that I would wanna do it probably. If I could get the adapter welded straight on there, then I could put the spacer on, bolt on the carb, and then have it be like a permanent addition. =) My flat top will be the 2 barrel head, and my round log will be my 1 barrel. Thanks for the part number! I don't wanna drill and tap, because I don't want to chance leakage.
 
You'd have no joy welding a die-cast alloy adapter to an iron head.

Personally, I'd be tempted to make a phenolic adapter that covered all requirements Teppo outlined. Sealed to the head with blue Hylomar.
 
65Stang200":163paat8 said:
Do you have the part number for that adapter from Summit? Also, do we use the same stock fuel pump for the 2 barrel carburetor? I will order the adapter soon. Do I still have to get anything machined if I use the adapter? Will I be better off machining a head and using a direct bolt-on deal with the shortest piece of metal I can use?

8) this is the adaptor i used

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

a couple of things to note;

1: i had to bend part of the throttle arm to clear the valve cover.

2: i had to swap from the six cylinder bellcrank to the 8 cylinder bellcrank, and bend up a new bellcrank to carb rod(actually i used the six cylinder rod bent at an angle)

3: i had to grind on the adaptor a bit to allow the throttle are to clear the adaptor so that i could get full throttle at the carb.

4: i had to geta couple of bolts to bolt the carb adaptor to the stock carb spacer on the intake.

5: i had to get a small aircleaner, one that was 9" in diameter, to clear the hood, so i have decent hood clearance.

6: you will have to try a few different return spring setups to get one that has proper tension.

the swap was an easy one to do overall, and the adaptor is thick enough that you can have the base milled about 1/2" if needed to gain hood clearance.
 
8) i can take some and email them to you when i get a chance. probably tomorrow afternoon if thats ok.
 
65Stang200":iknyk5sf said:
I don't wanna drill and tap, because I don't want to chance leakage.

That is a stupid fear.
Every engine in the world with a NON-integrated intake manifold (non-log) uses a gasket, and nearly none of them leak.
 
Here is an example of an adapter fastened to the welded or brazed up log.

head2.jpg


I have had no problems with vacuum leaks as stated by Linc.

Vast improvement over an adapter to a single barrel opening. William
 
Linc's 200":2z6c1hv6 said:
65Stang200":2z6c1hv6 said:
I don't wanna drill and tap, because I don't want to chance leakage.

That is a stupid fear.
Every engine in the world with a NON-integrated intake manifold (non-log) uses a gasket, and nearly none of them leak.

I never thought about it that way. =) Thanks for the info! I will get on it with this new head. I love the look of a newww head. =)
 
my setup is very similar to wsa111's. I only used 2 bolts and used some jb weld in some spots that didnt end up flat... had nothiong but problems, until I tried using quikweld which has held up for quite a while. I have my head off now because I got bored and decided I would mess around with some porting, I ported the exhaust manifold some to try to help with the turbo and all gonna try to get some thicker tubing and I have some parts to mock it all up so we'll see how that goes.
 
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