200 build begins!

6

62 Comet

Well-known member
Finally have started putting things together, step 1 for me was to get the cam into place. Its been so long since I tore it down so I took a pic of the front where the spacer and the plate thing is and was wanting someone to either confirm or nnot if its all good and that I can go ahead and pop the dowel in all the way(any tricks you guys use?).

PICS!!!

http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... 9.jpg.html -----> Bevel of cam spacer facing dowel?
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... 0.jpg.html
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... 1.jpg.html
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/mercu ... 2.jpg.html

The cam can be spun by hand but I would like it to be easier, it was VERY easy to turn until all 4 bearing were in place but maybe Im just be paranoid. Used comp cams assembly lube on the lobes and dist. gear. wasnt sure about using it on bearings so I used my royal purple assembly lube.

Any thoughts/ideas I would love to hear them
 
Bevel towards cam journal. The bevel is to clear the radius left by the grinding wheel. Could break the spacer the way it is now.

Did you install new cam bearings? They have to be in exact order - they are all different sizes. I screwed that up one time thinking they were like rod bearings and it didn't matter, but it does. They are not always marked very well to tell.
 
Alright thanks for the heads up,

new bearings are in correctly for sure, I believe its more difficult b/c I cant wrap my hand around it anymore, less leverage.

Lee
 
8) just remember that every time you add a friction surface, you increase the effort it takes to turn a part. that is one reason why i always suggest that you turn the crank each time you add a piston to the crank shaft when that time comes. that way you can feel the increase in friction, and the increase should be more or less similar. also put assembly lube on EVERYTHING except the cam lobes, there you want to use cam lube.
 
Alright a little update, I got all crank and all the pistons in, timing chain which was a very nice snug fit.

I found out TDC and degreed the cam, its a stock timing chain so I lined up the marks and ended up with 106.5' both times using the intake centerline method, i would like to advance it to 108'. THe cam is a 264/264 112 LC Clay Smith.

The part I dont understand is how to advance it 2 degrees, I would appreciate any help you guys can give.


Thanks, Lee
 
the crank gear should have extra key ways, if you bought an aftermarket timing chain set, usually they have a total of three key ways, one straight up one four degrees advanced, one four degrees retarded. i believe the classic inlines set has 7 key ways, one straight up, the others two, four, and six degrees advanced and retarded.
 
I got my stock timing set from Classic Inlines, its a Cloyes set and it only has one key way. Maybe i will head to the machine shop or cut the keyway myself.

When you change the position of the crank gear, you just try to match the marks with each other? Is that how it is done?
 
I've had good luck using Mr. Gasket #985-G offset key. Its a 2 degree key. Just Google it - should be able to get it anywhere. It may need some contouring to fit the slot of the Ford's small block 6. I like this key because its a little longer and can be contoured to fit the crank nicely. I don't like the little short ones. Just grind it as necessary (so easy a caveman can do it). Make sure you verify your cam timing when done.
 
Its a 112 cam and I was planning on advancing it 4 degrees to 108,

I wasnt sure but I figured the 106.5 wouldnt be good to leave alone for my setup being 5.5 degrees advanced... with auto trans, how would it run at 106.5 compared to 108 would be a better question? no good//same//bad for auto trans?

Thanks again,
Lee
 
Could someone shed some light for me on the advance and retard notches in the crank gear? and how to properly adv/retd my cam.

You dont move the crank, you change notch position, in my case 2* retard, and try to eyeball the cam gear notch to match it, this is the only part I dont understand yet. Id really appreciate someone to clarify this for me.

Thanks, Lee
 
You have me confused. You said you had a sprocket with one key way, now are you talking about a multiple key way sprocket? Being you said you had a single key way sprocket, I suggested an offset key. It simply moves the sprocket over advancing or retarding, depending on if you put it in right or left. Its been a long time but I'm pretty sure putting the offset counter clockwise should retard the cam. Just line the dots up on the sprockets towards each other. Use a straight edge. And yes, something has to move if you're retarding it. Either the crank or the cam is going to move slightly. Don't worry about it. Line up the marks and recheck your cam timing. If it didn't come out as expected, turn it around. I think this also applies for multiple key way sprockets, line up the marks and check your work. I hope this helps. I know this stuff can be confusing.

If you don't understand keep asking questions, collectively we'll get this figured out.
 
Sorry man, I was just trying to figure things out, and saying if I had multiple notches that it would be the right way to do it,

The keyway on the crank comes out? is that how the offset is installed where the crank key should be, but I thought the keyway in the crank was parrt of the crank,, correct if Im wrong and I need to try to pry it out (havent tried). If it does remove from crank then I will definitly go for the offset key.

Appreciate the help,

Lee
 
8) if you use a multiple key way crank gear, and you want to retard the cam timing, you select the amount of retard that you want, in this case 2 degrees, and install the crank gear with that key way, then you line up the cam gear as required to adjust that cam timing.
 
The multi key adjustable sprocket would have been the best way of going but, being with the single key sprocket your only option is to use the offset key. You'll have to decide whether its worth returning it for the adjustable timing chain set. And yes, the key just prys out of the crank shaft. Sometimes vise-grips will work. Sometimes you have to get underneath the front edge with a screwdriver and tap it up and out. Just be careful not damage the crank slot. and the offset key I suggested will probably have to be ground some to fit the crank shaft. But that's what real hot rodding is about. Making it do what you want it to do, not what the bean counters want to give you.
 
Just curious, how much advance/retard would you end up if you just rotated the crank gear by one tooth relative to the cam?
 
redxm":32ekzgvd said:
Just curious, how much advance/retard would you end up if you just rotated the crank gear by one tooth relative to the cam?
Click to expand...

on a V8 engine its eight degrees.it isnt much different on a six.
 
if u mean skipping the chain one tooth over on the crank gear to do it , I tried out if curiosity and I went from 106.5 to 126.5, so about 20* in my case, correct me if I'm wrong..

Lee
 
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