As most die-hard 250 guys know, the engine was never a rever. It has a torsional vibration period somewhere, but its reputed to be okay to 7500 rpm if the rods, bolts and pistons don't explode.
Once you've added:-
either AU/BA 6.06" or XA-XF 3.3 6.27" rods (preped as appropriate)
with good pistons, and
a really got set of rod bolts and
a really good, big harmonic balancer and
ensured the mains are roll pined to stop spining (a David Vizard trick), and
have added a windage tray with crank scarper and enough capacity and
ensured the oil pump pressure isn't too high at max rpm
then the crank is the only worry!
The crank, being cast iron of a common grade, will possibly flex and need proper chamfers on the oil galleries, knife edging, and attention paid to the fillet radius.
Cast cranks fatigue over time exposed to vibration. Just because its been seasoned for 20 years in Mums family hack, doesn't mean it won't explode during RPM service.
The cost of this prep is huge in time and effort. Some racers in the US with the bigger 300, like the FrenchtownFlyer, have buddies who just fit some smaller journal, longer Honda rods, and use this to create a better fillet radius between the rod journal and the side of the counterweight/ crank flanges.
I'm sure some of the Aussies in Speedway are right on to it.
The best option is to go for a later crank from the OHC versions. The oil pump and main seals changed in 1987 to incorporate the new OHC production cranks in the old OHV X-flow used in the utes untill 1992.
I haven't ever been on intimate terms with the OHC, so I am only guessing regards the space for an EL fully counterweighed 12 bob crank. Earlier versions had 10 bob weight cranks of two different versions.
The OHC runs metric bolts.
AU/BA's have a different front mounted oil pump, and 2.65" mains.