200 Rebuild

[63 4spd]

The plan is to put a 200 with a T5 in my falcon this summer. I'm planning on putting one of the new heads on it (Argie), and would like good power and economy. I have two basic questions:

1) Starting with a used 200; would farming out the block and crank for machining, buying a rebuild kit, cam and the head be a good way to go? I guess what I'm really getting at is whether or not it's reasonable to do a good job balancing and rebuilding on my first try (I'll have the help of my dad and uncle who have more experience)... and would that be a cost-effective way of doing things? (I'm trying to do one major surgery rather than several small ones so I don't waste money)

2) What parts are best? (I realize that's a vague and loaded question) ... I'm going to have a good job over the summer so I have a decent buget, but don't want to waste funds unnecessarily. Are roller-tipped rockers worth the extra $300? What cam should I look for to keep good economy (mid-high 20's on the freeway)? And are stock valve springs okay, or is upgrading necessary?

I realize there are alot of questions there, and maybe not all of them can really be answered directly, but thanks in advance. Any advice or ideas would be great.
Also, I have read through the handbook several times, but would like a little bit more specific advice.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy John:

You're Right!!! It is a loaded question. But, I'll give it a shot.

First, It is cheaper to do a complete rebuild all at once. But it is a bigger chunk of dough all at once too. The advantage of doing one piece at a time is that the bill comes in smaller amounts, but the total ends up to be more.

the level of performance is a question only you can answer. The roller tipped rockers are cool, offer very little performance increase. They will be lighter and cause less valve stem/valve guide wear, and slighly less friction. Are they worth the price on a street engine that gets 27 mpg? You can buy alot of gas for $300. If you were looking for the last enth in sustained high speed, high rpm driving, you might need them.

Second, building a good short block for an Argie head is a great idea. The variables, assuming an Argie head, will be pistons and piston crown design? Static compression ratio, and cam timing. If you were building a modified USA log head there are several tried and true combinations with fairly predictible results. That is not true of the non-USA heads or the next generation of alloy heads that are emerging.

Since the short block creates the foundation for the total engine combo, it is wise to plan a bottom that compliments the rest of the engine package. Few have worked with this head package. Although it shows lots of potential. Their huge success is in Argentine racing circles, with a 221 ci variation of our short blocks. Down there they have access to cams and pistons we dream about. How these heads relate to USA parts is still largely unknown- But John/Inliner is working (Working fast) on it.

Given your stated goals, build your short block with zero deck height, with a minimum overbore small dish piston. Use a double roller cam timing chain and corresponding gear set. Plan on a dynamic balancing of the whole rotating and reciprocating package.

You will want to use at least an honest, measured 9:1 CR for best economy, considering California gas and being near sea level. The cam you chose and the head package may allow a little higher without resorting to drastic/costly crutches.

The cam is a big question mark. The strength of the Argie head is increased flow capacity. That means higher rpms. You will want a cam to compliment that. You will also need a rear gear to compliment the engine and the T5 tranny. At least a 3.50:1 rear end ratio- Probably what your '63 came with.

These are exciting times for our lowly inline sixes. You will be breaking new ground. Be objective and please share what works for you and what doesn't.

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[63 4spd]

Thanks David

Do you think stock pistions would be a good? It sounds like flat-tops wouldn't be ideal (which I was thinking also), so HSC pistons are out, and the only other options would be forged ($$$!), right?

9:1 - 9.5:1 seems about right to me. Any idea what type of cam should I look for to get a good CR without problems (and nothing too drastic because it will be a daily driver)? Reading the handbook and elsewhere, I was thinking one of Mike's 264/274 Dual patterns might be best, but I honestly don't know too much about picking out a cam.

I put in an 8" rear from a (75?) Maverick V8, and it is about 3.0:1. Would this be okay with a 4-cyl T5 (since it has lower gears) or would it be best to change out the rear grears also?

Thanks for the input, the plan is to build a very driveable engine, built specifically with the argie head in mind, for good street preformance

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back John:

The cast, small dish, replacement pistons will be more than adequate for your intended purpose. The combo of zero deck height, with a composite head gasket and small dish piston will give you a tolerable deck clearance of about .050". .040" would be better. The small dish pistons will be more resistant to detonation and pre-ignition, and generally make more power in a wedge shaped combustion chamber engine than flat-topped or domed, all else being equal.

You will have to mill your head to acquire the chamber volume to get your CR. Given your sea level elevation and Calif. gas, I'd suggest you stay closer to 9 than to the 9.5:1 CR. Polishing the piston tops and combustion chambers will help too. Polished surfaces reflect heat and resist carbon creep- both advantages when warding off pre-ignition.

Mikes dual pattern cam may be a good choice with an Argie head. They are intended to compensate for an engine with a challenged exhaust like the USA heads. It's the next one I'm going to try. It will reduce cranking pressure and cylinder pressure because of the greater duration and exhaust to intake overlap. That should help control knock too. We did a little flow bench testing on a modified log head (Ported, three angle and back cut intakes) and found that lifts over .400" were wasted.

IIRC Mike's dual pattern cam had about .450" lift on the intake and .480" on the exhaust. That's alot and may be useful with the Argie heads increased flow capacity. If you use stock springs be sure to check for coil bind, or consult with Mike when buying the cam. Stock springs shimmed .030" are good to 5,000 rpms.

The 4 cylinder T5 is good, but you might like a deeper 3.25:1 rear gear. but try the 3.00 first and see.

Adios, David