A
Anonymous
Guest
Hello. Can anyone tell me if high performance parts for the 221 are readily available and where to get them from. Im talking about things like pistons, cam, rods.... and so on. Cheers. I live in melbourne.
The Aussie and Argentine 188/221 can use a huge amount of gear from the 200 cube inch engine, but beware. The block is 0.66" taller, has lots of changes to accomodate the 3.46" stroke, a lot longer than the 3.126" of the 200. So the rods are longer, there are sump changes, and valve gear, rocker gear and lifter changes.
These little differences make it important to make sure your Counter Wally isn't reading from a US Speed and Spares Hym book, as you'll end up with the wrong gear!
Parts dealers get mixed up with the 221 Windsor V8 and the five different versions of the 200
(the Aussie 200 non cross flow,
the early US non cross flow,
the later US non cross flows,
the Aussie X-flow iron 3.3's
and Aussie X-flow alloy head 3.3's)
and the four versions of the 250
(the US 69-80 250 non cross flow,
the early Aussie 71-76 250 non cross flow,
the later Aussie 76-80 iron non cross flow 4.1's,
and Aussie X-flow alloy head 4.1's)
The rundown:-
221 pistons are just the same as the early 1966 to 1976 200 Cube non crossflow pistons. 6.5 cc dish, 50 mm in diameter. (XR, XA, XB).
ACL still make a replacement 200/221 non cross flow piston. You used to be able to get US made Sealed Power Forged pistons in 6.5 or 13 cc dishes back in the 1980's, but unless you find them on Ebay, you have to get custom ones from Ross, Iapel or New Old Stock from TRW. ACL make better cast pistons than anyone. Deck height for the pistons are the same as any 1961 to 1993 ohv Ford I6, 1.53". The later X-flow ones have anything from 15 to 28 ccs of dish, and that might be great for a turbo, but its not much good for a high comression 221. The later ACL Race pistons for 3.3 rods into 4.1 engines has a 1.163" deck. That allows you to run 400 Chevy 5.555" rods on a these pistons if you use undersize bearings . Mega buck forged Iapels from Argentina have a 1.04" deck, and can run the strong Holden 308 5.622" conrods. Rod ratios on the 221 are pretty bad, but its not worth the expense going for longer rods and forged pistons unless you've got some very big dollars. A set of longer rods mentioned above only give you an extra 4% more power anyway, not worth the effort.
Pushrods are harder to find, but if measure the length with a straight edge, and note if the type is balled at one end, and cupped at the other, you can get custom replacements from Us supplier Manley or have them made up from 3/8" thickwalled tube. Adjustables don't work unless they are mig welded to lock the lock-bolts, so make sure you get what you pay for. There are two types of valve gear, early adjustable, and latter non adjustable, and the 221 uses only one type of pushrod, rocker shaft and hydraulic lifter. If you start mucking around with non oil through pushrods, different lifters, roller rockers, or solid lifter cams, the pushrods will vary drastically. Each cahnge can result in 150 thou (3.8 mm) changes in pusrod length.
Stock conrods are not plentiful either. They are 5.14, (not 5.41 as claimed elseware in the tech pages), and you can't put on other rods from 200's or 250's in them.
From memory, the valves have smaller guide diameter than later 200/250 250 XA, so your better off getting Yella Terra or Holden 308 or SI valves from ClassicInlines, and redo the guides to the US 200 I6 sizes.
The much stronger XA onawrds and x-flow timing gear and wider link chain can fit , but again, Fords later 1971 on wards 200 and 250 runs a longer chain, as the cam to crank spacing further apart. You have to source than chain to fit the 200 made from 1964 to 1967. It may or may not be the same length as the 221, I've not measured.
The oil pump is not the same as the cross flow or US sixes, but you can upgrade to the x-flow high volume unit only if you make a custom Hi Energy sump. The 221 sump looks like its the same as the XR 1966-1967 200, but I'm not certain.
The flywheel or flexplate is 160 tooth like the later 1971 onwards 200/250 non cross flows and cross flows. It fits any later transmission BUT it has six bolts pitched at 2.75". After 1971, all Aussie Ford sixes used a special 3" pitch, so an XA-XG flexplate or flywheel won't fit. It's the same as the 1966 to 1967 XR Falcon one, though.
The rope seal is the same as the early 1966-1967 Aussie 200 XR
The 221 cam bearings are not the same as the later US Ford six, but similar to the later Aussie ones. Its very important that the blank oil feed holes are cleaned. , and that the right type of rear cam bearing is used, or you'll get no oil flow to the head. Like the Holden guys, I'd suggest you use stock bearings fastidiusly cleaned unless you have to change them due to condition. New ones take time to run in.
Any of the early log heads from 1961 to 1971 are anaemic compared to the XA on wards heads, and the 2V makes a great addition to the 221. The earlyer heads are better if you are doing a Triple carb conversion via the Lynx Triple SU adaptor, or the Offenhauser Triple carb adaptor.
These little differences make it important to make sure your Counter Wally isn't reading from a US Speed and Spares Hym book, as you'll end up with the wrong gear!
Parts dealers get mixed up with the 221 Windsor V8 and the five different versions of the 200
(the Aussie 200 non cross flow,
the early US non cross flow,
the later US non cross flows,
the Aussie X-flow iron 3.3's
and Aussie X-flow alloy head 3.3's)
and the four versions of the 250
(the US 69-80 250 non cross flow,
the early Aussie 71-76 250 non cross flow,
the later Aussie 76-80 iron non cross flow 4.1's,
and Aussie X-flow alloy head 4.1's)
The rundown:-
221 pistons are just the same as the early 1966 to 1976 200 Cube non crossflow pistons. 6.5 cc dish, 50 mm in diameter. (XR, XA, XB).
ACL still make a replacement 200/221 non cross flow piston. You used to be able to get US made Sealed Power Forged pistons in 6.5 or 13 cc dishes back in the 1980's, but unless you find them on Ebay, you have to get custom ones from Ross, Iapel or New Old Stock from TRW. ACL make better cast pistons than anyone. Deck height for the pistons are the same as any 1961 to 1993 ohv Ford I6, 1.53". The later X-flow ones have anything from 15 to 28 ccs of dish, and that might be great for a turbo, but its not much good for a high comression 221. The later ACL Race pistons for 3.3 rods into 4.1 engines has a 1.163" deck. That allows you to run 400 Chevy 5.555" rods on a these pistons if you use undersize bearings . Mega buck forged Iapels from Argentina have a 1.04" deck, and can run the strong Holden 308 5.622" conrods. Rod ratios on the 221 are pretty bad, but its not worth the expense going for longer rods and forged pistons unless you've got some very big dollars. A set of longer rods mentioned above only give you an extra 4% more power anyway, not worth the effort.
Pushrods are harder to find, but if measure the length with a straight edge, and note if the type is balled at one end, and cupped at the other, you can get custom replacements from Us supplier Manley or have them made up from 3/8" thickwalled tube. Adjustables don't work unless they are mig welded to lock the lock-bolts, so make sure you get what you pay for. There are two types of valve gear, early adjustable, and latter non adjustable, and the 221 uses only one type of pushrod, rocker shaft and hydraulic lifter. If you start mucking around with non oil through pushrods, different lifters, roller rockers, or solid lifter cams, the pushrods will vary drastically. Each cahnge can result in 150 thou (3.8 mm) changes in pusrod length.
Stock conrods are not plentiful either. They are 5.14, (not 5.41 as claimed elseware in the tech pages), and you can't put on other rods from 200's or 250's in them.
From memory, the valves have smaller guide diameter than later 200/250 250 XA, so your better off getting Yella Terra or Holden 308 or SI valves from ClassicInlines, and redo the guides to the US 200 I6 sizes.
The much stronger XA onawrds and x-flow timing gear and wider link chain can fit , but again, Fords later 1971 on wards 200 and 250 runs a longer chain, as the cam to crank spacing further apart. You have to source than chain to fit the 200 made from 1964 to 1967. It may or may not be the same length as the 221, I've not measured.
The oil pump is not the same as the cross flow or US sixes, but you can upgrade to the x-flow high volume unit only if you make a custom Hi Energy sump. The 221 sump looks like its the same as the XR 1966-1967 200, but I'm not certain.
The flywheel or flexplate is 160 tooth like the later 1971 onwards 200/250 non cross flows and cross flows. It fits any later transmission BUT it has six bolts pitched at 2.75". After 1971, all Aussie Ford sixes used a special 3" pitch, so an XA-XG flexplate or flywheel won't fit. It's the same as the 1966 to 1967 XR Falcon one, though.
The rope seal is the same as the early 1966-1967 Aussie 200 XR
The 221 cam bearings are not the same as the later US Ford six, but similar to the later Aussie ones. Its very important that the blank oil feed holes are cleaned. , and that the right type of rear cam bearing is used, or you'll get no oil flow to the head. Like the Holden guys, I'd suggest you use stock bearings fastidiusly cleaned unless you have to change them due to condition. New ones take time to run in.
Any of the early log heads from 1961 to 1971 are anaemic compared to the XA on wards heads, and the 2V makes a great addition to the 221. The earlyer heads are better if you are doing a Triple carb conversion via the Lynx Triple SU adaptor, or the Offenhauser Triple carb adaptor.
A
Anonymous
Guest
what im planning on doing is a turbo charged 221 2v. I was wondering what engine work needs to be done.
Not a whole lot. Minimum overbore with torque plate, ARP rod bolts and hone-fitted hypers. Polish and peen the rods, static and dynamic balance everything.
Depending on RPM, maybe look at larger oil clearances. Really though, unless crazy pressure is planned the bottom end is fairly durable. I'd even try to use the original oil pump after checking gear clearances and resurfacing inside the cover.
Depending on RPM, maybe look at larger oil clearances. Really though, unless crazy pressure is planned the bottom end is fairly durable. I'd even try to use the original oil pump after checking gear clearances and resurfacing inside the cover.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I found a set of the 200rods that I plan to use in my 250. I saw you say something about polishing and peening. I understand the shot peen bit but what parts of the rod do you polish, are you removing the casting ridge or dags, taking them back to a shiny type finish or just buffing them on a wire wheel?
Again its one of those things where the engine reco shop guys have given 5 answers!
Again its one of those things where the engine reco shop guys have given 5 answers!
addo":1xshbjxr said:
They're not at all necessary. Get rid of them. The lighter the rod the better. Just leave enough on them to be balanced as a matching set. Someone on here a few months ago said to supply your engine builder with 24 conrods (what the?), which I still can't understand. I've never had a problem balancing 6 rods even from mismatched sets and mixed in with resized ones as well.
Similar threads
