All Small Six 223 Engine opinions

This relates to all small sixes
Yeah you are in a very tough spot having so much rust and crude inside the blocks cooling jackets you could maybe use some Vinegar in the block and let it set for awhile to see if that will clean it out. On the heater core and radiator try reverse flushing them to see if you can get them unplugged. Best of luck
 
teggy87 said:
Guys this thing is turning into a headache. So I removed the thermostat and used a water hose and rinsed loads of rust out of the engine cooling passages around the pistons. I mean more than can possibly be good. I put a magnet at where the thermostat was to catch the rust as I tried to flush it out. I flushed it back to front until I wasn't getting large particles anymore. This im sure is the reason it was over heating, which means my heater core and radiator are probably stuffed up. I'll probably install a magnet in that hose to catch anything else. I also ordered NOS head bolts for the second time, hopefully they arrive this time.

I intend to use copper coat on this gasket and loctite 592 on the through bolts (head bolts) I am probably going to use the holley carb on it until I decide whether or not it will run right (not over heat) and it I can pull that off, I'll probably put the Holley sniper on it. But it's a little pricey considering idk if the motor is gonna sort out yet.
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Sounds like what i was dealing with. Mine was so rusty the water pump was seized, the truck ran before my grandfather parked it in the garage where it sat with no coolant for several years. If you haven’t already I would pull the water pump and check it. At this point I would send it out to be hot tanked they usually use a caustic solution that strips the paint and most rust. You can try a rust solution or rust converter but I don’t have any experience with it I’ve always had good luck with the machine shop cleaning it. If you are going to do it yourself maybe use a solution let it sit for a few days then flush it, may have to take the freeze plugs out. Good luck on which ever route you choose!
 
I use phosphoric acid to clean out gas tanks and remove rust from metal. It is not as aggressive as muriatic acid and won’t burn you if you get it on your hands. No nasty fumes either. The metal does not not need to be neutralized after soaking like other acids....leaves a protective coating without flash rusting. Brand name Evaporust is phosphoric acid as is CLR.....usually green in color.
 
So I think I've decided to flush the block with probably several different rust removers before I finally fill it with coolant, I've used evaporust in a motorcycle gas tank once and it worked so well it actually started leaking after it ate through the tank entirely because the rust was so bad. I got a lot of the rust out. Still have to clean the radiator though.
I have gotten the engine back together, new coil and plug wires and I'm not getting any spark. I probably need new plugs and cap. However the squirrels ate a lot of wiring so we'll see. It does turn over now, just no fire yet.
Anyone know where I can get some original wheels and hubcaps for this thing?
I think the carb is an original holley 1904? It has a brass float
 

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Glad to hear you are making some progress on your 223. Yes that Holley Carb looks like a 1904 or 1908 their both in the same Carb family. Did you check out that your Distributors Points are clean and will pass current thru to the Coil if they are an old set then you will need to at least clean them some with a point file or sand paper so they can work. Good luck
 
Ok so I have cleaned the points and the plugs and I thought I was getting 12v to the coil but it seems I'm only getting 6v. I lose 6v after this resistor? And it's very hot. Does this resistor need to be here? I'm confused because the schematics for a 55 are for 6v, but it's been 12v as long as we've had it.
 
My 262 have these tubes also. they come up and can be seen with the passenger side pushrod cover plate off and bend in a u shape under the valve cover delivering oil the the rocker shaft. I can all but guarantee this was factory on my truck as dad bought it from the original owner with 28xxx miles on it in 1976 and he never had this work done. When i removed the valve cover this last year to look around and clean things up , one was loose. I was able to "clip" it back into place but for the life of me I don't remember how. I just did. When I get the motor back from the machinist I could look and take some pics. But I cant tell you when that will be. My truck is a 1964 f250 for reference.
 
Also consider the Duraspark distributor swap. It made a big difference on my truck last year. When I get my motor finished, I plan to send it to be properly recurved by one of the very helpful members here. I never regretted the cost.
 
You can't go by a 1955 Wiring Diagram since your truck has been converted to a 12 Volt system. You will need to use a wiring diagram and the parts of the 1956 or newer system. You will do need to run it with the voltage resistor to protect the Point set from burning up the same as used on the 1956 up Ford electrical systems, plus yes it will only be 6 or 7 volts to the coil when the Key is in the ON position or the RUN position. You will have more like 12 Volts when the Key is held in the Starting Position to crank the engine over. Are all the electrical wire connectors and mountings clean and snug? Good luck
 
Noticed that the coil I ordered

ACDelco Ignition Coil - U505​

Says it doesn't need an external resistor?
Says it fits a 1956, but my old man says it may burn up the points, thoughts?
 
Yes your Dad is right! I sure wouldn't use that Coil, best to keep it simple. When you need to use a Resistor, then use a Coil that is made for use with an External Resistor, something like this (see below Link). If you were changing over to a Pertronix Electronic Triger in place of the old Set of Points than that's a different story. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...138262/automotive-truck-1956-ford-f-100?pos=0
 
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Update!!
Ok so I have the engine mostly back together, I need to go get some bolts for the water pump, maybe I should go do that now...
I'm having trouble getting spark. It has the 12V conversion with the resistor and original points ect. Points look ok and I cleaned them. Haven't installed the new OEM rotor button yet but it has new wires and a new OEM distributor cap.
My question is the Coil, it came with a rusty accel super stack, I think 12V coil. It has a resistor in line. I bought a AC Delco U505 that I think has a built in resistor so I could bypass the external resistor. My old man says I'll burn the coil up that way. He suggested I use a Duralast C819.
Any input here would be appreciated thanks..
 
I checked the specifications for those coils and they both require an external resistor. Most points vehicles had an in-line resistor to protect the points during engine "run." The resistor was by-passed during "start." Is the resistor with your Accel coil okay? If so, you can use that. If not, you could certainly get by with an older Mopar 2 pole resistor in the ignition wire. Your truck should have one somewhere on the firewall, I've seen them above the master cylinder but I'm not sure on a '55.

Lou Manglass
 
rlbarton said:
Also consider the Duraspark distributor swap. It made a big difference on my truck last year. When I get my motor finished, I plan to send it to be properly recurved by one of the very helpful members here. I never regretted the cost.
Click to expand...
re-curve is "the cherry on top" (last thing to do, after 'all set' on carb'n ign build/best tune achieved).
Long way ta go B4 that. U have more f/u (& choices) on the rest of the system.
Some here suggested the DSII system (or Duraspark still 12v but no points/condenser,
'hotter' spark, better dizzy, for Performance - ie MPGs and pep, less maintenance, long term costs).
Ford oem solution from mid/late '70s. Would look era correct for this (except to the most descerning eye). Esp w/a hidden gm 4 pin for the 'box'.
 
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teggy87 said:
Update!!
Ok so I have the engine mostly back together, I need to go get some bolts for the water pump, maybe I should go do that now...
I'm having trouble getting spark. It has the 12V conversion with the resistor and original points ect.
My question is the Coil,
Any input here would be appreciated thanks..
Click to expand...
Another straightforward solution since there is some confusion over resistors, etc is to run a dedicated wire from 12V thru a ballast resistor, then directly to any points-type 12V coil. Ran an old car this way until a recent upgrade and it works well. Your Accel coil may also work with the ballast resistor listed below.

Examples:

 
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