223 Silent Lash Valvetrain

Bubba and Bill,
I actually reread the previous post and unless I am completely wrong I would be +.013 on lift.... please correct me if I am wrong.
(new cam with rebuild) regular lift cam: 0.273
(original to motor) silent lash lift cam: - 0.260
0.013 (gain on lift)
 
Well the engine should be back from the engine builder this week. I am going to ask him if there is any specific engine break in procedure I need to follow. I wanted to get your opinion on any procedures to follow after a engine rebuild on a 223?
 
So with your new camshaft and liters installed (or in some cases where the lifters were changed on a good used Camshaft) you would need to do a Cam Breakin. i.e. Wear in process of these two new sets of parts to each other. This consists of running engine without stopping at about 2000 to 2200 RPM for 20 to 30 minutes. Set up the Carb's Curb Idle Screw on the throttle linkage so it can maintain that Higher RPM. Also first try to get all of the tune up settings very close before you start it like Plug Gap, Point Gap, & the Base Timing setting, so that it runs good enough to compleate the break in. Check the engine and its cooling system during the breakin for any coolant leaks, and that the Thermostat is opening up I usally leave the Radator Cap loose or off so i can watch for this as well as seeing if there is good flow through the Radatorcs core tubes. Also check for oil leaks too and try to take care of any of these that could come up like if its only a loose hose clamp ect. If it's a more serious like a bad Rad. or Heater Hose problem or a really bad Oil Leak you then would need to shut it down and repair it as needed before finishing up the breakin procedure. This is why personally I would mostly just use plain water in the cooling system untill the breakin procedure is compleated and I know that all the parts are in good working condition, Distilled Water is really best to use. Also check the Oil Pressure and Engine Temp during the engine breakin procedure.

Now after finishing that go over all your tune up settings again to really fine tune it, and if the cooling system is in good working condistion add in your Coolant choice. ie Anti Freeze Water Wetter etc. Some people will change the oil and filter after the cam breakin and many will wait until they have about 500 or so miles of use. Cutting open the used oil filter to see if there is any debree inside it is also a good idea when you are doing that oil and filter change. Then add some fresh oil and a filter and your ready to enjoy it. Best of luck on your new 223 engine!
 
So I got the engine back last week and started in on painting it. I should have it installed this upcoming weekend and running the following weekend (Fingers Crossed). I'll post pictures when I can. I found that is now a 40 over bore. The engine builder was having trouble finding the 30 over pistons.
 
By the way.... I think I found the reason the engine was chattering like a typewriter. The engine builder gave me back all the original parts. When I took a look at the cam I was horrified. The lobes were flattened and worn in an uneven way. No wonder my compression was so bad. I am still in awe that I was able to drive it around for 4 years (13,000 miles) like that.
 
Yes it is interesting to see and examine the old parts. Those engines are so simple and can run even if the parts aren't in the best condition yet now you should have a first rate engine that will run for years the difference in it's performance it going to be significantly better too. Best of luck
 
So the motor is running, and the cam and lifters are broken in. I do have an issue however. I cannot get the motor to idle below 1,000 RPM. Without the vacuum line attached to the distributor, I am at 5 degrees advanced. The biggest issue is that the mixture control screw seems to do nothing on the Holley 1904. I can have it all the way closed and the motor will still run. Any ideas guys?
 
Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak or severial. Check out the Throdle Shaft on the Holley for wear on the lever side. Are you still using a stock Load O Matic distributor?
 
If I find it is a vacuum leak from the carb, would you recommend me replacing the Holley 1904 with a different carb... like an Autolite 1100?
 
The Autolite that the 223 used on some years was a 1101 it's a bigger carb (more CFM) so there is also some potential for a little more power, so yes if you can get ahold of one of them it would help. You can also rebuild the carb body if there is a vacuum leak with the installing of a new replacement bushing there are kits for some carb's and or an oversize bushing can be made too. Check out your vacuum canister on the distributor to see if it will hold a vacuum if it won't then it needs to be replaced. Good luck
 
Bubba thank you. Here is what I have done so far:
1. Checked timing (it is dead on)
2. Checked and retorqued the intake/exhaust manifold (no Leaks)
3. Plugged intake vacuum hole for the windshield wipers.
4. Unplugged vacuum to the distributor
5. No leak at throttle shaft on carb.

Engine fired up, but I cannot run it below 1,000 RPM without the choke being on. I am planning on disassembling the carb tonight. I am wondering if something got in it or gummed up since it sat for almost 6 months.
 
Before you tear down the carb, try using a spray can of carb cleaner to spray anywhere that you think there could be a vacuume leak while it is running. If it speeds up or dies, then you have found a leak.
 
Thanks for the idea. The one thing I did not check was making sure I do not have the nuts to tight holding the carb on the intake.
 
Engine fired up, but I cannot run it below 1,000 RPM without the choke being on.
Click to expand...
Your description sounds like the idle passage may be blocked. Try adjusting the screw in or out and see if it makes a difference. Before you remove the carburetor, you might remove the idle screw, squirt in some carb cleaner, then blow out with an air hose. If you're not sure of the adjustment, count the turns until the screw bottoms out. For initial setting turn the screw until it bottoms out then back out the same number of turns you've already recorded.

Lou Manglass
 
Thanks for the advice. I actually tried that after doing some more research, and it had no affect. I am just going to rebuild it, and then go from there. In the meantime I ordered a new carb so I can at least get her out for a test drive in the next week. I am chomping at the bit because she sounds so good now when you mash the gas a little. No more "typewriter" chatter on the top end and a little more throaty on the exhaust with the .40 over.
 
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