You need a manual it will help out alot.
Pulling a rear main seal is not hard to do but it is a real pain. It can be done with the motor in the car but it's a heck of alot easier to do it with the motor out.
Just to give you an idea of what you'll need to do=
With the motor in the car you'll have to drop the oil pan and pull the oil pump, remove the rearmain bearing cap, then back off all the other mainbearing bolts to get the crank to drop down a bit, but don't back them out more than 1/32".
Then you'll have to take a brass drift and push the seal around untill you can get a bite on it with a pair of pliers and pull it out while pushing it with a brass rod. ( I use a brazing rod about 1/8" in dia.)You have to very careful not to scratch anything while doing this.
Then clean the seal grooves, soak your new seals in oil, and install one of the seal halves in the block with the lip facing forward to the front of the motor, be sure to leave 3/8" of the seal poking out.
Do the same with the bearing cap but leave the seal poking out on the other side then line it all up and install the cap, apply a bit of rtv to the rear corners of the block and sides of the cap then tighten all the main caps to the proper torque.
Doing all of this while laying on your back is a pain, this is what I like to do=
Since the rearmain is already bad and this motor is so easy to work on, I'd pull the motor put it one an engine stand if you have one or try to figure out some way to turn it upside down without breaking something.
Then I'd pull the front timing cover,timing chain,oilpan, and oilpump.
Then I'd pull remove the rod and mainbearing caps (be sure not to mix them up this is very important) slide a small piece of rubber hose over all the rod bolts and slowly work the crank out of the block.
By doing it this way you can check all the bearings in the lower half of your motor and change the front and rear seals at the same time. The only problem you'll have is when you go to put it all back together you have to be sure that you time the crank with the cam so you don't bend valves while reinstalling the crank.
You can get around this by removing your rocker arm shaft and pushrods, if you do this it might not be a bad idea to go ahead and change valve seals.
By now it seams like a lot of work but with the exception of the head gasket you'll have replaced every other gasket in your engine.
Or you can just pull the motor flip it and do the same as you would with it in the car.
Hope this helps and that it isn't to hard to understand my typing
feel free to ask any more
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