All Small Six 250 l6 carb

This relates to all small sixes
Hi, new to site. Am having a hard time finding info on a 1960 ranchero which I believe has had the engine replaced with a 1972 250 l6 integrated head one barrel. The carb on it now has a custom made base plate and will not match up to the linkage. Have been looking far and wide for a carb. The bolt pattern on intake is like nothing I have ever seen before. Normally bolt pattern would be 2 bolts parallel to head, this is about 30 degrees twisted counterclockwise to head, if that makes sense. How do I research this further. Trying to post pic.
 
Welcome to the forum Rhinoman!

I'm not completely clear what you have but it sounds kind of normal. The stock integrated log intake bolt holes for the carb are offset on the manifold. Those holes are actually used to attach a spacer that goes between the manifold and the carb, and the carb fasteners coming from the spacer are clocked roughly perpendicular to the front-back line of the manifold. The spacer has a large port that goes to the PCV. I'm attaching a couple of photos I took when I was disassembling the 250 I put in my Mustang - hopefully they'll help.

I'm running a Carter RBS carb on mine. It hooks up nicely to the stock throttle rod coming from the gas pedal - all mechanical, no cable. Rock Auto sells remanufactured units (I have one of them).


Intake.jpg
carb.jpg
 

Welcome to the forum Rhinoman!

I'm not completely clear what you have but it sounds kind of normal. The stock integrated log intake bolt holes for the carb are offset on the manifold. Those holes are actually used to attach a spacer that goes between the manifold and the carb, and the carb fasteners coming from the spacer are clocked roughly perpendicular to the front-back line of the manifold. The spacer has a large port that goes to the PCV. I'm attaching a couple of photos I took when I was disassembling the 250 I put in my Mustang - hopefully they'll help.

I'm running a Carter RBS carb on mine. It hooks up nicely to the stock throttle rod coming from the gas pedal - all mechanical, no cable. Rock Auto sells remanufactured units (I have one of them).


View attachment 21932
View attachment 21933
Thanks. I see the spacer and have located one. Now it looks like I need the throttle assembly that’s on the manifold to hook up the linkage From the pedal to the carb. Any ideas where I can find that
 
Howdy! So, your original engine, which had a 1.5" carb opening on the head and a carb to fit it, has been replaced with one that has a 1.75" opening intended for a different carb. Perhaps the custom spacer was intended to adapt the old carb onto the new head, but who knows? I'm not sure, but I think an early Falcon would have a throttle linkage more like an early Mustang than like the later one pictured above. Hard to say with no pictures. Pics of the existing linkage, carb, and carburetor area in general would help a lot. Also, what kind of distributor is on the engine? Probably not the original LOM, so a SCV carb like the original one would be a poor choice. But there's probably a carb that will work.
 
Also, are you sure it's a 250? It can be done, but it's a tight fit in an early Falcon. Maybe your engine is a 200, which drops right in. Did you count the water pump bolts?
 
Thanks. I see the spacer and have located one. Now it looks like I need the throttle assembly that’s on the manifold to hook up the linkage From the pedal to the carb. Any ideas where I can find that
Being completely unfamiliar with the Falcon, I don't know what your linkage looks like. If you have the "bent bar" link that comes into the engine compartment from the passenger compartment gas pedal, you don't need all that stuff on the manifold. I made a link with a couple of socket ends, which are made for threaded rod. I bought two of those units (one for the carb linkage, the other for the link coming from the foot feed) and connected them with a short piece of 10-32 threaded rod. The replacements also allow you to easily connect and disconnect the end from the ball without having to worry about damaging anything - just slide the outer sleeve down and it frees the ball.

Linkage.jpg
 
WELCOME to another early car enthusiast ! .
250 in an early roundbody' 1960 takes some modifications. Are you sure it's a 250 and not a 200?. the 250 will have the starter below the engine block and have 4 bolts on the water pump , 200 will have 3.
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early original linkage may be found with forum members or sometimes show up on EBay.
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standard or automatic?, C4 typical automatic on a 250 uses a 'kickdown' rod (or cable) added to linkage.
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Thank you all for the info and input. I see where I need some parts. The spacer I’v located. The pics were very helpful. I see where I’m missing some linkage as well. So next step is locating those pieces. There is a sticker on the valve cover that says it’s a 1973 250. I’ll research more to see if it’s a real 250. Really appreciate the info. Thanks
 
I’ll research more to see if it’s a real 250. Really appreciate the info. Thanks
As mentioned above, the easiest way to tell is the water pump. 4 bolts, it's a 250. 3 bolts, it's a 200.

Should have asked before - are you running an automatic transmission or a manual?
 
“...valve cover...”
valve cover can B swapped in coupla min. This is a 60 y/o car.
Who knows how many owners, what they did to ‘em, what’s swapped.
PLEZ, become familiar w/the 6 TriftPower motors. We use ‘the Handbook'
or above Tech Archive (at blue horizontal line acc top of this page) for the 3, 4 points of ID.
W/a new=to=me car I always try’n ID the components (which rear end, motor/block, intake, etc.
 
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Find the casting numbers on the block and head as this can be very helpful. You can see where these numbers are located in the photograph kindly supplied by Mr. Ha in post # 2. They will probably start with a C or a D but could be an E from later production years. Definitely get a count on your water pump bolts as stated.
Then this below is like the secret decoder ring to identify the production years of your head and block.

1724362325144.png
 
I would ask, can you describe your throttle assembly?

For instance, the throttle John posted in #6 should be a one-piece unit that goes from the pedal, through the firewall, bends over to a pivot plate on the firewall, then bends again to travel over to just under the carb. this one just needs the linkage to attach to the carb.

Another type of linkage is a cable linkage John posted in #2. His linkage was butchered, but the way it works is a throttle cable sheath is connected to the firewall and routes to a mount on the linkage he shows, but his was sawn off. But the cable sheath connects to the bracket on the left, and then the cable come out of it and attaches to the upper fulcrum arm that points diagonally up and right toward the carb. when the throttle is pressed the rotating assembly rotates counter clockwise and the carb linkage rises. I think that's technically called a bell crank.

There is another linkage like in my 67 mustang where the bell crank pivot is on the carb adapter. Your desired carb adapter will be a combo of your carb, your throttle, and your head.
 
“...a sticker on the valve cover..."
tells me it has a sticker on the VC. Does not ID. May B it
IDs the VC? May B not even?
o0OP, startin to repeat myself.

Remote diagnosis is difficult. Even more so w/o pic (impossible? no).
We could cite 3 or 4 ‘exploded diagrams'
but Y not give us a pic of what ya got (quickest way)?
 
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