'64 170. need carb advice.

I have a '64 170ci in a same year falcon (lets hear it for the 4 doors!). it was stumbling off idle and going into gear when hot so i decided to throw a rebuild kit at the carb and try to correct some issues.

As i pulled the carb apart i found nearly every gasket surface totally warped and the slots in the screw heads are pretty hammed up. looks like someone has abused this carb pretty bad. i was able to true up the gasket surfaces and identify places where gaskets were missing and got it all back together (and all the RTV goo cleaned out of it).

Problem is now it won't run right. i can get it to stay running if i crank the idle up to around 1k but by that point i think i'm off the idle circuit because the idle mix screw does nothing. it also runs VERY rough. i've followed the instructions and adjusted everything as said in the kit but no dice. also i find if i hit the side of the carb near the idle mix screw with some start fluid, the rpm's go up and the roughness goes away. it also runs reasonably well when cold.

I suspect that the bushings where levers and such are entering and leaving the carb and up by the butterflies are leaking badly and there doesn't seem to be much i can do to fix that. it's frustrating because when i put it back together it ran PERFECTLY for about 20 mins and then it just dies.

if this is some stupid newbie trick that someone can help me correct i would love to just get the car running. beyond that the wife has approved $700 to fix the issue. i was thinking of putting a DUI ignition on and replacing the carb with something appropriate if this simply cannot be fixed. What would be recommended to work with that distributor? can i just get another autolite 1100 and plug the SCV and vac port? is there a better carb for this application that fits into that budget? will this ignition work without swapping the generator out for an alternator?

What are your thoughts? hoping to hear some sane advice from some people who know better than me (which is probably everyone here but me lol). what would you guys do here?
 
You will need to rebuild the carb base or have it done. The shaft can be worn, the base or both. There are bushings that can installed (by drilling out the base) in IMOP this is the best way or add some type of seals to shaft, is probably why they tried the STV which would be a poor fix. If you plan to go with the DUI or DSII you would be better off going with later style carb 1101 or a Carter.
 
Howdy Rizzly:

And welcome to a really good forum here. The Best! It sounds like your carb is pretty well hashed. Unless you really love it finding a stock OEM replacement is not that difficult. Save your original for a reference basis and parts. You could upgrade the stock '64 LoM distributor and upgrade it with a Petronix Ignitor unit. You can then retain all the stock connections.

If you want to proceed with an upgrade to a DS II or a DUI you can upgrade to a 1100 built for a 1968 or 1969 Falcon with a 200 engine. It will have a ported vacuum source for the later distributors and it will not have a SCV. The advantage of this is that it will use all stock hook-ups; fuel line, linkage, vacuum line and air cleaner. The larger distributor cap will be the only non-stock appearing item. Stock economy will be retained but a stronger, better spark and curve would make for a better starting and running engine.

I don't recall your locale, but if you have a good recycler in your neighborhood, look for a complete ignition system off of a '77 to '82 Fairmont. Get the distributor, coil and module and the connecting wires and connectors. Also get the spark plug wires. My best source for the upgrade carb (If I can't find it in the bone yard) is NAPA.

FYI-the '68 & '69 200 carbs were down sized to the 170 size when the new DS II ignition system became standard. The newer Autolite 1100s may be jetted leaner than your 170 carb. Check it out.

The generator shouldn't matter. Someday you'll probably want to upgrade that too.

Hope that helps. Good luck. Enjoy.

Adios, David
 
thanks for the advice guys. i'm considering taking it to the local carb shop to get fixed up and then as money allows, gathering up a stronger distributor and new carb. If the guys at the carb shop say it's too beat to be worth it, i'll go ahead and get the new 1100 with ported vac and DUI.


after all the reading i've done i WANT to port the head out, bigger valves, new cam, do a 2v conversion on the intake manifold, move to a 2100, a DUI ignition and dual flowmasters.. at some point i have to be realistic about the budget though. in reality i just need it to start getting me to/from work again.

also, i'm in denver colorado.. about 6000ft up from sea level.
 
rizzly":3cmptett said:
Problem is now it won't run right. i can get it to stay running if i crank the idle up to around 1k but by that point i think i'm off the idle circuit because the idle mix screw does nothing. it also runs VERY rough. i've followed the instructions and adjusted everything as said in the kit but no dice. also i find if i hit the side of the carb near the idle mix screw with some start fluid, the rpm's go up and the roughness goes away. it also runs reasonably well when cold.

Sounds like she is running lean with starter fluid or cold choke setting temporarily richening mix and smoothing it out.
First guess would be float level a little to low, but there are other possible sources for the problem (fuel delivery is one).
With the warping and rtv fixes it sounds like its been subjected to over torquing among other possible abuse, and may be well worth finding a replacement core or rebuilt...I would just stay clear of the parts house rebuilds <<<my $.02
Good luck :thumbup:
 
Got the carb properly rebuilt by a local shop. VERY nice work. replaced all the bushings and everything. throttle arm no longer wobbly.

Also... i noticed when i replaced the hose clamp on the heater collar that sits under the carb.. i put the hose clamp in upside down and it interfered with the lower butterfly/accel/dashpot arms. it would not allow the throttle to return back to fully closed.

unfortunately it takes quite a drive this time of year to get that engine up to operating temp. i figure when i get home from work tomorrow it'll be warmed up for a proper idle mix adjust and idle rpm set.


P.S. manual choke is a godsend when your still trying to tweak the fuel mix/idle rpm out.
 
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