67 200 T5 MultiPort Fuel injection Suggestions?

[ManikMaster]

Hey all I am looking to build up my 67 200...
Currently i have A T5, electronic conversion kit with standard distrib, 289 radiator, grenada brakes, stock rear, stock everything else...

I want to get more top end and mid range power/speed. I am running an Autolite 1100 and think that I might want to go to multi port fuel injection vs bigger or more carbs...
Pro's Con's?
I was thinking maybe get another intake to try this out on rather than killing mine...

Also, I want to build my matching numbers block and head for more power/flow. I am currently thinking Port and Polish head, Roller rockers, stiffer springs, new distrib, new oil pump, new fuel pump, header, new bearings, cam, blueprint&balance block, high compression rings and 3 angle valve seating...Basic TRIPOWER...
I know there are others out here who have done similar builds and would like any and all input as well as pros and cons on these subjects...other suggestions, brands, prices and ideas are also appreciated!!!

Finally, I would like to be open to the possibility of turbo in the future andw as wondering if the stock pistons would be applicable or if I should spring for new ones...

Ps i have good technical skill and mechanical ability, and if anyone wants to see pics just let me know!!

Thanks ford six gods!!!
Manik

 

[fordconvert]

There are several posts that have now been moved into the Fuel Injection/ Megasquirt section. You are concerned with numbers matching and going to do extensive modifications? Or are you just staying you are dealing with a stock original motor? Are you in the USA or elsewhere?

 

[ManikMaster]

I am letting everyone know i am dealing with a stock head and block, I would like to maintain that origionality as well if possible however. I am located in the US Northern california to be specific

 

[Eric Rose]

If you're going to do multiport fuel injection, you will probably have to do a lot of modifications to the stock head.

And if you want to do a turbo it might not last long with your stock bottom end, especially if its well worn.

What might be best for you to do if originality is a concern is to pull the stock engine and jut put it on an engine stand. Then start with a different block and head so that you can modify everything and still have the original engine un-modified for posterity.

If you are set on using an original style log head you definitely want to either get one with the hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. And with your goals of power/turbo you probably want the bigger valves and the bigger log too. If you go with a '75 or later log head you'll get the hardened seats, larger valves, and a bigger log.

Theres always the Classic Inlines Aluminum head... which is definitely capable of EFI, forced induction, etc.

 

[ManikMaster]

If you're going to do multiport fuel injection, you will probably have to do a lot of modifications to the stock head.

And if you want to do a turbo it might not last long with your stock bottom end, especially if its well worn.

What might be best for you to do if originality is a concern is to pull the stock engine and jut put it on an engine stand. Then start with a different block and head so that you can modify everything and still have the original engine un-modified for posterity.

If you are set on using an original style log head you definitely want to either get one with the hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. And with your goals of power/turbo you probably want the bigger valves and the bigger log too. If you go with a '75 or later log head you'll get the hardened seats, larger valves, and a bigger log.

Theres always the Classic Inlines Aluminum head... which is definitely capable of EFI, forced induction, etc.

So without going alum. What would you suggest to build my stock block to handle turbo app...???thanks

 

[addo]

Assuming you're going with mild turbocharging for cost reasons, hypereutectic pistons will be perfect. Also, a torque plate hone is pretty advisable. Don't overdo the oil pump pressure, and fit a hardened drive gear.

Everything else is really related to addressing control of fuel/ignition.

Consider the reverse approach. Most people buy a turbo and then discover all the financial grief to make it fit and run well. Why not work on getting the motor fully set up to electronically drive ignition, then fuel injection, then a turbo?

First thing I'd be looking at, is how to fit a skip tooth wheel to the damper. It looks like you will probably need a new sheave made up, and bonded onto the original hub.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

you could also have it bolt to the puller holes (ALA ps pulley drive)

there isn't alot of room to work wwith between the motor and crank pulley. might be able to have a 2 groove pulley notched by a machinist and only run one belt on it (might be able to run two with proper deburring but I think it will still eat the one belt up)

 

[addo]

I've had a look at the pulleys for both 200 and 250 - they're similarly impeded with lack of space.

The further you move a toothed wheel from the block, the more risk of the CAS bracket jiggling about... Whereas, if you push the pulleys forward about 3/16" to make room for a wheel it should be possible to shim out the accessories or slot their mount holes.

 

[ManikMaster]

Assuming you're going with mild turbocharging for cost reasons, hypereutectic pistons will be perfect. Also, a torque plate hone is pretty advisable. Don't overdo the oil pump pressure, and fit a hardened drive gear.

Everything else is really related to addressing control of fuel/ignition.

Consider the reverse approach. Most people buy a turbo and then discover all the financial grief to make it fit and run well. Why not work on getting the motor fully set up to electronically drive ignition, then fuel injection, then a turbo?

First thing I'd be looking at, is how to fit a skip tooth wheel to the damper. It looks like you will probably need a new sheave made up, and bonded onto the original hub.

This is exactly what I am looking to do...My father works for ford and has access to dealer prices on performance parts especially ford. From what i see the mallory pistons are the way to go, but how about cranks cam lifter rods rollers springs and valves...assuming a 1.75/1.5 bore on the head... I may not even turbo this vehicle but i would love to build the motor to be bulletproof and have better breathing capabilities...
First thing I'd be looking at, is how to fit a skip tooth wheel to the damper. It looks like you will probably need a new sheave made up, and bonded onto the original hub
What are you even talking about? I have no idea this is gibberish to me lol Is it something to do with steering and suspension?

 

[addo]

It's a steel disc 3/16 to 1/4" thick with (typically) 35 teeth, and one gap where the 36th tooth should be. Look here.

The wheel passes a crank angle sensor (or "pickup") as the crank rotates. This forms a nice even electrical pulse in the sensor except when the missing tooth goes past. What happens, is the computer uses that like a tach signal; it knows exactly where everything is at that particular point on every rotation.

This signal is one of the basic building blocks in fuel injection. The computer will fire injectors or spark plugs based on how far before or after the missing tooth is appropriate.

 

[ManikMaster]

It's a steel disc 3/16 to 1/4" thick with (typically) 35 teeth, and one gap where the 36th tooth should be. Look here.

The wheel passes a crank angle sensor (or "pickup") as the crank rotates. This forms a nice even electrical pulse in the sensor except when the missing tooth goes past. What happens, is the computer uses that like a tach signal; it knows exactly where everything is at that particular point on every rotation.

This signal is one of the basic building blocks in fuel injection. The computer will fire injectors or spark plugs based on how far before or after the missing tooth is appropriate.

Thanks so much for clarifying that makes so much sense lol i do appreciate it lol!!!

Any suggestions on brand as far as engine parts are concerned?

 

[addo]

Not really. The best bearings I've ever seen were Japanese - brand called NDC. And I like ACL/Mahle hypereutectic pistons but they will be very dear to American tastes - about $450-$500 for the set with rings.

I think you can get Silvolite hypereutectics much cheaper.

You'll need one of these for the exhaust too. Use graphite or copper grease on the threads when fitting its plug back in.

 

[Anlushac11]

DIY autotune sells a number of 35 tooth trigger wheels. Comes in 4" up to 8" diameter.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/361- ... ml?image=0

You have to find and mount your own sensor.

Ford used the sensor on 1995 and later Ranger P/U's with the 2.5L 4cyl