67 stang 200 rebuild

[beechgrove1+]

Recently purchased a 67 stang coupe with a 200 L6 engine and c4. Appeared to be the old ford re-man green long block. No carb or fuel pump when I got it, I disassembled engine with machine shop doing all the head work. Installed an overhaul kit from napa, 30 over rings, all bearings, new cam kit with lifters, new hei distributor. A re-man Autolite 110 one barrel. After startup has #1 and #2 cylinders dead. No amount of adjustment on carb or timing works. Plugs are black and sooted on all but 1 and 2. Plugs are firing outside engine. Compression 180 on all cylinders with no leak down. Tried new plugs, no availe. Looking for suggestions please.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Beechgrove:

And welcome. Sorry for your troubles. Diagnosing an engine on-line is difficult at best. Here are some ideas for starters. My first guess is that you have the distributor installed off by 180 degrees. Did you install the distributor? Is it really an HEI distributor? HEI is a GM product. HEI stand for High Energy Ignition. Please clarify.

Clearly, something is out-of-wack with the ignition. Check it out and share your findings with us.

Adios, David

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, maybe the problem is simple, like the firing order, so check that, and yes verify the distributor is installed correctly by bringing the balancer up to the timing mark and seeing where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap, but it could be 180 out, and pointing at #6.
If that won't help I think you have to pull the valve cover and make sure the valves open and close on all cylinders.
Good luck

 

[beechgrove1+]

Thanks for replies, yes I pulled the distributor and valve cover to get timing correct with mark on balancer. I used the term hei but it’s an aftermarket electronic ignition distributor with super coil. Starts right up. Rechecked firing order, replaced distributor with original load a matic, new points,condenser, cap rotar. Same issue, #1 and 2 dead. Engine idles but shaking. Pulled head back off thinking bad head gasket. Replaced head gasket, no change. Everything leads me back to the carb. Rebuilt Autolite 1100 with dual accel pumps carb from pony carbs/champion carbs, gave 600 bucks for it with no core to send in. Called their tech guy who was no help at all. Blacken plugs means too much fuel but they won’t help me a different carb. Choke works, heat coil type, flap open. It’s gotta be too much fuel into engine thus blackened 3 to 6 but why the dead cylinders ?

 

[64-5mustang]

Are the plugs on 1, 2 fwet with fuel or dry? I once had a similar problem with a 300. It had wore a exhaust cam lobe down so it wouldn't let air out on exhaust, then would push air and fuel back in to the intake causing the rest to be rich. I wish you luck

 

[bubba22349]

Thanks for replies, yes I pulled the distributor and valve cover to get timing correct with mark on balancer. I used the term hei but it’s an aftermarket electronic ignition distributor with super coil. Starts right up. Rechecked firing order, replaced distributor with original load a matic, new points,condenser, cap rotar. Same issue, #1 and 2 dead. Engine idles but shaking. Pulled head back off thinking bad head gasket. Replaced head gasket, no change. Everything leads me back to the carb. Rebuilt Autolite 1100 with dual accel pumps carb from pony carbs/champion carbs, gave 600 bucks for it with no core to send in. Called their tech guy who was no help at all. Blacken plugs means too much fuel but they won’t help me a different carb. Choke works, heat coil type, flap open. It’s gotta be too much fuel into engine thus blackened 3 to 6 but why the dead cylinders ?

Yes for sure the engine is going to run rough and be shaking with two dead cylinders! Sorry but there just isn't anyway that the carb can be the cause of two cylinders not be firing! Concentrate on the ignistion first as it's the likely cause. Pull plugs 1 & 2 and swap them into another coupe of holes like 5 & 6 then see if 1 & 2 start firing and 5 & 6 stop. If both 1 & 2 still don't fire then you should check the distribor cap and plug wires for 1 & 2 terminals with a volt ohm meter for their resistance then compare that with the other cap terminals and plug wires. Let's us know what you find. Good luck edited

 

[beechgrove1+]

I put my carb on another 200 engine I got for backup parts that had a knock and it is also dead on 1 and 2. Back to rebuilt one, Plugs are dry on 1 and 2. New cam and lifters. Even replaced push rods. When engine at idle I can pull off plug wires 1 and 2 with no change in engine speed. Every other plug wire pulled makes engine stumble but not 1 and 2. I still think it’s carb. Champion carbs will never get another dime from me.

 

[bubba22349]

I put my carb on another 200 engine I got for backup parts that had a knock and it is also dead on 1 and 2. Back to rebuilt one, Plugs are dry on 1 and 2. New cam and lifters. Even replaced push rods. When engine at idle I can pull off plug wires 1 and 2 with no change in engine speed. Every other plug wire pulled makes engine stumble but not 1 and 2. I still think it’s carb. Champion carbs will never get another dime from me.

Sorry but there is just No way period! The carb is sitting on a intake log that's connected to all Six of the engines cylinders so if it was the carb not supplying the fuel then none of the other cylinders would fire either. There are only a few items that can cause these simtoms too happen.

1. A couple bad spark plugs. You said you changed them with new what kind are you using, are they all gapped to .034 to .035?
2. A bad Distribitor cap. What kind?
3. A couple of bad plug wires. What kind are they?
4. Or that the Valves are not opening and closeing on 1 & 2. Since you said you have 180 compression across all the cylinders we can likely rule this out.

Good luck edited

 

[beechgrove1+]

Thank you to all replies. The distributor is a new small cap FORD INLINE 6 170-200-250 PRO SERIES Blue HEI Distributor from swapmeetparts store on eBay. But I went back to the stock load-a-matic with new cap and plug wires. Changed wires up and down the line. Took valve cover off with engine running so I could watch the valves move. Looks normal. Went to harbor freight and bought a flex scope to look down the log intake for anything. Clear. I actually put the backup engine in the car only hooking up essentials to crank it. It knocks on #6 cylinder but runs. Didn’t get a carb with either engine so put the new carb on it and exact same dead cylinders. Out of ideas and bout outa patience, see a v8 in the future.

 

[beechgrove1+]

For poster who asked about plugs gap, the new distributor paperwork stated gap should be 40 to 45 but bought new plugs when I went back to old distributor and gaped at 34. 2 new sets of plug wires, hei type for that distributor and regular plug wires on old distributor. Have 3 k invested in this engine. Thanks for input.

 

[pmuller9]

This may sound like a stretch but the engine sits at a rearward slant so it is possible that the carb is simply dumping raw fuel into the manifold where it runs to the back cylinders and bypassing the front two cylinders.
I would try another carburetor.

 

[DannyG]

Just curious, what happens if you switch the two spark plug wires from the two cylinders that are missing ( firing order again).
Also, what brand of sparkplugs ( I'll never use Champion brand again !).
Keep us posted,
DannyG

 

[pmuller9]

If I'm reading this correctly, the new carb was tried on a totally different engine with the same results.
Since the problem seems to follow the carburetor one would think that the carb is the problem.

 

[chad]

the switches back'n forth overwhelm my lill pea brain. If the combo is on w/the LOM dizzy - is the SCV carb matched up to it for maintenance of the feedback system? All sorta stuff happens w/o that match. If so (properly matched) I'd get rid of the HEI simply because I'd want it to run well on a simpler system (easier 4 me to dx & less probs due 2 prts failures) B4 adding more complicated components. Just me, some 1 w/only a lill & very basic experience.
Ignition dx will show the problems (don't imagine it can B the cam).
Keep talkin~

 

[bubba22349]

I use a AC Delco HEI ignistion tester (see below link, there are some other brands too) to quickly find out if the ignition is firing properly. Good luck

https://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-AC-Spark-Plu ... mwBanner=1