'77 200 setup

[Anonymous]

This might be a question for the wrong forum but I'd thought I'd give it a shoot.

I need some ideas again. I currently have basically a stock 200 from a '77 something (maverick ?) and I thought I would get some ideas as how the best setup would be to try an keep it stock as possible.

The only mods I have planned are a 2BBL to 1BBL carb. setup. But this might require vaccum change, I really don't know. Right now it's a Carter YF (late sixties) and dual vacuum dizzy (same late sixties) that came with the car. I don't think they knew anything about case numbers or even where to look for them or even cared.

Any ideas would be great! As always, I'm open for suggestions. Right now it's not a daily driver so it's not a problem if it has to sit some more.

But I really want to get it working soon. Soooooo.....anyone?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Stang200:

I'm fairly confused on what it is you're asking for? Is it you're intent to keep it stock for appearance? Simple tune-up and bolt-ons?

The single most cost effective performance enhancement is with ignitionsystem and timing; including increasing the initial advance, adding a hot coil, bigger gap on one step colder plugs, and making sure your plug wires are up to the increased voltage. The '77 distributor is a good one in that it has vacuum and centrifugal advance built in. You could add a Petronix Ignitor to it to eliminate points and increase it's output. The dual advance vacuum system is not bad, just more complicated.

Next, make sure that your carb is in tip-top shape and fine tuned to your system and locale. If you're in doubt, start with a rebuild. The Carter YF is a great place to start, but you could move up to a slightly larger YF from a 70 - '78 250. It should be a direct bolt-on to a '77 head. With either carb, start by tuning for the highest vacuum reading at an idle. Make sure that the linkage is allowing full throttle at the carb when the pedal is all the way to the floor.

And, you could always improve your exhaust system function to reduce back pressure and increase scavanging. At the very least, add a high flow turbo type muffler with at least a 2" inner diameter. A 2" exhaust system, from header pipe to tailpipe would be better.

With improved ignition and exhaust systems you may find that your stock carb jetting, typically too rich, is just about right. So hold off on tuning with rods and jets until you're done with ignition and exhaust improvements.

When you're ready for a valve job. let me know. There's some power there too.

Is that what you were looking for?

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

David:

That's exactly the answers I was looking for to my post. You always seem to have the right thing to say even if the original post sounds confusing. Thanks.

I've been playing with my car now for about three months. I really haven't done much to it except the standard rebuilt. I just thought it might be easier to start with something I know works and is up to factory specifications before I being modifiying it (with I'm not quit there, yet).

I really need to buy your book. I'm not very familiar with vacuum and how it effects the engine performance. This has been a problem I've been working on sense I bought the car this past fall. It just doesn't seem right. I am getting plenty of vacuum. It reads somewhere around 18lbs and doesn't drop below 16 (if I recall correctly) when in gear. But with a ported vacuum switch I just don't think I have the lines plumbed right.

I thought about headers as well. I've been also fallowing AZ's posts and when he might have the Pacemakers ready for purchase. I have purchased two turbo mufflers and piping for a dual exhaust setup when I install the headers. But I want to get the tuning right first before I pursue installing the exhaust system.

The thing that's bothering me the most right now is my carburetor setup. I have installed a Clifford adapter with a late 70's Autolite 2100/2105 carb on top. I don't know how I should plumb the vacuum for this setup. Is it the same as the with the dual vacuum dizzy and the YF I currently have setup? Do I need a new dizzy with the new carb.?Or should I just go with an electronic ignition setup for a '77 200?

-Chris

 

[CZLN6]

HowdyBack Chris:

Did you get the DuraSpark II ignition system with the '77 engine? It's about as good as you can get, IMHO.

I sent you an email on ordering the FPH.

On the vacuum to the distributor, plug the hole closest to the vacuum cannister and route the other to a full vacuum sorce toward the base of the carb. That should get you in the ball park.

Know that headers will change your tune-up. The addition of headers usually requires richening. However, most stock setups are too rich to begin with so, frequently headers end up making the stock settings about right.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

David,

No, it didn't come with the '77 ignition setup. I think the YF and distributor are late sixties models. I say this because the last owner probably did know the engine was from the year 1977 or maybe some other reason. I really don't know.

So as it stands right now, you're saying to plug the retard nipple on the distributor, right? I'll try that first. But I think I really want to go to an electronic ignition, soon.

Thanks again!

-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Sounds like you are quite a way down the road vis-a-vis the carb and ignition upgrade. In my opinion this is the best place to start, although exhaust will need to follow soon.

The Clifford adapter and the 2100. Good choice. Which 2100 do you have (number on float bowl - 1.08, 1.14, 1.21, etc). The reason I ask is that they flow, and will be jetted, differently. No need to start making changes yet, just good info.

Ignition. The 2100 was not intended to support the dual vac dizzy. David's comment regarding elimination of the retard line will get you in the ball park, but with the carb you have chosen a dual advance (68 - 73) dizzy, or the DII, is a better choice. I like the 68 - 73 with the Ignitor II and Flamethrower2 Coil by Pertronix. Easy install. Easy to tune. 45000 volt spark, 12 volt coil, dwell control and later technology.

If you really want the ability to set and forget, you can eliminate the vac advance all-togather. Very easy, and leaves you with an ignition system that is very easy to manage. When you order your dizzy get the one with the 10* mechanical advance limit (they came in 10* to 15* based on spring set used). They are easy to get as long as your parts store has a good handle on their supplier.

I guess what I am saying hear is 1) I like you carb choice for a lot of reasons although I use the 5200 myself. I think these are the two top choices for our cars (streetable fun). 2) Get rid of the dual vac. It will be a constant headache. Buy a stock 68 - 73 Ford dual advance with 10* internal limit and eliminate the vac. You will be glad you did. 3) Go Pertronix. New technology, easy install, reliable set and forget.

When your ready for a header, I really like the look of the OZ import Mike is offering. It wasn't available when I did mine, but I can't complain about the Cliffy.

By the way, according to Jack Clifford, who would know if anyond did, the changes you are making will increase the rear well HP of a solid stock car by 25%. There is no doubt in my mind about this either. What the 25% number doesn't prepare you for is the change in driveability. It is significant.

Good luck. If you need input re: the dizzy thing PM me.


P.S. - be sure to tune the car the way David outlines in the "BOOK".