A few basic upgrade questions from an I6 newbie

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Hi gang. This is my first trek into the world of the I6, so I have some basic ?'s on uping the performance of my '63 Futura's 170 you can help with.

1. what are my options for moving up from the 1V carb?

I've seen the 2V carb adapter from Clifford. What is your experience with it? Is it worth the time and money or does it make little difference?

I've also of course read about the Aussie head swap, but it seems like I've only seen this being done to the 200. Will it work on the 170? Is it mainly done to the 200 because of the 7 main bearing cap vs. 4 cap in the 170 issue?

2. If I can go with the Aussie head, do I also need an Aussie intake or are those remanufactured by someone?

3. if I go the route of the 2V carb adaptor, what is the RIGHT carb to use on the 170 (noting I plan to add electronic ignition)? How about for the 200?

4. If the motor is a 170 (waiting for the car to arrive to determine for sure), I've been told I can drop in a 200 and have it bolt right up with no problems. True? What 200 should I be looking for (year, donor car, etc)? Do the later 200's have the integral intake/head as well?

5. I've been told that you can pretty much rebuild this block (cam, pistons, rings, valves, etc) with the motor in place...true?

6. like I said, I have a '63 Falcon Futura Convertible with the automatic tranny (and we think the 170). What "better" auto tranny is a bolt on and go swap if any (no driveshaft fabbing, bellhousing work, etc)? I've been told the original 2 speed isn't great...true? Also, I'd like to be able to keep the column shift intact and not cut the floor...but will if it's a must.

Thanks again all!
Bryce

PS: the I6 performance handbook is on the way...I'm just impatient and want to start planning now!
 
63DropTop":qg55ck9s said:
I've also of course read about the Aussie head swap, but it seems like I've only seen this being done to the 200. Will it work on the 170? Is it mainly done to the 200 because of the 7 main bearing cap vs. 4 cap in the 170 issue?
Click to expand...
i don't think it's because of anything else other than most people seem to want to hop up a 200 rather than a 170, as for if it will work, it'll bolt right to it, might need some milling to get the compression right though
4. If the motor is a 170 (waiting for the car to arrive to determine for sure), I've been told I can drop in a 200 and have it bolt right up with no problems. True? What 200 should I be looking for (year, donor car, etc)? Do the later 200's have the integral intake/head as well?
Click to expand...
yup, IIRC the only difference between a 200 and a 170 is the stroke length, everything will bolt up fine, look for a 67+ block to get the 7 main bearings, if you stick with a US head you'll want a late model one i believe, 78+ i think, but don't quote me on that
all of the USA small sixes, 144 through 250, have the integral intake, you have to go with an Aussie, or South American (Argentinian?) head to get a removable intake
5. I've been told that you can pretty much rebuild this block (cam, pistons, rings, valves, etc) with the motor in place...true?
Click to expand...
anything is possible, but that might get to be a real PITA
i don't see any reason why you couldn't (other than frame clearance), but i think a better idea would be to pull the engine
6. like I said, I have a '63 Falcon Futura Convertible with the automatic tranny (and we think the 170). What "better" auto tranny is a bolt on and go swap if any (no driveshaft fabbing, bellhousing work, etc)? I've been told the original 2 speed isn't great...true? Also, I'd like to be able to keep the column shift intact and not cut the floor...but will if it's a must.
Click to expand...
if you've got the 2-spd auto, a C4 should bolt up, there have been posts about it, try a search

good luck with it all
 
8)
1: you can use a 2v adaptor to install a weber or holley/weber carb on the log head, machine the log head to use an autolite or holley carb, or go to a larger 1bbl carb from a 240/300 six(there are a few mods needed to do so).

2: the aussie head bolts to all the small six blocks with no problem. for a stock motor, use the stock aussie intake.

3: as for the right 2v carb, any can be used with good success.

4: you can drop a 200 in place of a 170, as long as you use a high mount starter 200. the low mount starter 200's used a different bellhousing bolt pattern so you would also have to swap trannies as well. if you use an lm 200 and tranny, then they bolt in place of the 170 and tranny you have now.

5: you cant really rebuild the engine in the car, but you can replace rings and bearings fairly easily, there are a few tricks though.
 
If I had your car, and I didn't want to swap to a 200 yet, (which you should probably do), I'd swap in an 8" rear end and put some 3.55 gears in it. It would make for a major seat o the pants difference. :D
 
what do I get an 8" rear out of and is it bolt in and go? I'm a weekend warrior mechanic with lots of tools, and a little know-how, but only enough to be dangerous!
 
I would not go to lower rear gearing unless you change to a T-5. My 170 2-speed 3.20 rear wound out pretty bad on the interstate. Changing to a c-4 would give you a lower first and still have the same 1 to 1 ratio on top. The 200 would give you more torque on bottom, they are cheap and a easy fit. If you have to rebuild the 170 anyway, consider the 200/C4 or T5.
 
Yeah, I'm leaning toward the 200/C4 combo. Seems like I could get them both pretty cheaply. I'll have to check the rear ratios when I get her
 
You'll notice a little extra power from the 170 to 200, all else being equal.

Nobody yet reproduces a manifold for the 2V (Aussie) heads, but it will happen sometime. Still, they're quite expensive as whole units.

An old style DIY conversion to two original type carbs will give a lot more potential for performance than a stocker, not be too thirsty or have the synching issues of triple carbies. A mild cam to suit, and realistically, a cruiser like your car will be quite happy in contemporary traffic situations.

Regards, Adam.
 
Thanks Adam. Can you elaborate ont he DIY conversion to two carbs you speak of? THAT sounds like all me!
THANKS!
 
if you can find a maverick between 70-75 they are the only cars ford made that have an eight in FOUR lug rear that will bolt right in. they are about 3/4 of an inch longer so you should be a ok.
 
I'll bet the ratio for your stock rear is either 3.20:1 or 3.50:1 (my 62 has a 3.50:1 ratio 7 1/4 rear), so swapping to an 8" won't help in that department other than a better differential. What's the axle code off your door data plate?

The other 4 lugs rears to search for, that are true bolt ins, come from the 63 V8 Falcon (Comet) or the 64/65 V8 Mustang. They have the tapered axle tubes (unlike the Maverick units) just like the stock rears did. The Maverick tubes were the same diameter all the way to the backing plate and necessitate a different set of shock plates, from the donor vehicle, and new u-bolts. :wink:
 
Twin carbs - you need to make two steel plates for attaching to the manifold, approximately opposite inlets 2&5. These are shaped like the centre carb pad (but do not drill the mounting thread holes yet, just the big centre one), the manfold is ground flat around where they go and they're brazed on generously. Drill through the centre, using the hole in the plate as a pattern, and tidy with a die grinder or Dremel. Any small voids to the ouside may need brazing up. See? Old school, low tech...

Use another carb identical to that you've got, or a pair off two 144s. Check your carb tags for identification. Then you drill and tap for the carb spacers, dream up a rod linkage to connect them to each other and the pedal. The centre, original inlet needs to have a plate capping it closed, which has a "fin" extending down to mostly obstruct the log. No need to seal tight inside the log, just on top.

Does that make sense? You will need to take the head off, but that's about all in terms of getting into the motor, that's required - of course, you can do more... :wink:

Cheers, Adam.
 
quick questions that shouldnt be here, but how would 2 motorcycle carbs work if u got them rigged up, theyre good for gas mileage and if u get the right size performance should be good too i guess. also can u braze aluminum to cast iron or would u just have to make it bolt on with a good seal?
 
:shock: Aluminium to CI - now that would be one for the old, old-timers. There'd be something for it.

Side-draught carbs (like bike ones) will work, this was also done here using twin SU carbs off a British motor. But for simplicity and availability - who wants that tiny carb off an old 144 or 170? That's why they're a good grab - price and function.

Adam.
 
So really what you are saying is just cut a hole in the top of the manifold, weld a flange on, tap some bolt holes, and slap a carb on it!? Low tech is right!

Theoreitcally then, I could make myself a tri-power setup! Three 1V carbs done the same way as you are saying. That way, I woudn' have to rig some "plug" for the original carb intake hole. I imagine linkage would be tricky on either of these mods though wouldn't it?

Has anyone DONE this and have photos (2 or 3 carb hack job)?
 
There was a guy called Lyle Bones who did a DIY triple carb job pretty much like that. I talked about brazing for the mods because it's simple (easy, too), cheap (comparatively) and will fail before anything more expensive fails, usually.

A problem with triple carbs is they can readily end up "out of tune". Most tricarb sets use the middle carb most of the time (serving all six), with the outer carbs opening up progressively. The only ways to get the fuel curve really right with the setup is to use colour-tune spark plugs and/or oxygen sensors in each header pipe. By the time you get that much diagnostic ability under your belt, you're almost halfway to being able to manage an EFI install.

If you look at the engine as being two three cylinder motors in series - the front three and back three, vs the firing order, you'll see 153624 becomes "front-back-front-back-front-back". Now it's easier to visualise one carb always feeding the front, and one for the back.

Linkage is not too hard with the dual because the carbs are synched together. You use adjustable rod to connect them, and just need to figure out your original throttle lever hookup (to keep the proportions of movement right) - every situation is slightly different! Again it'll be a mix and match of carb linkage parts.

I know of one car converted to dual carb, but it's a fair way (100 miles) and realistically, could be six months before I get there.

Cheers, Adam.
 
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