All Small Six i6 250

[jaymac2012]

I'm having a hard time finding remanufactured heads for this model of engine. I know that the head is interchangeable with the 170 and 200, so maybe I'll go that route. I have a broken exhaust flange on the rear part of the engine. Doesn't affect the engine, but makes me wonder if the head is cracked anywhere. Where do you guys get you remanufactured heads. Junkyards ain't what they used to be. And most places stock V8 stuff because they're performance shops. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[bmbm40]

Get a later model flat top log head with casting numbers seen here:

Ford Small Six Specs - 144/170/200/250ci

All Inline Six Ford Small Six Specs - 144/170/200/250ci

fordsix.com

car-part.com might be a source.

 

[PSIG]

Head re-manufacturing companies or the retailers that sell them. Do a search for "cylinder head remanufacturing" and similar terms. I've found a variety of I6 heads available or orderable in the recent past. Watch for price versus shipping costs to find the best deals. Total costs are usually lower than local rebuilding services, unless you are doing something special to it. Good Luck!

 

[bmbm40]

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...rdparts&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197

1970 FORD 170/200CI STRAIGHT / INLINE I 6 CYLINDER HEAD



THIS IS AN ORIGINAL USED FORD CYLINDER HEAD.



PART: D0OE-6090-A



DATE CODE: 1J7

 

[PSIG]

That's a lot for a used core. I'd keep looking.
Example '69-76 rebuilt and ready-to-run: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vre-2f65/make/ford
In this example, it's $402 plus $105 core - but free shipping, so $507 total with warranty, vs $642 for the FleaBay head that isn't rebuilt.
That same company supplies many versions of L6 heads, and even complete 250/4.1L engines - and that's just one outfit. Yep, I'd keep looking.

 

[jaymac2012]

Yeah, it's starting to become a wait and see game with this I6. I found 12 on car-part.com -- in Fresno. 1600 miles is a bit too far for a casual trip. I've thought about buying a crapped 200ci for $300 and just yanking the head. Puts me at almost $600 for the rebuild since a local shop quoted me $200-300 for that service.

 

[TrickSix]

Also, that eBay head is for a 170. It has smaller combustion chambers and, from some reports I have read, smaller ports. Smaller chanbers isn't always a bad thing, that means less milling to get the CR up for most applications. But I don't know if it might not be the best match for a 250. Someone here will.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, cracked ears are pretty common. The head is probably OK, but if you cannot fix the exhaust leak that is the issue. Early heads have smaller carb openings and smaller combustion chambers, so most guys want the later heads, and mill them to reduce the combustion chamber size. Later heads came on 200 and 250s. Good luck

 

[drag-200stang]

Also, that eBay head is for a 170. It has smaller combustion chambers and, from some reports I have read, smaller ports. Smaller chanbers isn't always a bad thing, that means less milling to get the CR up for most applications. But I don't know if it might not be the best match for a 250. Someone here will.

If the 170 is before about C9 the ports are small, if the 170 head is DO the ports are the same size as the 200/250. It is good on a 250 if you want high compression and run high octane fuel.
The DO 170 is a good head to run tri power because of the flat top. Faron ran 14.40 on his 250 with the 170 DO head and I went 14.22 with my 200. So far that head have been the fastest NA US iron head, not to say that the hex head could be faster, no one has yet to do it.

 

[jaymac2012]

I'm not looking for performance on any of this. It's a convertible, so I'm not looking to drive fast except on the freeway. This engine was pretty decent on gas mileage when I drove it in high school. Don't really feel like having to put premium gas if I can avoid it. But that may be necessary since I know these older engines require a little more comfort.

Any solutions for the broken ear? I didn't want to buy a new head originally, but I also don't want to keep smelling the combustion straight out of the cylinder for... reasons.

 

[jaymac2012]

Shop in town said they can fix the broken ears. We'll see, I guess. Fixed ear and remanufacture for $400.

 

[jaymac2012]

Has anybody seen this type of alternator bracket before? It came off the 250.

 

[jaymac2012]

Error post

 

[bmbm40]

No but a 250 alt bracket will not attach to a 200 if that is what you intend. At least I could not use my 200 alt bracket on my 250 when I was upgrading. I had to find a 250 alt bracket.

 

[jaymac2012]

Had a question about the camshaft if anybody knows how to give me the quick and dirty: I want a completely stock cam for my 250. The camshaft that I currently have has an interesting lope to it that runs super quiet at high rpms, but sound like it's going to die at idle (exaggeration). It looks a 260H. Don't know if that's a performance profile or not. Maybe just a bad carb setting. I don't remember much else about it since I hadn't driven it since high school. Can someone let me know if this 260H-10 is stock or not?

 

[drag-200stang]

No it is not stock, it is a Comp Cams 260 degree hydraulic high energy cam. It will not idle like a stock cam. But will give good torque and power.

 

[jaymac2012]

Okay. I don't really need either of those things. It's a convertible. I'll have to look for a stock one. I'm just wondering if you can even find stock stuff anymore that's not pitted or abused. Found one on eBay listed as stock but I don't necessarily trust eBay implicitly. Maybe I should keep the current cam so that I can drive pretty well at freeway speeds. I remember that it was really good at that.

My dad always thought this was a boat motor. Wonder if that could be true with this cam.

 

[Frank]

Okay. I don't really need either of those things. It's a convertible. I'll have to look for a stock one. I'm just wondering if you can even find stock stuff anymore that's not pitted or abused. Found one on eBay listed as stock but I don't necessarily trust eBay implicitly. Maybe I should keep the current cam so that I can drive pretty well at freeway speeds. I remember that it was really good at that.

My dad always thought this was a boat motor. Wonder if that could be true with this cam.

Melling is good quality, USA made. Enginetech is made in Brazil .Everything I've gotten from either of them has been good quality and fit.

1970 FORD MAVERICK 4.1L 250cid L6 Camshaft | Shop Now at RockAuto

Engine Parts and More for Your 1970 FORD MAVERICK at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[jaymac2012]

Thanks for the suggestion. I may be super needy here, but does anyone have a picture of the following bracket actually mounted on the car? Having a hard time finding a picture of it.

 

[jaymac2012]

Okay, so I did find something about this bracket. I'll post it here just as information. Found it on Vintage Mustang site. I believe this is the same bracket.