A
Anonymous
Guest
So this post has a bunch of stuff, I could have posted 8 different topics, but I am going all in one.
It is time for an update on the progress, because today there was much!
So I installed the Mustang Steve Power Booster and Cable Quadrant setup...
MUCH BETTER... the clutch is smooth and the brakes are amazing... (why did I wait soo long to install power brakes...) The cable quadrant has a much smoother action than the RMP kit... I think the pulling vs. pushing has a lot to do with it... also this cable is half the length.. the clutch is still tight, but a new RAM clutch will be for a while... however it feels THREE times better than before. NOT the easiest of installs, lots of bending and drilling, tight spaces... but it went as well as I could have hoped. and I had to bail on the adjustable stop it would not fit between the cowl lip and the brake booster... almost but not quite?
On the engine front, I stripped it down to basics... plugged all the vacume ports and set the timing and curb idle and air/fuel ratio... I got down to idle at 800, timing at 15degrees BTDC, and one complete turn out on each mixture screw. It idles pretty nice there... still a little lopey, and only about 14 inches of vacume, but no shakes and no vibrations like before, and the brake booster works OK, but I am adding a vacume canister to help out... on hard slams of the brake the engine dives a little, not much... I ended up pulling it up to idle at 900 just to smooth it out.
One thing I found was the choke was adjusted really poorly... with the choke closed all the way the fast idle cam had me at 1600, but that was with the choke all the way closed... the problem was as I opened the choke, the cam completely dissengages before the choke even starts to open... I adjusted the idle screw in until a slightly cracked choke plate gave me 1400 rpms... this puts the completely closed position of the cam in a dangerous rpm range of 2400 if you fire it closed all the way... I want to change the relationship of the choke plate and not the idle cam but there is no way I can find on the 2300 to adjust the choke plate angle with the cam completely closed? if anyone has any thoughts it would be appreciated.. I would like to set it so closed completely is just right for a cold start... right now that is about half way closed..
Here are my other questions and troubles listed out...
1. I cannot get the T5 into reverse sometimes... it just grinds... others it slides in no problems? my thought is I still need to tighten the clutch, I have about 1/2" travel before it begins to press the fingers... it releases a little higher now than before, but I think I can open it up more? if that does not solve the problem? not sure? thoughts?
2. Still seems like I should have more power... it faltens out around 2200-2600 rpms... then kicks again over 3000... second gear is the worst. Maybe I am a little too lean on the mix... I am going to open out 1/2 turn more to 1 1/2 turns and see whay happens...?
3. I have an unusual problem? something in the rear passenger side is making a terrible bang when I go over moderate bumps... it almost feels like the wheel is loose or the shock is bound? the drivers side is fine, front has no trouble... but the passenger rear has something a miss? if the exhaust was hitting on a bump that might feel like this? it sounds almost like the hubcap is loose or something? I am going to check over everything carefully in the morning and see?
All in all I am much closer to a place now where I can start to drive it every day..
Also the smoke on shifts was not present today after I got the timing and idle setup, maybe that was a rich mixture... or the rings are starting to seat better... but I only drove a short distance... tomorrow I am driving out for a longer run... see what happens then.
It is time for an update on the progress, because today there was much!
So I installed the Mustang Steve Power Booster and Cable Quadrant setup...
MUCH BETTER... the clutch is smooth and the brakes are amazing... (why did I wait soo long to install power brakes...) The cable quadrant has a much smoother action than the RMP kit... I think the pulling vs. pushing has a lot to do with it... also this cable is half the length.. the clutch is still tight, but a new RAM clutch will be for a while... however it feels THREE times better than before. NOT the easiest of installs, lots of bending and drilling, tight spaces... but it went as well as I could have hoped. and I had to bail on the adjustable stop it would not fit between the cowl lip and the brake booster... almost but not quite?
On the engine front, I stripped it down to basics... plugged all the vacume ports and set the timing and curb idle and air/fuel ratio... I got down to idle at 800, timing at 15degrees BTDC, and one complete turn out on each mixture screw. It idles pretty nice there... still a little lopey, and only about 14 inches of vacume, but no shakes and no vibrations like before, and the brake booster works OK, but I am adding a vacume canister to help out... on hard slams of the brake the engine dives a little, not much... I ended up pulling it up to idle at 900 just to smooth it out.
One thing I found was the choke was adjusted really poorly... with the choke closed all the way the fast idle cam had me at 1600, but that was with the choke all the way closed... the problem was as I opened the choke, the cam completely dissengages before the choke even starts to open... I adjusted the idle screw in until a slightly cracked choke plate gave me 1400 rpms... this puts the completely closed position of the cam in a dangerous rpm range of 2400 if you fire it closed all the way... I want to change the relationship of the choke plate and not the idle cam but there is no way I can find on the 2300 to adjust the choke plate angle with the cam completely closed? if anyone has any thoughts it would be appreciated.. I would like to set it so closed completely is just right for a cold start... right now that is about half way closed..
Here are my other questions and troubles listed out...
1. I cannot get the T5 into reverse sometimes... it just grinds... others it slides in no problems? my thought is I still need to tighten the clutch, I have about 1/2" travel before it begins to press the fingers... it releases a little higher now than before, but I think I can open it up more? if that does not solve the problem? not sure? thoughts?
2. Still seems like I should have more power... it faltens out around 2200-2600 rpms... then kicks again over 3000... second gear is the worst. Maybe I am a little too lean on the mix... I am going to open out 1/2 turn more to 1 1/2 turns and see whay happens...?
3. I have an unusual problem? something in the rear passenger side is making a terrible bang when I go over moderate bumps... it almost feels like the wheel is loose or the shock is bound? the drivers side is fine, front has no trouble... but the passenger rear has something a miss? if the exhaust was hitting on a bump that might feel like this? it sounds almost like the hubcap is loose or something? I am going to check over everything carefully in the morning and see?
All in all I am much closer to a place now where I can start to drive it every day..
Also the smoke on shifts was not present today after I got the timing and idle setup, maybe that was a rich mixture... or the rings are starting to seat better... but I only drove a short distance... tomorrow I am driving out for a longer run... see what happens then.